I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

[mlyngard]

Originally Posted by KitAkira

I would think that adding any mordants or the like would be unnecessary since all you're doing is an overdye/overcast so you don't really need nor want the dye to penetrate and form a strong bond.

I think you're right.

 

[bcx]

I guess I can give it a shot without the sodium carbonate. I could always add it during a later attempt if need be.

 

[greens11]

I'm looking to buy a few pairs of Levi's. I'm interested in buying a pair of Imprints as a quick fading fun little project. How would you recommend I go about sizing them? If my true waist is 34.5ish, should I size down to a 34 or size up to a 36? I've read that the waist might shrink after washing and I'm afraid of that happening. I've boughten one too many pairs that I wear and love, wash and then they don't fit anymore. I'm also afraid that if I get the 36, they will be too baggy on my legs. I'm looking for a slim straight, which is exactly what the 514 should technically offer.

Also, is anyone familiar with Levi's Capital E Hesher Bootcut? I'm debating between a prewash or the rigid and unsure which to go with. I'm also afraid of the sizing on this as well. If I get a 34, will they stretch out to fit me more comfortably or should I go with the 36? Lastly, any recommendations on whether I should get the rigid or the prewash?

Thanks in advance!

 

[mgstl]

PRPS Dry Denim Question - P37 P19 B01 - Black Dry Denim Selvage

Acquired these some time ago through a Bluefly Clearance. I am finally going to start breaking them in however I need some advice relative to how to go about tailoring the length. I have searched the forums trying to determine if the denim is sanforized (if this has been posted in an old thread I missed many apologies in advance) but still unsure.

My largest concern is that I will hem them and after their first wash sometime down the road they will shrink. I know this shouldn't be a huge concern if they are sanforized. Also, would it make sense to do a single hot or cold soak and air dry, even if they are sanforized, to work out any residual shrinkage before taking to the tailor?

I linked a photo if it helps determine the denim's characteristics in addition to the model number above.

Thanks for your advice in advance.

 

[Julian84]

Originally Posted by greens11

I'm looking to buy a few pairs of Levi's. I'm interested in buying a pair of Imprints as a quick fading fun little project. How would you recommend I go about sizing them? If my true waist is 34.5ish, should I size down to a 34 or size up to a 36? I've read that the waist might shrink after washing and I'm afraid of that happening. I've boughten one too many pairs that I wear and love, wash and then they don't fit anymore. I'm also afraid that if I get the 36, they will be too baggy on my legs. I'm looking for a slim straight, which is exactly what the 514 should technically offer.

Also, is anyone familiar with Levi's Capital E Hesher Bootcut? I'm debating between a prewash or the rigid and unsure which to go with. I'm also afraid of the sizing on this as well. If I get a 34, will they stretch out to fit me more comfortably or should I go with the 36? Lastly, any recommendations on whether I should get the rigid or the prewash?

Thanks in advance!



My 32 waist imprints measured 32 1/2 inches before wearing, and have stretched out to about 33 1/2 after wearing them for about 2 months. Any shrinkage that you get will just end up stretching out again.

 

[joel_954]

Can someone with RB11's in the midweight denim tell me the rn# on the inside of the jeans?

Can someone tell much stretching to expect in the waist / top block? Should a person size down one or go TTS?

 

[mlyngard]

Originally Posted by mgstl

PRPS Dry Denim Question - P37 P19 B01 - Black Dry Denim Selvage

My largest concern is that I will hem them and after their first wash sometime down the road they will shrink. I know this shouldn’t be a huge concern if they are sanforized. Also, would it make sense to do a single hot or cold soak and air dry, even if they are sanforized, to work out any residual shrinkage before taking to the tailor?

in advance.

Always hot soak jeans before wear, sanforized or not. You'll get what's coming to you if you don't.

Hot soaking does nothing bad and completely improves all raw denim. Regardless of taking care of shrink, which is key, it totally awakens the real character of the fabric.

Note: I'm not talking about washing in the machine. And even then, some of the best jeans I've seen get regular machine washes.

 

[RedLantern]

Rec for jawnz with similar cut to APC Rescue but with slightly narrower leg opening?

 

[mlyngard]

Originally Posted by RedLantern

Rec for jawnz with similar cut to APC Rescue but with slightly narrower leg opening?

What's yer price range? What denim texture do you want?

3Sixteen. KMW 1950s and 1980s.

Many Samurai. Studio D'Artisan. Denime. Most straight-leg repro cuts, like ones by Flat Head, Sugar Cane.

If you want spendy, check out the Evisu 2000, Lot #1. Repro 1966 cut with a narrow leg opening but fuller thigh. Mid-rise too. I've never worn better denim with nicer details in my life.

http://blueingreensoho.com/site/inde...mart&Itemid=28

 

[bcx]

Originally Posted by RedLantern

Rec for jawnz with similar cut to APC Rescue but with slightly narrower leg opening?

Nudie Average Joes?

 

[RedLantern]

Originally Posted by mlyngard

What's yer price range? What denim texture do you want?

3Sixteen. KMW 1950s and 1980s.

Many Samurai. Studio D'Artisan. Denime. Most straight-leg repro cuts, like ones by Flat Head, Sugar Cane.

If you want spendy, check out the Evisu 2000, Lot #1. Repro 1966 cut with a narrow leg opening but fuller thigh. Mid-rise too. I've never worn better denim with nicer details in my life.

http://blueingreensoho.com/site/inde...mart&Itemid=28

Thanks! I'm not sure about price range/ denim texture. The APCs are the first raw denim I have owned, and I really like them. I just see myself wanting to try something different at some point. I have taken a look at the KMW 1950s but it looks like the thigh is smaller (I need something approaching 14inches).

 

[mgstl]

Originally Posted by mlyngard

Always hot soak jeans before wear, sanforized or not. You'll get what's coming to you if you don't.

Hot soaking does nothing bad and completely improves all raw denim. Regardless of taking care of shrink, which is key, it totally awakens the real character of the fabric.

Note: I'm not talking about washing in the machine. And even then, some of the best jeans I've seen get regular machine washes.

Thank you for the direction on the hot soak regardless how the denim was treated. So does the hot soak eliminate the importance of determining if the denim is sanfordized? Just trying to nail down the shrinkage factor relative to if it has been sanfordizd or not (still unsure and if anyone knows about the PRPS - P37 P19 B01 it would be appreciated).

So after a non-sanfordized jean has gone through a hot soak will the majority of the shrinkage be realized or is there additional that should still be accounted for? If they are sanfordized is the hot soak primarily just for fabric conditioning?

Thanks again for the feedback.

 

[mlyngard]

Originally Posted by mgstl

Thank you for the direction on the hot soak regardless how the denim was treated. So does the hot soak eliminate the importance of determining if the denim is sanfordized? Just trying to nail down the shrinkage factor relative to if it has been sanfordizd or not (still unsure and if anyone knows about the PRPS - P37 P19 B01 it would be appreciated).

So after a non-sanfordized jean has gone through a hot soak will the majority of the shrinkage be realized or is there additional that should still be accounted for? If they are sanfordized is the hot soak primarily just for fabric conditioning?

Thanks again for the feedback.

I can't answer you on the PPRS shrink rate, but there's only one way to tell...

Sanforized denim is essentially pre-shrunk denim. Unsanforized raws are your standard shrink-to-fit deal (which I sense you know already).

Both types will shrink, most noticeably in the inseam. In the waist: Expect 2" for non-sanforised, and anywhere from .25" - 1" for sanforized. Inseam shrink can vary from .5"-2" for unsanforized to 3-4" for stf.

Generally, two hot soaks and hang-dries will get you the full shrink. Most will happen in the first 15-30 minutes of the first hot soak. A little bit the second. Once shrunk, you can hem, wash, etc, knowing the fit you start with will remain (excluding stretch).

Another factor for soaking besides shrink is getting rid of excess sizing/starch. Really, you don't need much or any starch to get crisp fades if the fit is right and denim is good. Most high-contrast fades come from wearing for extended periods between washes. This allows wear areas to fade faster because the indigo isn't being washed out from the rest of the jean.

Finally, soaking will soften the jeans, tighten the weave, and basically shrink it to the true fit that was intended.

As for conditioning, all denim, in my opinion has a 'secret' personality which really only reveals itself once it's seen water. This you'll see once you've owned some raws and been down that path. You can only take my word for it now, but I swear it's true.

 

[mlyngard]

Originally Posted by RedLantern

Thanks! I'm not sure about price range/ denim texture. The APCs are the first raw denim I have owned, and I really like them. I just see myself wanting to try something different at some point. I have taken a look at the KMW 1950s but it looks like the thigh is smaller (I need something approaching 14inches).

You'll need more fit guidance from the pros at the shops, but in my opinion, you want to be looking for a 'repro' cut, ideally anything based on the 1966 or 1940s-50s cuts.

I doubt you'll find anything with a 14" thigh post-shrink, unless your waist is really big. If you have 22" thighs or slightly bigger, a true straight leg with taper or repro fit should be fine.

Keep in mind that the 'thigh' measurement on size charts can be taken from many places, and is not a real determiner of the full thigh fit, or of the actual fit of the jeans.

Keep in mind too that a 1/2" measurement across on the thigh is a 1" difference in circumference, and makes a huge difference in fit. Also, there's stretch to consider.

APC are pretty smooth denim, but unique in my view (not better, just different) from Japanese denim. KMW, Evisu, Momotaro, Somet, Jean Shop, Skull, Rag & Bone, Crate all have smooth denim in my direct experience.

Price range: it's a good time to venture into better territory than APC. Make the leap and spend +200 for your next pair and see what a major difference it can make.

 

[KBW]

which jeans have pocket stitching similar to my terrible paint drawing below? TIA