I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. GraphicNovelty

    GraphicNovelty Senior member

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    Are all the jeans labeled "rigid" on the levi's website raw? Or are the STF's the only raw ones?
     


  2. roadvirusss

    roadvirusss New Member

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    total noob here...

    I've recently decided to start putting some effort into the way I dress, but I've spent the first couple decades of my life ignoring what I wear and it shows. My budget doesn't allow for too many huge investments, but where should I start looking for jeans? I'm a slim guy - 5'11" 155, and I usually wear 30's around the waist. I've got a pair of Express slimfit straightleg which have served me well (I might get laughed at for these here...) - what's the next step?
     


  3. noneshallpass

    noneshallpass Well-Known Member

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    total noob here... I've recently decided to start putting some effort into the way I dress, but I've spent the first couple decades of my life ignoring what I wear and it shows. My budget doesn't allow for too many huge investments, but where should I start looking for jeans? I'm a slim guy - 5'11" 155, and I usually wear 30's around the waist. I've got a pair of Express slimfit straightleg which have served me well (I might get laughed at for these here...) - what's the next step?
    I would try a shot at soaking a pair of Levi's 501 STFs. Can get for around 35 bucks usually.
     


  4. c00kz

    c00kz Senior member

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    Are all the jeans labeled "rigid" on the levi's website raw? Or are the STF's the only raw ones?

    Rigid's neither raw nor stf. Usually is "tumbled rigid" which means they look like "rigid" (raw) jeans, unless I'm wrong.
     


  5. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    Where can I buy Diore Homme raw denim? 19 or 21cm?
    At a Dior Homme boutique, Louisaviaroma, Browns, and Diabro
    Are all the jeans labeled "rigid" on the levi's website raw? Or are the STF's the only raw ones?
    Pretty sure the rigid jeans are washed, ie stiffer texture (not raw stiff) but won't really fade
     


  6. c00kz

    c00kz Senior member

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    Quick question: when denimheads use the term "cast", are they referring to the hue of the sheen which the denim posesses in light?
     


  7. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    Yes, just color (can mean overdyed a color or just dyed a color). Greencast = blue jeans with a slight green tint (blue-green all the way on up to teal). Greycast = blue/black jeans with a grey tint. etc.
     


  8. c00kz

    c00kz Senior member

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    Thanks. And besides just speaking to people, there's no way to search for particular combos? Color, origin, etc of the threads, etc?
     


  9. ranker

    ranker Senior member

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    From one MCer to another:

    I don't know from quality. I don't think that wear or longevity come into the discussion with jeans. I know that this is the important distinction: APC jeans are just jeans. They make one fabric, no finishes, five fits. Once you buy them, you get to finish them, because they're raw (unwashed). Diesel styles their jeans, so you buy them how THEY want them. There isn't an analogue to tailored clothing, because the wear process over time is what makes jeans unique, but with APC you own that process from start to finish, and with Diesel you don't.

    APC are cheap and reliable raw jeans. Expect to pay $150 or so for a pair. Look at the APC thread here for sizing information. My guess is that you'll buy a 28" waist. You had better know what your thigh, knee and ankle measurements are too - perhaps the NS won't fit you.

    Selvage is a way of denoting that the jeans were made of a higher quality fabric. It's exactly like pickstitching - a sign to those who'll recognize it that you know what you're doing when you buy jeans.


    Thanks so much for the informative reply. If APC are cheap, what is the Isaia/Kiton/Oxxford of raw jeans? I'm the type of guy that likes to get things right the first time. I'd like to avoid purchasing a pair of jeans only to realize I wanted something that was better within a few days (like when most of us MC'ers quickly escalated our taste in suiting).

    I'd like to add although APC are the introductory raw jean you might want to browse another simple brand or two if you feel there's anything about APC which puts you off. They're notorious for stretch (multiple sizes) and I personally do not think they age well. I don't expect you to anticipate wearing your jeans down to death but I see much more unattractive, washed out pairs of worn APC than I do attractive and brilliant ones.

    Pre-styled denim does fade but inconsistantly with the stylings they came with. Pretty unattractive. It's like getting gouges on "distressed leather" (polyurethane) which is out of place and unnatural.

    Selvedge is argued over a lot because exceptions exist on either side but I think they look much more polished and clean than other ways of connecting fabric.


    Thanks for the explanation as well. What type of raw jeans would u recommend that are better than APC?
     


  10. max_r

    max_r Senior member

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    Rigid's neither raw nor stf. Usually is "tumbled rigid" which means they look like "rigid" (raw) jeans, unless I'm wrong.

    Pretty sure the rigid jeans are washed, ie stiffer texture (not raw stiff) but won't really fade

    i got the 514 "tumbled rigid" a while back, and they were kinda stiff, but softer than any other raw denim i've felt. I think they were softer than my 501 STF's. though i dont think they were washed because they look raw and the tag was still clean (not crupled or anything like the tags on the washed levis)
     


  11. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    Thanks. And besides just speaking to people, there's no way to search for particular combos? Color, origin, etc of the threads, etc?
    Well most of the denim here is milled in Japan, the ones that are milled in America are probably about 90% Cone Denim (White Oak). Color, generally high-quality jeans that we talk about are indigo dyed, either natural indigo (made from the plant) or synthetic indigo (chemically the same thing, slightly less expensive to produce) but the dyeing method is far more important. Most are hank (rope) dyed, the really expensive ones are hand-dyed, the more dips in indigo, the darker the denim. As for the cotton, there's generally unspecified, Texas (short, lots of slub), and Zimbabwe (long fibres, smooth denim).
     


  12. c00kz

    c00kz Senior member

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    "Better" is a pretty loose term. I'm going to make a huge ignorant blanket generalization and say denim's not as linear as MC in terms of "better"..

    Well APC are standard indigo with contrast stitching.. The orange stitching would prevent me from coupling it with a sportcoat or anything like that. Sizing is also a nightmare because of stretch and you might disagree with the fits they offer. I would also like denim which remained dark for longer than APC and with a tighter weave. I do like unisex jeans with a trim, straight cut which is APC. Are you looking for a denim "pant" which fits and wears like slacks or a pair of jeans? Latter offers more options.


    I owned tumbled rigid as well and don't remember seeing the tag especially. Could the patch be applied after the pant is treated? In any case if the color is right at all, I guess "tumbled" was the proces for softness? I always got the feeling they would bleed to death.
     


  13. connor

    connor Senior member

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    hey MC guy check out Spurr that seems to be a good one for you
     


  14. ivan k

    ivan k Senior member

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  15. Spicemeister

    Spicemeister Member

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