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I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

notwithit

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Looking for:

- Black warp x white (or natural) weft

- 1966-ish cut (mid- to high rise, generous through the hips and thighs, tapered to a non-insane hem measurement)

- Lighter oz.

- Button fly

- Pref raw / one-wash selvage
 

Zmitchem

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I need some help! I am 5’11, 108kg and wear size 36x30 jeans. I have 29’ quads which do not like pants. Currently I do not have a pair of well fitting jeans. Any advice? I have recently tried on 25+ pairs with only 2 ok options, but not in a dark enough color or without a wash.

Jeans that do not fit:
-All Levi’s
-J Crew Athletic cut (called in and thigh is 27.5’)
-All Lucky Jeans
-All BKE Jeans (Minus Seth Cut would need tapering)
-All Silver Co jeans (Grayson, ok again would need tapering)

Jeans that fit ok:
-Grayson Silver co (need major tapering and no colors)
-BKE Seth fit (Same as Silver Co)

I appreciate the help!
 

Peter1

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I need some help! I am 5’11, 108kg and wear size 36x30 jeans. I have 29’ quads which do not like pants. Currently I do not have a pair of well fitting jeans. Any advice? I have recently tried on 25+ pairs with only 2 ok options, but not in a dark enough color or without a wash.

Jeans that do not fit:
-All Levi’s
-J Crew Athletic cut (called in and thigh is 27.5’)
-All Lucky Jeans
-All BKE Jeans (Minus Seth Cut would need tapering)
-All Silver Co jeans (Grayson, ok again would need tapering)

Jeans that fit ok:
-Grayson Silver co (need major tapering and no colors)
-BKE Seth fit (Same as Silver Co)

I appreciate the help!
That's a tough sizing -- guessing you need mid/high rise, but don't want wide leg opening, hence need to taper. To be honest I can't think of any quality (heritage denim, selvedge etc) off the rack jeans that would work, but, there are some custom options out there -- at a price, of course. That would be best although seems like they start at around $300. So, maybe you're stuck with finding something "OK" but having legs tapered. If you do, make sure the taper is taken in equally from inseam and outseam or you'll get a weird look.
 

Zmitchem

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That's a tough sizing -- guessing you need mid/high rise, but don't want wide leg opening, hence need to taper. To be honest, I can't think of any quality (heritage denim, selvedge, etc.) off the rack jeans that would work, but, there are some custom options out there -- at a price, of course. That would be best although seems like they start at around $300. So, maybe you're stuck with finding something "OK" but having legs tapered. If you do, make sure the taper is taken in equally from inseam and outseam, or you'll get a weird look.
Thank you for the advice! I called a few stores today that I don't have locally/did not visit and found a few that might be ok options. The issue is that the companies are not ones I know much about or are most likely cheap quality (Old Navy, etc.). I am thinking I may need to size the waist up, but I am worried about the seat not fitting. I have a muscular build, but when you go up to a 38' waist in a loose fit, we are not looking at an athletic fit anymore. I also don't want to pay around $100 for decent jeans only to have to pay $40-$80 to get them to fit or on the flip side end up paying near $100 for a cheap pair of jeans to fit. I will keep looking. I tried to find decent MTM options but like you said they come with a price or they are based in places like India and have no real guarantee of getting a good fit.
 

TheloniusDrunk

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How do you get a pair of raw denim tailored? I want to get a pair of momos but I know the pair I had last fit everywhere perfectly, but they didn't taper below the knee as I liked. What should I look for in a tailor to see if they can handle it?
 

Bullitt

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How do you get a pair of raw denim tailored?
I would avoid having a pair of jeans tailored; hemming: yes, proper alterations: no. Instead look for a pair that is a better fit. Quality jeans-maker, like Momotaro, put some effort into getting the proportions of their models right. When you change the design, the balance might be off.

On the other hand, if you bought a pair that looks odd on you and you can’t return it, give it to a friend or sell it, see what a tailor can do. It might be a better option than never wearing them.

Technically, it shouldn’t be a problem. Making the legs slimmer is something, every tailor can do easily. Just make sure they have a sewing machine that can handle the heavy denim.
 

lawyerdad

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How do you get a pair of raw denim tailored? I want to get a pair of momos but I know the pair I had last fit everywhere perfectly, but they didn't taper below the knee as I liked. What should I look for in a tailor to see if they can handle it?
Depending on where you live, there may be recommendations on the forum for places that have particular expertise in denim alterations. Bullitt's suggestion is a good one - in buying a new pair I'd try to find one with the cut I like rather than planning to have them altered. But that said, if you go the alterations route I'd look for someone who specializes in denim. I think the issue is less the complexity of the alteration per se so much as an understanding of how they'll look after some additional wear/washing -- it's definitely a different dynamic with a pair of raw denim jeans than, say, with a pair of dress trousers that will always be dry-cleaned.
 

Solverson

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Whats the difference bewteen hot and cold soak for unsanforized jeans?
 

Fueco

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Whats the difference bewteen hot and cold soak for unsanforized jeans?
Hot soak will shrink your jeans more. I got an extra 2” shorter on the inseam with a hot soak than with a cold soak last time around.
 

jimilli

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Are the Iron Heart 777's comparable to RRL Slim Narrows? Also what Iron Heart jeans are like 511's? Thank you to anyone that can help.
 

Solverson

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Hot soak will shrink your jeans more. I got an extra 2” shorter on the inseam with a hot soak than with a cold soak last time around.
Is the hot soak going to affect the appearance of the denim?
 

Fueco

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Is the hot soak going to affect the appearance of the denim?
That probably depends on the weave of the fabric. It will shrink the fabric which may alter the appearance.
 

LuxLemon

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What's the consensus on Nudie jeans in this forum?

Had a pair for several years and got the desired distressing, through various body changes and style preference modifications the old pair is no longer suitable for quite some time. Have found Levi's 511 to have high levels of congruence for my tastes and body shape. Worth upgrading to higher quality denim or stick with the formula that works?

Thanks!
 

Bullitt

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What's the consensus on Nudie jeans in this forum?
Not the the consensus, but my opinion:

There is better quality and more interesting denim on the market. Nudies is a high street fashion brand – like 7 for all mankind, Diesel, True Religion – therefore they invest a lot in marketing. At least Nudies Jeans look decent and the quality is ok. I have one pair which I don’t wear often anymore, because I have better options.

If you like Nudies and they fit you well, get an other pair. If you are a bit bored with them, have a look at Naked and Famous and some of the Japanese brands that offer more interesting denim.
 

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