I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    I'm not angry, I'm from Philly
    Read more. Between SF and Sufu, any approved denim that can be had in the US has sizing information. I don't know what you're talking about with KMW and Crate.... KMW stretches to 1 size up, Crate starts 1 size down, probably stretches to size, although I've never done more than try a pair on. You either don't know how to measure yourself correctly or aren't looking at the sizing info.

    Good point, but the rant is really about studying the sizing info carefully and taking it as a real guideline.

    I know my sizes almost perfectly by trial and error. Unfortunately it doesn't help when I get a sanforized denim that is tagged 29, on the size chart as 30" measured, then is 31" (new) when I get it. That doesn't include stretch.

    Also doesn't help when I order PBJ marked as shrinking to 31" and it's 32.5" after a scalding hot 1/2 hour soak, with a 8.5" leg opening when it was supposed to be 7.75".

    They've been hemmed and hot soaked. I can't return/exchange them. What recourse do I have when I can't even believe the charts? Take a 50% loss and sell them? Repeat this over and over?

    Just griping here. I've already learned the hard way too many times now, but even days of homework don't pay sometimes.
     


  2. splattered

    splattered Senior member

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    Good point, but the rant is really about studying the sizing info carefully and taking it as a real guideline.

    I know my sizes almost perfectly by trial and error. Unfortunately it doesn't help when I get a sanforized denim that is tagged 29, on the size chart as 30" measured, then is 31" (new) when I get it. That doesn't include stretch.

    Also doesn't help when I order PBJ marked as shrinking to 31" and it's 32.5" after a scalding hot 1/2 hour soak, with a 8.5" leg opening when it was supposed to be 7.75".

    They've been hemmed and hot soaked. I can't return/exchange them. What recourse do I have when I can't even believe the charts? Take a 50% loss and sell them? Repeat this over and over?

    Just griping here. I've already learned the hard way too many times now, but even days of homework don't pay sometimes.


    This is exactly why i was afraid to even mess with dry denim and stayed away for it for so long... if i hadn't found this forum and others like it i never would have given any of it a chance. I'm still really paranoid about it and have already experienced some sizing problems and that's not even with the pairs that require a soak. I agree that things aren't consistent where they should be, but then maybe that's where the more adventurous forum members come into play haha I do understand that not everyone's experience with the same jean is going to be identical and people will experience varying levels of shrink/stretch but i've seen some pretty broad differences which sucks. I'm worried a little bit about the 3sixteens i ordered... i got them hemmed so they're a no return purchase. Still excited though.
     


  3. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    Re: odd denim sizing, I never, ever go by tagged size unless I'm at the store. Uniformly making every pair of jeans measure their tagged size is equally as insane as not doing so; a 32" waist on a 11.5" rise isn't the same as a 32" waist on a 9" rise.

    Can you explain further Whodini?

    I understand that on a low-rise, my jeans will sit lower, so I should size up. That part I completely get.

    But what I'm asking is, regardless of pre-shrink measurement (which depends on the many denim shrinkage variables) why can't there be consistency in tagging?

    A 29 should measure 29" if it's sanforized and shrink to 29" if it's STF. I can do the math from there based on the rise and expected stretch, y'know? That part is simple. Plus, I can then control the shrink more with cold/hot soaks, etc.

    But with this waist size not being at all accurate, pre or post shrink, or even on the size charts, it's like hitting a bullseye on a moving dartboard with every pair I buy.

    Am I crazy for seeing so much variation from manufacturer to manufacturer?
     


  4. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    Good point, but the rant is really about studying the sizing info carefully and taking it as a real guideline. I know my sizes almost perfectly by trial and error. Unfortunately it doesn't help when I get a sanforized denim that is tagged 29, on the size chart as 30" measured, then is 31" (new) when I get it. That doesn't include stretch. Also doesn't help when I order PBJ marked as shrinking to 31" and it's 32.5" after a scalding hot 1/2 hour soak, with a 8.5" leg opening when it was supposed to be 7.75". They've been hemmed and hot soaked. I can't return/exchange them. What recourse do I have when I can't even believe the charts? Take a 50% loss and sell them? Repeat this over and over? Just griping here. I've already learned the hard way too many times now, but even days of homework don't pay sometimes.
    Do you measure waist aligned or unaligned? Because that can account for up to a 2" difference. A lot of people/stores use the Blue in Green method or will post their own measurement processes. And you could have them tapered when you take them in to get hemmed. If you really aren't sure about sizing, call up a store that has them (Blue in Green, Self Edge, Farinelli's, Atsui, etc. all have amazing customer service and they'll walk you through the sales for as long as it may take)
     


  5. whodini

    whodini Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!

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    Can you explain further Whodini? I understand that on a low-rise, my jeans will sit lower, so I should size up. That part I completely get.
    The problem is that people have been trained to buy a specific pants size regardless of whether it's a pair of trousers or a pair of jeans even though both can be cut drastically different: I can go buy a pair of 32 chinos from BR, walk across the mall, pick up a pair of size 32 7 jeans, and both will fit me. I'd argue that manufacturers have cultivated this effect to eliminate the guesswork for the average consumer when it comes to sizing as hardly ANYONE physically measures their clothing before buying. And it makes sense. It's a clear timesaver, both online and in person, not having to try on every pair of pants or jeans that measure identically in the waist but are modeled completely differently. Even if a pair of lowrise jeans was tagged as measured it still wouldn't stop the sizing headache: "lowrise" isn't a clear-cut term, not everyone has the same body build, etc. It would force the consumer to have to inquire about detailed information as well as require the store to have such information readily available. But this is all on a broader scale. Boutique labels have a much more narrow focus of their target audience and to an extent can assume a more-informed client based on limited product availability and a higher price range. Their customers probably aren't moms and dads throwing a pair of jeans in their carts while picking up dog food and bathroom tile cleaner. As far as shrinking inconsistencies go, that's why I'll never go unsanforized pre-soak. It doesn't make sense to me and I'm not hardcore enough to care. As far as manufacturer inconsistencies go, it's debatable. On the one hand you're shelling out quite a bit of dough for a product that may not be exactly to spec; on the other hand, some people are shelling out that much because they like that human element of actually having slight imperfections rather than computer-built clothes.
     


  6. blehargh

    blehargh New Member

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    Do you guys have recommendations for brands/models if you do not want to do the whole raw denim thing? Raw denim seems fun, but I really don't want to deal with indigo coming off on everything.

    what i'm looking for - a straight, slim jean (not a skinny jean) with a more rigid denim. Something with an even wash, in a deep rich saturated blue. some texture or richness to the wash would be great too. Thanks!

    -don
     


  7. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    Unless you're rubbing your ass all over your furniture, most denim won't stain after a soak and especially after the first wash (fwiw I've never had a pair of jeans stain any furniture). Can't think of anything to recommend to you though, most companies make distressed models but not colorfast rigids. Maybe Dior Homme if you can stomach the cost
     


  8. Ge Fuzz

    Ge Fuzz Senior member

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    Do you guys have recommendations for brands/models if you do not want to do the whole raw denim thing? Raw denim seems fun, but I really don't want to deal with indigo coming off on everything.

    what i'm looking for - a straight, slim jean (not a skinny jean) with a more rigid denim. Something with an even wash, in a deep rich saturated blue. some texture or richness to the wash would be great too. Thanks!

    -don


    levis chipped rigid
     


  9. grundletaint

    grundletaint Senior member

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    Unless you're rubbing your ass all over your furniture, most denim won't stain after a soak and especially after the first wash (fwiw I've never had a pair of jeans stain any furniture). Can't think of anything to recommend to you though, most companies make distressed models but not colorfast rigids. Maybe Dior Homme if you can stomach the cost
    i have grey leather in my car and there's indigo all over it from soaked and/or washed jeans. i was moving furniture last night and woke up this morning to blue streaks all over my wall, too. blehargh- i had a pair of coated diesel vikers a few years ago. they were stiff, dark, no distressing, and fit great - pretty much identical to what you're looking for. i can't remember the wash #, but look around for something like that.
     


  10. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    i have grey leather in my car and there's indigo all over it from soaked and/or washed jeans. i was moving furniture last night and woke up this morning to blue streaks all over my wall, too.

    blehargh-
    i had a pair of coated diesel vikers a few years ago. they were stiff, dark, no distressing, and fit great - pretty much identical to what you're looking for. i can't remember the wash #, but look around for something like that.


    You sweat a lot? That could cause it
     


  11. Caveat

    Caveat Senior member

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    Somet 003s bought through B&S forum. First time wearing them. Thoughts?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  12. zandroid

    zandroid Member

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    Those measurements are super relaxed. You might have a hard time finding a "good" copy of that if that's what you're looking for. You might as well take this opportunity to buy something nice that fits well, too.

    Bootcuts are hard to come by around here and they certainly don't flare out to 10" based on a size 33. Nudie has a Bootcut Barry that goes to around 9" if you can live with that. Otherwise, if you're just looking for more of a traditional, albeit relaxed, cut then you should probably look into something like LVC (cultizm.com) and take a hit on them being shrink-to-fit. APC Rescues are also relatively relaxed, are sanforized, and fit your price range (shopfarinellis.com).



    I'm not trying to look for a relaxed cut. I was just saying my current jeans are relaxed. If I wanted exactly what I already have, I'd go back to Target. I'm just saying where I'm at now in my cheap jeans. I have zero experience with slimmer jeans, and maybe I could try. I do want something different.

    I would like to know if I could do better than Levi/Gap without jumping through too many hoops of tracking down a Japanese hookup or peeking into every Ralph Lauren outlet in the country. I was looking at the Bootcut Barry and Rescue. I like the look of the RRL stuff that was in Gilt, so I've been thinking about that, too. I might PM Mauro. I'm not ruling out Japanese brands, except all that I've seen are super slim fits that I probaby couldn't get my ass into. I'm probably not a build that Japanese clothing manufacturers deal with often.

    I'm not trying to look for absolutely the perfect pair because I know it doesn't exist. I want a starting point, and if I couldn't narrow it down some, I'd go insane.
     


  13. TheTexan

    TheTexan Member

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    What are the best low/midlow/mid rise straight leg raw jeans for $200-300?
     


  14. Arms_Akimbo

    Arms_Akimbo Senior member

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    So a rise from 8"-10"? That's almost every jean. Just look around on selfedge.com til you find something you like the fit of.
     


  15. aeglus

    aeglus Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    i have grey leather in my car and there's indigo all over it from soaked and/or washed jeans. i was moving furniture last night and woke up this morning to blue streaks all over my wall, too.

    I'm more than 3 months into my Skulls right now and they still bleed on my white shirts and shoes. Then again I never let them touch water.
     


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