I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    I think part of my problem is I took a friend along for an "unbiased" opinion, but sadly, his favorite that I tried on was a pair of Pure Blue Japans that in my mind were entirely too slim. Talking this out a bit here and letting the fact that the friend I took leans entirely too far towards the skinny jean percolate a bit is leaving me leaning towards the Onis. I want a classic straight leg jean rather than something that's going to look stylish now and not a year from now. The Onis fit was awesome in the waist and rise. I personally had no real issue with the leg width. The texture of the denim was awesome. Thanks again for the response. The back and forth on this is getting me clearer on what it is I want exactly.
    My denim buying has definitely leaned towards the super-slim for a while too, and I'm finally letting that go, in favor of more classic slim fits. For exactly the same reasons. I'll listen to others opinions to a point, for better or worse. Then I know I have to trust my gut, which is slightly more conservative. I just don't like investing time and money into jeans I'm dissatisfied with in six months. Some BiG jeans you may like that I've recently decided have become my favorites are the Warehouse DWorks 660s, Skull 5507, Momotaro 0701. Try them if they're in stock. Also have the Samurai S003 Yamato limited ed. which are beyond amazing. Try them on if they have them in your size. Slim, but relaxed enough.
     


  2. Whiskey

    Whiskey Senior member

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    Nope. Only true raw jeans Levis makes are the 501 stf. (and their top-tier LVC stuff)

    Thanks for clearing things up. I E-mailed http://www.jeans-online.pl/product_i...it-black-shine and they said they were raw. Maybe something lost in translation.
     


  3. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    Thanks for clearing things up. I E-mailed http://www.jeans-online.pl/product_i...it-black-shine and they said they were raw. Maybe something lost in translation.

    In the strictest sense, raw means the jeans have not been pre-shrunk/seen water (even with a really dark 'raw' color), don't have a 'rinsed' or 'washed' finish, aren't distressed, etc.

    Levis typically avoids real raw shrink-to-fit denim at that price point. Their premium LVC stuff is real raw.

    If you're in the market for real raw jeans and can spend up to $200 (worth it), see this link. otherwise, GAP, Jcrew make very respectable real raw denim jeans. So do some other mall brands.

    http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=157881
     


  4. zzzzzard

    zzzzzard Active Member

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    NEVER MIND, found it on mynudies.
     


  5. Whiskey

    Whiskey Senior member

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    In the strictest sense, raw means the jeans have not been pre-shrunk/seen water (even with a really dark 'raw' color), don't have a 'rinsed' or 'washed' finish, aren't distressed, etc.

    Levis typically avoids real raw shrink-to-fit denim at that price point. Their premium LVC stuff is real raw.

    If you're in the market for real raw jeans and can spend up to $200 (worth it), see this link. otherwise, GAP, Jcrew make very respectable real raw denim jeans. So do some other mall brands.

    http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=157881


    Cool. Thanks mylngard.
     


  6. Jakmat

    Jakmat Member

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    A jean question, I recently bought these, and I'm unsure on the fit. They're the right leg length/waist but they do feel somewhat tight, but a size up is far too baggy.

    I'm also concerned are the legs wrong and should I opt for a slim fit?



    Sorry about the colour the camera screwed up, they look much nicer in person.
     


  7. danger

    danger Member

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    Hey guys, I'm new to quality denim but I started riding a motorcycle this year and figure I can splurge on better made jeans. I'm a 28x28 leg, looking for some nice, strong denim that will fit right. I know APC and Nudie have some smaller waists, but I was worrying about the inseams. Can I just Hem them if they are too long? Any suggestions appreciated. I ride a motorcycle most days and the tougher the jeans, the better!
     


  8. danger

    danger Member

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    Hey guys, I'm new to quality denim, but I started riding a motorcycle this year so I figure I need to get better jeans. I'm a 28x28 leg, looking for some tough, well made denim that will fit right. I know APC and Nudie have some smaller waists(really diggin the raw indigo Petit Standard), but I was worrying about the 34" inseams. Can I just hot soak them and Hem them if they are too long? Any suggestions appreciated. I ride my bike most days and the tougher the jeans, the better!
     


  9. whitekimchee

    whitekimchee Well-Known Member

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    So this is my first time posting to this forum so please forgive me if I'm making a mistake posting my question here.

    I've been rocking Levi's capital E matchsticks since they started coming out and have noticed a discrepancy in the materials used in the new and old fits/washes.

    I.e. I purchased a pair of matchsticks in the Dark Worn wash more than a couple years ago and they were 100% cotton. However, I recently bought the same wash and i was surprised (and tad disappointed) to find that they are 98% cotton and 2% elastane. I copped them anyway, got them hemmed and rock them. They do feel a bit more comfortable and flexible due to elastane.

    What I do wanna know is why did Levi's bother changing the materials used and will it stretch out significantly after a year or two? I don't wash my jeans and I get them dry cleaned maybe a max of 3 or 4 times a year (yeah i kno sounds nasty but I don't wanna compromise the integrity of the jeans by washing them too much). I also don't understand why the leg openings vary in size. I purchased a pair of dolphin rinse matchsticks and found that they pretty much have the same specs as the dark worns. However, other washes that I have a slightly larger leg opening which irks me.
     


  10. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    A jean question, I recently bought these, and I'm unsure on the fit. They're the right leg length/waist but they do feel somewhat tight, but a size up is far too baggy. I'm also concerned are the legs wrong and should I opt for a slim fit?
    That's nice looking denim. My taste runs to slimmer fits, but those look okay on you. Don't upsize, let those stretch out. Also, if you haven't soaked yet, do now. Then wear them for a while. The true nature of a fit will take a week or two to reveal itself. Never pass final judgement on the fit of raw jeans when they're new. Unless you have some time in a few pairs.
    Hey guys, I'm new to quality denim but I started riding a motorcycle this year and figure I can splurge on better made jeans. I'm a 28x28 leg, looking for some nice, strong denim that will fit right. I know APC and Nudie have some smaller waists, but I was worrying about the inseams. Can I just Hem them if they are too long? Any suggestions appreciated. I ride a motorcycle most days and the tougher the jeans, the better!
    As a fellow rider (Ducs/Triumphs), I'd say APC are as good as any raw denim for riding. APC is about 14oz denim. Thicker denim (15-21 oz) will obviously give slightly better protection. As a new rider keep in mind that denim's abrasion resistance is on the level of tissue paper if you go down over 20mph. Also keep in mind that all raw denim will be slightly uncomfortable in the first few weeks, and that may be exaggerated around the knees and hips in a riding position (depends on bike of course). Suggest not cuffing when riding a motorbike. Cuff will catch on rearsets and shift/brake levers. All raw jean inseams are sized with the intention that most will be hemmed. Soak those in warm/hot water to take care of shrink then send to SelfEdge or Blue in Green for a proper chainstitch hem job, or to a local tailor to match the non-chainstitch hem you have. Trust me on the soak part. If you don't soak first, allow an inch for the shrinkage when you hem.
     


  11. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    So this is my first time posting to this forum so please forgive me if I'm making a mistake posting my question here.

    I've been rocking Levi's capital E matchsticks since they started coming out and have noticed a discrepancy in the materials used in the new and old fits/washes.

    I.e. I purchased a pair of matchsticks in the Dark Worn wash more than a couple years ago and they were 100% cotton. However, I recently bought the same wash and i was surprised (and tad disappointed) to find that they are 98% cotton and 2% elastane. I copped them anyway, got them hemmed and rock them. They do feel a bit more comfortable and flexible due to elastane.
    .


    You pretty much answered your question. Those jeans are designed to be worn skin-tight and not washed often to capitalize on the 'raw' jeans/no wash trend.

    Raw all-cotton jeans are stiff and uncomfortable to many, and they stretch like crazy when worn that tight. Elastine/lycra solves both problems.

    That fabric composition change is clearly due to Levis getting lots of complaints.
     


  12. Jakmat

    Jakmat Member

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    That's nice looking denim. My taste runs to slimmer fits, but those look okay on you. Don't upsize, let those stretch out. Also, if you haven't soaked yet, do now. Then wear them for a while. The true nature of a fit will take a week or two to reveal itself.

    Never pass final judgement on the fit of raw jeans when they're new. Unless you have some time in a few pairs.



    As a fellow rider (Ducs/Triumphs), I'd say APC are as good as any raw denim for riding. APC is about 14oz denim. Thicker denim (15-21 oz) will obviously give slightly better protection. As a new rider keep in mind that denim's abrasion resistance is on the level of tissue paper if you go down over 20mph.

    Also keep in mind that all raw denim will be slightly uncomfortable in the first few weeks, and that may be exaggerated around the knees and hips in a riding position (depends on bike of course).

    Suggest not cuffing when riding a motorbike. Cuff will catch on rearsets and shift/brake levers.

    All raw jean inseams are sized with the intention that most will be hemmed. Soak those in warm/hot water to take care of shrink then send to SelfEdge or Blue in Green for a proper chainstitch hem job, or to a local tailor to match the non-chainstitch hem you have.

    Trust me on the soak part. If you don't soak first, allow an inch for the shrinkage when you hem.


    By soaking do you mean just leaving them in a bath of hot water over night, then wearing them while wet to stretch out?
     


  13. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    By soaking do you mean just leaving them in a bath of hot water over night, then wearing them while wet to stretch out?

    1/2 hour to an hour hot soak in the bath. Then hang them until dry. APC don't shrink very much, so no need for anything drastic like wearing them wet, as you might with real shrink-to-fit jeans.

    You'll see about 1/2" waist shrink and 1/2" - 1" in the inseam.
     


  14. whitekimchee

    whitekimchee Well-Known Member

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    I see but since these newer matchsticks have elastane, would they stretch out more as opposed to the 100% cotton ones? I've only owned Levi's that were 100% cotton so I'm wary of anything that says "stretch."
     


  15. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    I see but since these newer matchsticks have elastane, would they stretch out more as opposed to the 100% cotton ones? I've only owned Levi's that were 100% cotton so I'm wary of anything that says "stretch."

    The elastene keeps the fabric more elastic and they'll retain their shape longer without sagging/stretch.

    Blending synthetic stretch fibers like lycra with wool or cotton is a relatively new technology. Tough to know how those will wear. I agree with being wary. if it was that good, it'd be everywhere, right? I think Levis had to compromise slightly on the fabric blend for that type of fit. I wouldn't sweat it.
     


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