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I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. whodini

    whodini Senior member

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    Anyone? Whodini?
    My rb jeans have stretched out normally. FWIW, I always go my usual size.
     
  2. KBW

    KBW Senior member

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    The plain models (blue and black raw 19/21cm) can be had at Barneys for $300 something, if you're lucky they may be on sale in the upcoming 40% off. IMO though, there are other brands which have ripped off the Dior cut and make comparable jeans, DH really shines in their waxes and washes.

    I sadly live nowhere near a Barneys but may need to do a trip for Christmas shopping. Any idea when their 40% off sale occurs?
     
  3. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    I sadly live nowhere near a Barneys but may need to do a trip for Christmas shopping. Any idea when their 40% off sale occurs?

    Debate on this in the Sales PSA thread.
     
  4. KitAkira

    KitAkira Senior member

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    I sadly live nowhere near a Barneys but may need to do a trip for Christmas shopping. Any idea when their 40% off sale occurs?
    Not sure what is being discounted yet but Magician says tomorrow, when I went today the SA was on the phone doing presale orders. May be able to do that and have them hold it until you can go there. As I said though, DH denim isn't the bee's knees but the cut is fawned over. Look at Louisaviaroma and Browns fashion to see their more expensive and nice wax treated and whatnot
     
  5. joel_954

    joel_954 Senior member

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    Debate on this in the Sales PSA thread.

    Do you have a link to the Sales PSA thread? Tried searching, but not sure which one it is.
     
  6. KitAkira

    KitAkira Senior member

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    The official sales alert thread and also the thread started by Magician in B&S
     
  7. ConcernedParent

    ConcernedParent Senior member

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    The plain models (blue and black raw 19/21cm) can be had at Barneys for $300 something, if you're lucky they may be on sale in the upcoming 40% off. IMO though, there are other brands which have ripped off the Dior cut and make comparable jeans, DH really shines in their waxes and washes.

    Dior denim sucks. It's non selvage, feels comparable to denim half the price- maybe worse, rips easily, blows out easily.

    With that said, if you had even the smallest penchance for Dior- get it, there is no substitute. The little dart on the back is probably the best backpocket design ever, I only prefer that to a blank pocket. Nothing quite drapes and fits like Dior denim- and it fades beautifully over time. Whereas a lot of these Japanese Repro brands are notorious fast faders (Flathead, Eternal, Skull) or unfadeable (Iron Heart, KMW), Dior is a nice medium, it fades yet it's much more even and not uber-contrasty. Fade patterns resemble APC- but they fade into a beautiful light-blue as opposed to the shit stain/rust colored hue of APC.
     
  8. KitAkira

    KitAkira Senior member

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    Dior denim sucks. It's non selvage, feels comparable to denim half the price- maybe worse, rips easily, blows out easily. With that said, if you had even the smallest penchance for Dior- get it, there is no substitute. The little dart on the back is probably the best backpocket design ever, I only prefer that to a blank pocket. Nothing quite drapes and fits like Dior denim- and it fades beautifully over time. Whereas a lot of these Japanese Repro brands are notorious fast faders (Flathead, Eternal, Skull) or unfadeable (Iron Heart, KMW), Dior is a nice medium, it fades yet it's much more even and not uber-contrasty. Fade patterns resemble APC- but they fade into a beautiful light-blue as opposed to the shit stain/rust colored hue of APC.
    Just because denim isn't selvedge does not mean that it's bad denim (and they actually have 2 raw selvedge jeans), and I said the raw denim isn't spectacular. The waxed denim is unequaled by any though, and that's why most people buy DH jeans, I don't know of anyone but you who would pay the premium for the scar. And the indigo raws fade in a normal time frame whereas the black raws are notoriously hard to fade, harder than many other brands
     
  9. seany

    seany Senior member

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    I love how my denim honeycombs, and whiskers and stuff have some nice creasing and folds but have no fades yet.


    But if you turn the jeans a certain way under a light room, you can see the fadeing coming through.


    Just a pretty cool thing I never noticed before (btw first time raw denim owner so yeaa)
     
  10. KitAkira

    KitAkira Senior member

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    Just wait until the first wash and then they'll bloom. I love the "inverse" fades on my xx-010s though, so cool
     
  11. ConcernedParent

    ConcernedParent Senior member

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    Just because denim isn't selvedge does not mean that it's bad denim (and they actually have 2 raw selvedge jeans), and I said the raw denim isn't spectacular. The waxed denim is unequaled by any though, and that's why most people buy DH jeans, I don't know of anyone but you who would pay the premium for the scar. And the indigo raws fade in a normal time frame whereas the black raws are notoriously hard to fade, harder than many other brands

    Selvedge or not, it's just not very good considering you're paying $300+. The scar isn't the ONLY reason to buy it- it's just another factor along with everything else I listed.

    I was referring specifically to the indigo- not that many people try to fade out black jeans they way they do blue ones.
     
  12. Synthese

    Synthese Darth Millennial Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    I'm about to pull the trigger on the Red-D. look great.

    Another well respected option that I've liked are the Skull 5010. Am also advised that the Samurai Yamato S003, Warehouse Dubbleworks 660, Flat Head SE05BSP and Paul Smith Red Ear are options to look at. Also Pure Blue Japan 005s.


    If you end up with the Red-D's, I would love to hear what you think of them, and also see some fit pics. Oh, and KitAkira, thanks for the recommendations. I do understand that a long inseam is explicitly required for a stacked look; I'd just rather avoid wearing jeans that, instead of looking studied, simply look like they're too long for me. That is, I'm interested in silhouettes that work well for a stacked look. So again, thank you for the input; I'll definitely check out all those suggestions.
     
  13. benjamin831

    benjamin831 Senior member

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    Quick question: My tailor hemmed my jeans a little too high, maybe an inch shorter than I would prefer. Is there anyways to extend or stretch the inseam a little?
     
  14. aeglus

    aeglus Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not really but you can get some minimal stretch by soaking then pulling on the legs. Sort of doubt you can get an inch of stretch though.
     
  15. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    If you end up with the Red-D's, I would love to hear what you think of them, and also see some fit pics.

    For sure, brother. I'm overdue on some fit pics of other stuff too.

    Quick question:

    My tailor hemmed my jeans a little too high, maybe an inch shorter than I would prefer. Is there anyways to extend or stretch the inseam a little?



    Oh, crap. Bummer. Hope your tailor knew what he just messed up, when you present him with the reciept and the bill.

    Are they floods now, or did you just lose an inch from your stacking?
     
  16. adidasaj

    adidasaj Active Member

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    Anyone know how long APC jeans take to stretch out? Or have thoughts on the process?

    Before I bought my pair, most of the advice I googled here on Styleforum, Superfuture, and other sites (I'm new to these sites; searching for APC and Evisu advice is how I found the forums) suggested not to get my regular size.

    I normally wear a 30, though I have a pair of 29s which are comfortably tight and a 31 which fits snug, too.

    Every post on APC jeans though seemed to say go 2 sizes smaller, and 3 if you want tight jeans.

    I decided to go with 29s instead of 30s since I was scared to go 28 or 29, and I figure I'm still growing a bit so if they stretch to 31, that's OK.

    But the 29s are still very tight. I've been wearing them a few days a week for 3 or 4 weeks now.

    Should they be stretched out by now, or should I really not worry until it's been a few months?

    They have definitely stretched. I couldn't even sit down when they were new. Just too tight in the waste and crotch. But they still feel like 28s or something. Not even 29s should be this tight.

    I haven't washed them BTW.


    p.s. Ironically, all the advice I found for Evisu, especially with unsanforized, was to go 2 sizes BIG. So I did that, and my No1s are 2 sizes too big. I guess that advice may have been from previous years... maybe they never used to cut unsaforized in STF? Not sure.
     
  17. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    Anyone know how long APC jeans take to stretch out? Or have thoughts on the process?

    I normally wear a 30, though I have a pair of 29s which are comfortably tight and a 31 which fits snug, too.

    Every post on APC jeans though seemed to say go 2 sizes smaller, and 3 if you want tight jeans.

    But the 29s are still very tight. I've been wearing them a few days a week for 3 or 4 weeks now.

    Should they be stretched out by now, or should I really not worry until it's been a few months?

    p.s. Ironically, all the advice I found for Evisu, especially with unsanforized, was to go 2 sizes BIG. So I did that, and my No1s are 2 sizes too big. I guess that advice may have been from previous years... maybe they never used to cut unsaforized in STF? Not sure.


    APC take a minimum of two weeks of every-day wear to fully stretch, maybe more. You may also be basing your waist size on poorly tagged jeans. My recommendation is to get a pair of jeans you like which fit well, and measure the wistband across. Align the waist band when you measure across. You'll get a measurement about 15-17" across. Double that number, and that should be your post-stretch target.

    APC are sanforized denim, so there will be minimal shrinkage when you wash, but stretch a lot - hence the downsizing advice.

    The Evisu are shrink-to-fit, so sizing up on the tagged size is necessary on those. I have a pair of the Lot No. 1s. I got one size up from TTS, and they shrank 2.5" in the waist. Now they're perfect. Two sized up was recommended by BiG. Did you soak/wash yours yet? If not - definitely do.

    Check out the APC-only site, and post questions there about APC - you'll get more helpful advice.
     
  18. adidasaj

    adidasaj Active Member

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    Hmmm doesn't STF mean that if you get a 30, they'll be big at first but after shrinking, they'll be a 30?

    My Evisu Heritage No1s are 32s, but they were like 34 or 35 when new. Now after a soak, they shrunk down to 32 -- the tag size. The Evisu website says to get your regular size, too (as did the tag on them), and that after a soak, they'll fit to the tag size.

    Not sure. I read a lot of advice about going big. But in hindsight, most of those topics were from 2003-2006 it seems. Maybe they changed the way they tag sizes in 2009?

    I'm definitely a 30 in basically all my jeans, and these No1 32s are still way too big in size. I soaked them well so they've definitely shrunk all that they're going to shrink.
     
  19. KitAkira

    KitAkira Senior member

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    Depends on the brand. Some will start at tagged size, shrink with a soak, and then stretch in certain areas to ft the wearer. Others will start big, shrink to tagged size, and in all likelihood stretch back to being oversized.
     
  20. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    I'm not angry, I'm from Philly
    Hmmm doesn't STF mean that if you get a 30, they'll be big at first but after shrinking, they'll be a 30?

    My Evisu Heritage No1s are 32s, but they were like 34 or 35 when new. Now after a soak, they shrunk down to 32 -- the tag size. The Evisu website says to get your regular size, too (as did the tag on them), and that after a soak, they'll fit to the tag size.

    Not sure. I read a lot of advice about going big. But in hindsight, most of those topics were from 2003-2006 it seems. Maybe they changed the way they tag sizes in 2009?

    I'm definitely a 30 in basically all my jeans, and these No1 32s are still way too big in size. I soaked them well so they've definitely shrunk all that they're going to shrink.


    ^ Kit is right. Tagged size isn't always what you end up with after hot soaks/washing.

    All my research on the Lot 1's led me to this fit wisdom -

    Tagged size is pretty much what you get in the 'raw' condition or actual waist measurement pre-wash (my 31s measured about 30.5).
    The current lot 1s with the 2000 denim will shrink 2.5" after two soaks. Mine did.
    The current lot 1s have changed dimensionally since earlier runs.
    Many runs on jeans will change (My new Warehouse Dworks 660 from an earlier shipment measured 1 size smaller than the latest batch BiG just recieved. BiG's latest batch were waaay different from their chart. Ugh...

    Sounds like you sized right for current batches, but not for the ones you got. I'd sell and try again with another 32, or actually, a 31 (I'm usually a starting 30 waist, post-shrink, and mine needed a little stretching to get that). Stretch will happen, but you can't shrink yours more than you have, probably.

    http://blueingreensoho.com/site/inde...mart&Itemid=28

    Better yet - call the shop and have them manually measure the waist and leg opening before you buy. Shrink rate is more of a constant than the raw sizing on the jeans. Use the hard measurement to base your sizing on, not the chart.

    Yes, I learned this the hard hard way.
     

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