I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. Nil

    Nil Senior member

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    Does anyone know how much Nom de Guerre denim stretches? I'm currently waffling between sizes on a pair of grey classic fit.
     


  2. whacked

    whacked Senior member

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    Still heard it stretches a shit load.

    Size down in increments of 2 as the sufu crowd do, and add in a bit vanity/peer pressure charged pain tolerance, anything can stretch a bunch.

    Does anyone know how much Nom de Guerre denim stretches? I'm currently waffling between sizes on a pair of grey classic fit.

    Not enough. The rule of thumb for NDG Classic Fit is that if you're between sizes (since they only come in even sizes), size up.
     


  3. ConcernedParent

    ConcernedParent Senior member

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    I've never understood the appeal of Diors either. People keep saying it's the fit, but aren't 19cm and 21cm just carbon copies of APC NC and NS, respectively? The denim doesn't seem like anything special either. I guess it stretches less than APC denim, if that bothers you. They also come in longer inseams. That's about all I can think of.

    I don't know, I was about to buy into the hype and get a pair of 19cms. I saw them in person and look a little more tapered at the hem... that's about it.
     


  4. Kill_switch

    Kill_switch Senior member

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  5. TC1990

    TC1990 Senior member

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    Does anybody have some first-hand experience with the Berlin cut from DRKSHDW? I can get a good deal on a pair, but I'm hoping the cut won't be too full for my skinny legs.

    Thanks!
     


  6. whodini

    whodini Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!

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    What are the sizing rules for Crate Route? True, up, down?

    and where can I purchase them? Ive checked Farinelli, context, detour and secret service...no routes =(

    There's an official Crate thread that has measurements for Routes; the same info is also up on the Farinelli's blog.

    You're hopping on a bit late on the Routes, or Crates in general, as this season's stock is fairly depleted. Which state are you in?
    Shit after i posted that i was wondering if diors were selvage. Who would pay $350 for non selvage denim?
    I was going to simply shake my head and ignore this but come on, how long have you been here? There's enough piece of shit denim that happens to selvage to fill Fresh Kills twice over.

    The truth is that there is plenty of quality denim that is non-selvage. I would have thought that you had been here long enough to have heard the "selvage does not equal quality" speech countless times.
    I've never understood the appeal of Diors either. People keep saying it's the fit, but aren't 19cm and 21cm just carbon copies of APC NC and NS, respectively? The denim doesn't seem like anything special either. I guess it stretches less than APC denim, if that bothers you. They also come in longer inseams. That's about all I can think of.
    It's all preference but personally I think the Dior denim is much better than APC. MIIs are decent but the MIJs are what tend to get recognized here a lot more. I also believe APC took the idea for the NC and NS from Dior, not the other way around.
     


  7. aqhong

    aqhong Senior member

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    I also believe APC took the idea for the NC and NS from Dior, not the other way around.
    I agree that denim quality is a matter of personal preference, but this is incorrect. Hedi Slimane was a fan of APCs (there are old pics of him wearing them) and so used them as "inspiration" for Dior Homme's cuts. APC has been doing raw denim since at least the early 90s, while Dior Homme didn't even exist until 2000.
     


  8. whodini

    whodini Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!

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    I stand corrected.
     


  9. ConcernedParent

    ConcernedParent Senior member

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    I agree that denim quality is a matter of personal preference, but this is incorrect. Hedi Slimane was a fan of APCs (there are old pics of him wearing them) and so used them as "inspiration" for Dior Homme's cuts. APC has been doing raw denim since at least the early 90s, while Dior Homme didn't even exist until 2000.

    Didn't the 19cm come out after NCs?
     


  10. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

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    Quick question about sizing since I'm soooo confused about this... I'm a 28 regular pants and non-raw jeans... I have slim thighs but I'm not a mod/rocker/hipster... I've got 28's in new cures (I know I know), I don't like the fit. They're too loose in the thigh and ass but still tight at the knee and calves... I like a straight cut, something like a Slim Jim... including a slim thigh Am I better off getting a Petit Standards in say, 27 (sized down 1), or a New Standards in 26 (Sized down 2). All the measurements I seem to have found show the New Standard as having MASSIVE thighs compared to the NC's or Slim Jims... Is that true? Gods of the internez, what does thou recomendist? Thanks
     


  11. aqhong

    aqhong Senior member

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    Didn't the 19cm come out after NCs?
    I'm going to assume that you meant to ask if they came out before, because otherwise your statement wouldn't contradict what I said.

    If that's the case, I think you may be right, and that the 19cm was actually based on the original Cure, which was a looser cut than the New Cure. All the measurements I've seen show the 19cm lining up with the NC, which is why I assumed they fit the same, but I just remembered than the NC has a very slight flare at the hem, which is probably what's throwing things off (the inflated hem width suggesting a looser leg). This would explain why the 19cm appears to have a more tapered leg... because it actually does.

    Now that I think about it, this would ALSO explain why many people insist that Petit Standards fit looser than New Cures despite measurements to the contrary. It all goes back to the misleading hem measurement of the NC.

    Moral of the story: measurements can be deceiving.
     


  12. aqhong

    aqhong Senior member

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    Quick question about sizing since I'm soooo confused about this... I'm a 28 regular pants and non-raw jeans... I have slim thighs but I'm not a mod/rocker/hipster... I've got 28's in new cures, I don't like the fit. They're too loose in the thigh and ass but still tight at the knee and calves... I like a straight cut, something like a Slim Jim... including a slim thigh Am I better off getting a Petit Standards in say, 27 (sized down 1), or a New Standards in 26 (Sized down 2). All the measurements I seem to have found show the New Standard as having MASSIVE thighs compared to the NC's or Slim Jims... Is that true? Gods of the internez, what does thou recomendist? Thanks
    You're not sizing correctly. You need to take into account vanity sizing as well as stretch when sizing down. Based on what you've said, I would recommend PS in 26 or NS in 25.
     


  13. theom-

    theom- Senior member

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    The truth is that there is plenty of quality denim that is non-selvage. I would have thought that you had been here long enough to have heard the "selvage does not equal quality" speech countless times.

    It's all preference but personally I think the Dior denim is much better than APC. MIIs are decent but the MIJs are what tend to get recognized here a lot more. I also believe APC took the idea for the NC and NS from Dior, not the other way around.


    okay okay that was kind of stupid to say so here's what i meant:

    Do they even have nice details? I know the construction is pretty good, but when you're spending that much money I would expect a detail like selvage denim.
    Dior is stupid for not making them selvage.

    It is kind of stupid to spend that kind of money on those jeans, only to have them tapered, when, IMO, much better jeans could be had for much less.

    I was also under the impression that selvage equals better quality more often than not.
     


  14. ConcernedParent

    ConcernedParent Senior member

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    okay okay that was kind of stupid to say so here's what i meant:

    Do they even have nice details? I know the construction is pretty good, but when you're spending that much money I would expect a detail like selvage denim.
    Dior is stupid for not making them selvage.

    It is kind of stupid to spend that kind of money on those jeans, only to have them tapered, when, IMO, much better jeans could be had for much less.

    I was also under the impression that selvage equals better quality more often than not.


    They do have selvage versions. They are pricier and rarer.

    When I saw the 19cms, the construction and detail is subpar considering the price (good, but you can do much better). You are paying for the name/prestige/fit. With that said, I am still highly considering buying one as my next pair.
     


  15. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

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    You're not sizing correctly. You need to take into account vanity sizing as well as stretch when sizing down. Based on what you've said, I would recommend PS in 26 or NS in 25.
    I have a 30'' waist, so taking into account vanity of 2, that puts me at 28 (normal jeans)... then considering stretch, people recommend size down 1 or 2 max on New Cures and 2 to 3 on Standards... I didn't size down on new cures and they're still too tight in the calves/knee but the thigh and ass is too big... so I figured a NS is looser all round but at least straight, I can size down 2 to a 26 and they'll still be a bit looser at the knee and calve then the NC's... The question/problem is the NS's thighs, all the measurements seem to indicate they're huge, even if sized down a lot... where to the Petit's fit into the mix? How accurate is Oipollo or Context?
     


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