I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. aeglus

    aeglus Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Why do I see so much raw denim with huge holes or tears? What is it about raw denim that gives it a tendency to be so damaged?

    people wear them slim as possible and never wash
     


  2. TxdoHawk

    TxdoHawk Senior member

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    I have a pair of Ralph Lauren Black Label jeans I bought off Ebay for some ridiculously cheap price. They are really nice...for maybe the first half a day I wear them post-cleaning. After that, they are just covered in lint and hair. Is there anything I can potentially treat them with to stop this almost magnetic attraction?
     


  3. hchc

    hchc Well-Known Member

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    is it true dry cleaning a pair of jeans = no loss of indigo color? seems like a little bit should be lost regardless
     


  4. whodini

    whodini Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!

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    is it true dry cleaning a pair of jeans = no loss of indigo color? seems like a little bit should be lost regardless
    Minimal, not "no loss."
     


  5. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    In women's denim, RIGID also refers to a 100% cotton denim, as opposed to one with elastane/spandex. I don't think this has crossed over to mens, but god help us (in this thread) if it does...
    That just doesn't make sense to me at all.....
    is it true dry cleaning a pair of jeans = no loss of indigo color? seems like a little bit should be lost regardless
    You'll potentially see less dye loss but there are a lot of people that say the chemicals will damage the denim. You can always try handwashing, be gentle and you'll get very little color loss since only the excess dye readily comes off in water, the loss is generally due to agitation. And a lot of people swear by Woolite Dark for its ability to keep from pulling off a lot of dye
     


  6. Checkerboard 13

    Checkerboard 13 Well-Known Member

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    Just wear them. You'll be fine.

    Thx.
     


  7. zandroid

    zandroid Member

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    I recently decided I want a decent pair of jeans. I had already learned a bit about selvedge from just browsing another forum (not fashion-based), and the awesome pictures stuck with me for a couple of years until a week ago, when I started near-obsessively researching and looking at my options. I have no actual experience with jeans that aren't pre-washed.

    Based on my shape, knowing my habits, and where I'll wear them, I think at the moment I'm looking for jeans that are:

    1) Bootcut, since I'm tall and fatter than most people here. I'm fine saying I'm fatter than you guys, but I'm still not fat.
    2) Rinsed/one-wash/sanforized, since I don't want to deal with soaking and such. I just want to wear them straight away and let the pros do the first step.
    3) Under $200. Any more than that is very hard for me to justify (to myself). I'll wear them alot, sure, but I could buy a PS3 for just over $200.
    4) Available in an online store, through a member here, or somewhere in the average mall. Browsing ebay has a tendency to take over my life, whatever I'm looking for.
    5) Durable. If I'm going to wear these things until they look cool, I want them to last quite a while past that.
    6) Whatever I forgot about and might add in a later post since I probably can't edit yet.

    I've been looking already for RRLs, cheap Nudies, and I'm considering Gap and Levi's. I know that Samurai, Sugar Cane, Dior Homme, Skulls, Flat Head, and all those you lust after would be great, but I have yet to see what I'm looking for from any of those (mostly the price issue). Maybe I missed something, so I can't rule them out. I've checked out a few of the affiliated online shops already.

    Rare, limited edition, exotic selvedge, advanced weaves, I don't yet know enough to care. My best jeans are Lucky Brand, no kidding. Before I found those (on sale), I was happy with Arizona jeans that I probably got at Macy's or Target or something.

    Through somewhat crude (as in, +/- 0.5") measurements using an 8.5"x11" sheet of paper and lots of eyeballing, here are my old pants' dimensions.
    My comfy but very relaxed Arizonas:
    W (using BiG method): 16.5"
    L: 34"
    Rise: 11.5"
    Seat: 25"
    Thigh: 12"
    Knee: 10"
    Leg opening: 10" (so not really a bootcut at all, and yes that is straight across)

    Newbie doesn't begin to describe me when it comes to denim. Thanks for whatever advice you can offer me. I'll probably be checking feverishly for replies, so I can clarify anything that is not... clear.
     


  8. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    Rant:

    WTF gives with manufacturer's and sizing with raw denim?! I mean, I've now had to sell more than 3/4 of the raw jeans I've bought over the last few years regardless of how careful I've been with sizing down/up/sideways, hot soak, cold soak, no soak. Jesus.

    I'm sick and tired of being consistently dissapointed with the jeans I buy 3/4 of the time, either due to sizing errors or stretch. There's nothing worse than being excited, sizing carefully, soaking right, then finding they're all off.

    Vanity sizing? Screw that. When will anyone make a pair of jeans that understands that one inch equals one inch. Even sizing my STF jeans to the tagged size before shrink doesn't guarantee crap, so why does anyone bother with tagging anything? I would expect a $250+ hand-made pair of jeans to be a bit more accurate and consistent than $40 jeans made in Sri Lanka. But it's the other way around!

    Forget stretch issues: that's another peeve for another rant...and beware if you think "ahh - I finally got it right this time..." Nope - just wait til they stretch.

    Examples:

    APC? don't go there...

    KMW, Crate, R&B: All these sanforized jeans measured 2" bigger than tagged. Period. Before stretch. So tag them what they are fer chrissake!! I'm not a dumb, fat american. And these are made or designed by americans!

    Momotaro: a 30 is a 30. 1" stated inseam shrink is really 2".

    A japanese STF brand I just hot soaked: Ordered tagged 31 on good advice, and the raw 31's measured to what the tagged size 33 raws were on the website's size chart. Jeans shrunk to the 'one-wash' 33 size on the site's size chart. Waist, leg opening, everything. Do I have to throw them in the dryer now...?

    Jean shop: ordered a taged 28, got measured 31". Ordered 27's? Got 29" waist. That's a 2" decrease for a one tag-size difference. On $290 goddamn jeans. Don't even get me started about my 3-pair loss "write-off" as part of the 'learning curve' with Jean Shop.

    I swear, I'm keeping UPS and the USPS in business alone for all the exchanges and sold jeans I'm shipping.

    So, do I now chuck the size charts out the window completely and just consider this a guessing game? Are there no tolerances, standards or guarantees at all? We have to deal with enough variables already with denim, can't I just get a size that's remotely close to what I expect for a $250 investment without expecting a 50/50 chance of having to loose $100 re-selling them a week later?

    I don't like discovering 1" discrepancies, or more, from size chart to what I get sent. I know the 'hand-made' disclaimers, but one inch discrepancies? Amish quilting circles have tighter tolerances.

    Sorry. If I didn't vent I was going to do something I'd regret...
     


  9. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    Read more. Between SF and Sufu, any approved denim that can be had in the US has sizing information. I don't know what you're talking about with KMW and Crate.... KMW stretches to 1 size up, Crate starts 1 size down, probably stretches to size, although I've never done more than try a pair on. You either don't know how to measure yourself correctly or aren't looking at the sizing info.
     


  10. aeglus

    aeglus Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've bought two pairs of jeans over the internet, and other than one feeling slightly too slim and one likely being a little big, didn't really have any problems. It'd be a lot easier if I could try it on before ordering though.
     


  11. whodini

    whodini Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!

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    Based on my shape, knowing my habits, and where I'll wear them, I think at the moment I'm looking for jeans that are:

    1) Bootcut,
    2) Rinsed/one-wash/sanforized,
    3) Under $200.
    4) Available in an online store, through a member here, or somewhere in the average mall. Browsing ebay has a tendency to take over my life, whatever I'm looking for.
    5) Durable.

    My comfy but very relaxed Arizonas:
    W (using BiG method): 16.5"
    L: 34"
    Rise: 11.5"
    Seat: 25"
    Thigh: 12"
    Knee: 10"
    Leg opening: 10" (so not really a bootcut at all, and yes that is straight across)

    Those measurements are super relaxed. You might have a hard time finding a "good" copy of that if that's what you're looking for. You might as well take this opportunity to buy something nice that fits well, too.

    Bootcuts are hard to come by around here and they certainly don't flare out to 10" based on a size 33. Nudie has a Bootcut Barry that goes to around 9" if you can live with that. Otherwise, if you're just looking for more of a traditional, albeit relaxed, cut then you should probably look into something like LVC (cultizm.com) and take a hit on them being shrink-to-fit. APC Rescues are also relatively relaxed, are sanforized, and fit your price range (shopfarinellis.com).
     


  12. whodini

    whodini Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!

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    Re: odd denim sizing, I never, ever go by tagged size unless I'm at the store. Uniformly making every pair of jeans measure their tagged size is equally as insane as not doing so; a 32" waist on a 11.5" rise isn't the same as a 32" waist on a 9" rise.
     


  13. enjoiii

    enjoiii Senior member

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    Allright because of style forum I've started getting into raw demin, I was hoping you guys could tell me what you think of the next 2 pairs I was planning on getting.

    So far I have:
    -APC New Standard
    -Dior Homme 21cm MIJ in black

    Here's the next 2 I was thinking of getting:
    -APC Rescue
    -Dior Homme 21cm MIJ in indigo

    I was thinking about getting the APC rescue's for dressy ocassions as I dont love tighter jeans with dress shoes, but I would also wear them casually. My question is will the APC new standard, APC Rescue and Dior Homme 21cm in indigo be too similar or should I get something else instead.
    Also I know my sizes in those jeans, which is appealing since there is no guessing which size and if they will fit me.

    Should I go with those 2 or get something less similar?
     


  14. whodini

    whodini Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!

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    Get what works for you but if that's all you have you might want to take a chance and try on something new.

    Don't limit your choices based on thinking you've found the "perfect jeans" with your first two pairs.
     


  15. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    Allright because of style forum I've started getting into raw demin, I was hoping you guys could tell me what you think of the next 2 pairs I was planning on getting. So far I have: -APC New Standard -Dior Homme 21cm MIJ in black Here's the next 2 I was thinking of getting: -APC Rescue -Dior Homme 21cm MIJ in indigo I was thinking about getting the APC rescue's for dressy ocassions as I dont love tighter jeans with dress shoes, but I would also wear them casually. My question is will the APC new standard, APC Rescue and Dior Homme 21cm in indigo be too similar or should I get something else instead. Also I know my sizes in those jeans, which is appealing since there is no guessing which size and if they will fit me. Should I go with those 2 or get something less similar?
    IF you can afford DH you can afford most of the jeans out there. Broaden your horizons, APC sucks in comparison to a lot of brands (and DH is nothing to write home about either, despite it's hyped reputation). Try something new, most of the love for DH comes from its washes (waxed, distressed, etc.) and there are a lot of other brands that are more experimental with their denim
     


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