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I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    ...considering some levi 501 shrink to fit. Instructions seem to be all over the place online on forums... buy 1 size larger in the waist and 2-3 inches longer inseam to allow for stretch? get 1 smaller than true waist size for a skinnier fit? Wear/dont wear them in the tub... soak for 20mins-2 hours hot/cold water? blargh.

    I think you'll find that many will recommend going true to size in the waist on these (they're already oversized when new to account for shrinkage). Hot soak for 1/2 hr. hang dry. Spray-on starch optional. Try that first. They get dense and stiff. I usually see about 2-2.5" shrink in inseam, and waist usually shrinks about 1" to a perfect fit on me.

    Almost all shrinking will happen in that first soak. BTW - I always go with a 30w in the STF. You and I seem to be the same size, FWIW. I think you'll like the experience. Bring a tape measure when you buy and see what the actual waist is. Buy 'em fitted at waist but not tight. They'll stretch back out. For about $40, a mistake isn't the end of the world.

    I want to buy some quality jeans. Would I be getting decent quality with J. Crew, Gap, Levi, and Banana Republic? Or should I be looking at Diesel, Acne, Rock and Republic, and APC? Just looking for some guidance and recommendations.
    I appreciate your input and help.


    The latest from JCrew denim washes (non-raw) seems to be really excellent. I like 'em, but haven't bought 'em. Selvage denim, nice details. Gap is pretty good these days. Levis is the benchmark, but in no way a real denim experience unless you're gonna try shrink-to-fits (imo). APC - no question, if you want a raw experience, they're an excellent place to get all the experience in one package.

    just save money and go with levis. they make decent washes and almost surely have a model that will work for you

    ^ R has a good point, as always. An excellent place to start.
     


  2. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    So what do I do about hemming the jeans? Do I just hem them to my actual leg length? Or do I turn them up at the bottom until I get to washing them, and then hem them after shrinkage?

    Depends if you want to wear a cuff, or prefer a lot of break or stacking at the ankle.

    Cuff em to the length you like. Wear 'em for a few day around the house to let the creasing bed in (at lap, behind knees). Then adjust cuff to length. Allow maybe 1/2" additional for future shrinking. These won't really shrink when you eventually rinse/wash 'em, but best to avoid the dryer always.

    When you get them hemmed, use Blue in Green or SelfEdge for a color-matched chainstitch hem. It's worth it. Great service, excellent results.

    See this:

    http://www.selfedge.com/chainstitching.php
     


  3. Dynasty

    Dynasty Active Member

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    just save money and go with levis. they make decent washes and almost surely have a model that will work for you

    So when it comes to non-raw jeans, Levis is one of the top brands and will get respect? I really wasn't expecting Levis to be recommended. Does the Levis brand blow away J. Crew, Banana Reupblic, and Polo Ralph Lauren when it comes to non-raw denim?
     


  4. Rosenberg

    Rosenberg Senior member

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    So when it comes to non-raw jeans, Levis is one of the top brands and will get respect? I really wasn't expecting Levis to be recommended. Does the Levis brand blow away J. Crew, Banana Reupblic, and Polo Ralph Lauren when it comes to non-raw denim?

    let me clarify when i say levis. im not talking about the ones you get from target or whatever(levis signature?). im not trying to knock target because occasionally i find a decent pick up there. point is that for another 15-20 bucks you can get the "original" levis from a department store. theyre made with better quality materials. plus they have been around for, what, 150 yrs or so? i dont think you can make denim your business for that long and suck at it. you might be able to find more modern cuts with some of the other brands, but levis has a fairly wide array of styles also. id be inclined to say levis would be the best value
     


  5. splattered

    splattered Senior member

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    Depends if you want to wear a cuff, or prefer a lot of break or stacking at the ankle.

    Cuff em to the length you like. Wear 'em for a few day around the house to let the creasing bed in (at lap, behind knees). Then adjust cuff to length. Allow maybe 1/2" additional for future shrinking. These won't really shrink when you eventually rinse/wash 'em, but best to avoid the dryer always.

    When you get them hemmed, use Blue in Green or SelfEdge for a color-matched chainstitch hem. It's worth it. Great service, excellent results.

    See this:

    http://www.selfedge.com/chainstitching.php


    I know i'll eventually need to hem but i thought APC shrank length wise eventually? If that's the case, what should be the desired hem alteration? An inch-2 longer than normal to allow for shrinkage? Confused on that part...

    Also, the Levi Shrink to Fit - Do they bleed all over the place? I know nudies/APC might bleed a little.. but seeing that the Levis are a hell of a lot cheaper could i expect to get dye all over everything i come within 10 feet of? :p
     


  6. heybigmoney

    heybigmoney Member

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    Anyone know how badly the flathead 1001s stretch? i heard that it was a lot worse due to the heavier denim. Should I go TTS?
     


  7. lordoodle894

    lordoodle894 New Member

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    Is there a raw jean that is around the same price range (no more than $50 at most) as Levi's 501 stfs, but more of a slim straight fit?
     


  8. connor

    connor Senior member

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    cheap mondays are skinny and cheap
     


  9. msza

    msza Senior member

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    A few questions:

    Is raw denim worth it for lower quality jeans like Levi?

    What is the best raw denim for ~$50? I've heard good things about Gap and Levi's.

    How should one size for Levi's/Gap. Is the general rule to size down 2 for all raw denim?

    Does anyone wear raw denim out to bars/clubs with all that smoke? Do you just air them out afterwards? This no-wash biz is a little worrisome to me.

    Any answers are appreciated, thanks!
     


  10. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    Is there a raw jean that is around the same price range (no more than $50 at most) as Levi's 501 stfs, but more of a slim straight fit?

    501s are the only true raw dry denim offered by Levis. Second the Cheap Monday idea.

    But definitely check out the latest 1969 series from Gap. About $68 I think? Tried some on and it's definitely a better bet than just getting 501 STF. Button fly, selvage, raw, nice details. SLIM fit.
     


  11. connor

    connor Senior member

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    A few questions:

    Is raw denim worth it for lower quality jeans like Levi?

    i dont see the point personally but STFs can look good

    What is the best raw denim for ~$50? I've heard good things about Gap and Levi's.

    STFs is pretty much it

    How should one size for Levi's/Gap. Is the general rule to size down 2 for all raw denim?

    no, that depends on many factors

    Does anyone wear raw denim out to bars/clubs with all that smoke? Do you just air them out afterwards? This no-wash biz is a little worrisome to me.

    i smoke in raw denim all the time and its not a problem

    Any answers are appreciated, thanks!


    wird
     


  12. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    I know i'll eventually need to hem but i thought APC shrank length wise eventually?

    Also, the Levi Shrink to Fit - Do they bleed all over the place?


    Sanforized denim like APC will shrink at the most about an inch. Usually much less, especially if you don't subject it to a dryer or very hot water (air dry instead).

    I always allow 1-2" extra length with raw, both because of that, and also the 'stacking' or creasing at the lap and behind the knees can actually cause the leg to seem shorter.

    Levis STF use synthetic indigo, and the dyeing process is different from many natural indigo premium denim. Yes, they do lose indigo, but no faster in the beginning, I've found, from any raws. In other words, you wont have blue hands, but it may get on white shoes over time. this is one reason cuffing isn't a bad idea while breaking in.
     


  13. splattered

    splattered Senior member

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  14. bad karma

    bad karma Member

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    A few questions:

    Does anyone wear raw denim out to bars/clubs with all that smoke? Do you just air them out afterwards? This no-wash biz is a little worrisome to me.

    Any answers are appreciated, thanks!


    The only times I've really smelled smoke on my jeans is if I was at a bonfire the night before. But that's usually not exclusive to my jeans and whatever else I wore that night is also a little stinky. If anything I find that the jeans freshen up faster than a sweater.
     


  15. turk malloy

    turk malloy Active Member

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    Sorry if this has been asked a million times before, but I'm slowly educating myself on all these different types of jeans. I just bought a pair of black coated nudies. Are these the 'raw denim' ones that I have been reading about, or similar? Should I wait 6 months to wash them? Will they eventually begin to show my wear? What does 'coated' mean anyway?

    Also, I got some joe's jeans in the birxton fit, pretty dark blue but not super dark. What's the deal with those?

    Thanks for the help, guys.
     


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