1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. Jompso

    Jompso Senior member

    Messages:
    2,990
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2014
    Location:
    L Dot A Dot
  2. dan138zig

    dan138zig Senior member

    Messages:
    915
    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2009
    Location:
    Indonesia
    I just bought the Okayama Spirits and I think I screwed up the sizing. They're already well fitted that a soak will make them too tight. Is there any disadvantage of not soaking beside the fact that they'll shrink at first wash? Is there any alternative to washing with water? What do you think of dry cleaning? Thanks a lot!
     
  3. Peter1

    Peter1 Senior member

    Messages:
    590
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2010
    Location:
    Paris
    

    I might try to sell them here or Sufi.. Too tight jeans are no fun, esp if raw.

    If they're wearable I don't really see a need to soak,but eventually you'll probably have to wash them..I've had good luck with inside out cold wash on the wool cycle, then hang dry. But I think you're going to see some shrinkage no matter what. Dry cleaning is certainly an option. I'm sure it won't hurt them.

    Ime if they get really foul smelling a soak won't do it..
     
  4. MickeyPunch

    MickeyPunch Senior member

    Messages:
    1,098
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2012
    Should I make some cut offs using my first pair of raw denim, now retired (PRPS)? I don't know if I want to do it, but on the other hand it would be a way (the only way) to bring them back to life.
     
  5. dan138zig

    dan138zig Senior member

    Messages:
    915
    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2009
    Location:
    Indonesia
    I don't think I can't afford any shrink, especially in the inseam (32") and leg opening (6.5"). I'll just never gonna wash them I guess, haha. Thanks, man.
     
  6. accordion

    accordion Senior member

    Messages:
    2,527
    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2013
    sell or exchange imo, like you're not gonna not wash them forever, and they'll probably rip a lot sooner due to all the starch, you might even get rainwater on them, etc, just not worth the hassle.
     
  7. dan138zig

    dan138zig Senior member

    Messages:
    915
    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2009
    Location:
    Indonesia
    will a minute dip in cold water do?
     
  8. Jompso

    Jompso Senior member

    Messages:
    2,990
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2014
    Location:
    L Dot A Dot
    That will barely get any shrinkage out at all. The reason one soaks denim in warm or hot water is that cotton contracts (aka getting the shrinkage out). Cold water will barely get any shrinkage out and you'll just be left with a very slightly smaller pair of jeans that are essentially still in their raw state. Wearing them without soaking them is a possibility. Try wearing them as is for a few weeks so the areas that are going to stretch out, do stretch, and then give them a warm soak for about thirty minutes. This may tighten up the cotton threads and still make the jeans wearable, and you wont have worn them long enough that the fading patterns will really be displaced once soaked. The inseam though is another issue altogether, and if a 32 is too small on a pair of unsanforized denim, you might want to just sell or exchange them like @accordian said. Just not worth the hassle or investment of time and money to wear a pair of raw denim for an extended period of time, that doesn't fit you right or that you wish you sized differently. If you sell, you may have to eat a few bucks, but in the end, its worth it to get a pair of jeans that fit. Because in all honesty, it doesn't matter how nice the jeans are (or any clothing item for that matter), if they don't fit you right, they will look like shit. Just my opinion. Hope things work out.
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2014
  9. pk977

    pk977 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    94
    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2012
    I use peppermint to clean it through!
     
  10. dan138zig

    dan138zig Senior member

    Messages:
    915
    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2009
    Location:
    Indonesia
    Hi @Jompso, helpful as always! If I don't ever wash them, how bad drops of water will be, really? For example if I was under the rain for 3 seconds. Buying a new pair is a possibility though.
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2014
  11. Jompso

    Jompso Senior member

    Messages:
    2,990
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2014
    Location:
    L Dot A Dot
    I wouldn't be concerned with that, being in the rain isn't going to shrink your jeans. If you were to fill a tub of water and then submerge your jeans and then immediately take them out, that would do next to nothing as far as shrinkage goes, and that's far more exposure to water than if you were to just wear them in the rain. And you mentioned dry cleaning before. Dry cleaning isn't recommended because they use chemicals that aren't exactly great for the fabric, however you can dry clean your raw denim (I have before, with no issues), you just need to be sure and adamant that they do not press your jeans, this damages and shrinks the cotton fibers which can manipulate the shape of your jeans and worse, give you creases that will not come out. Overall, this much concern about a pair of jeans you just got, kinda makes me want to advise you to reinvest in another pair. Them being a constant cause for concern and at the forefront of your mind whenever you wear them really isn't worth it.
     
  12. guitar2013

    guitar2013 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    65
    Joined:
    May 1, 2014
    Regarding the posts above, does it mean I should get a bigger size to accommodate the shrinking of jeans?
     
  13. accordion

    accordion Senior member

    Messages:
    2,527
    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2013
    if you're buying unsanforized raw denim yes, not sanforized
     
  14. fadeawayyx

    fadeawayyx Member

    Messages:
    20
    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2014
    Suggestions for a roughly 200£ purchase? Slim fitting, dark in color.
    Brands to look for? Thought I'd upgrade from my usual Levis.
     
  15. Serenity

    Serenity Active Member

    Messages:
    39
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2010
    Any idea which acne jeans that have same fit as apc NS?
     
  16. Jompso

    Jompso Senior member

    Messages:
    2,990
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2014
    Location:
    L Dot A Dot

    Yes as accordian stated, it is important you know if the jeans you are buying are sanforized or not. The sanforization process, while still technically leaving the denim it its raw state, it is no longer in loomstate, or untreated. The sanforization process is a series of treatments and exposure to moisture, heat, and other elements that shrinks the denim and removes many of the minor imperfections (such as the smaller cotton fibers that give loomstate denim that hairyness). The point of which is to pre-shrink the jeans so you can buy true to size and not have to worry about any significant shrinkage when washed. Unsanforized is in complete loomstate, straight from the loom to the cutting board. It goes through no pre-treatment process and due to this, shrinks a significant amount, as all untreated cotton does, when exposed to high temperatures and moisture. You should usually size up roughly 1.5-2 inches in the waist if the jeans are unsanforized. This denim will stretch with wear, so if they are a little tight after their first soak, that is ok, they will loosen up. However you must be sure to make sure the other measurements will match up as well, because with unsanforized denim, the entire body of the jean will be contracting in the hot water. The hips/thighs/calfs/hem are minimal (roughly .3-.5 inches) but the inseam can be anywhere from 2 to 3 inches, depending on the tightness (or i should say looseness of the weave), heat of the water, and how long you subject them to high temperatures. Good luck with your purchase.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  17. Jompso

    Jompso Senior member

    Messages:
    2,990
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2014
    Location:
    L Dot A Dot
    At roughly $350 USD, you have quite a few options to go with. I like Pure Blue Japans if you want a medium weight jean that is of impeccable quality. Flat Head also makes amazing denim at a medium/low weight, especially the SE05BSP, which is a slim fitting jean (I own a pair and love them), available through Self Edge. I love me some Iron Hearts, but if your just upgrading from your levi's your probably not interested in heavyweight denim. If you are at all curious about heavyweight denim, The Iron Heart 555-01 is an amazing slim fitting cut that is a dark blue. They also released a cut called the 301 which is exclusively available through Self Edge, that is a slim tapered cut. However your most likely interested in something a little less intense, and if thats the case I would advise Pure Blue Japan - XX-012 for an extremely dark denim (they use indigo warp and weft threads, so both sides of the jeans are a deep, rich blue), or Pure Blue Japan's XX-013 or XX-005, just your standard slim jeans with a medium/low rise made by a fantastic denim manufacturer. These two models are available at http://blueingreensoho.com/ ... You can also try the Momotaro's - 0702 or 0701's, available through the same website. The 0702s have dark blue warp threads and black weft threads (if the darkness of your denim is a deciding factor) that create amazing contrasting fades,. You really can't go wrong with any of these options, good luck with your search.
     
  18. fadeawayyx

    fadeawayyx Member

    Messages:
    20
    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2014
    Fantastic info, thanks Jompso!
     
  19. EPrest90

    EPrest90 Senior member

    Messages:
    139
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2014
    Just received my first raw and selvedge denim, Gustin's American Sixteener. Now, they're a bit long(34 inseam) and was going to have them hemmed. Total raw denim noob here, wash them first then have them hemmed? Or just have them hemmed as is but a little longer than I normally would have? The fit on the waist is pretty good, enough play that when they do shrink, they'll be snug.

    Thanks gents
     
  20. Jompso

    Jompso Senior member

    Messages:
    2,990
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2014
    Location:
    L Dot A Dot
    I am not very familiar with Gustin denim, the extent of my knowledge is their website, and the times it has been mentioned here, however it should state on their site if the denim is sanforized or unsanforized. If isn't listed/stated on their website, email them and ask them if their denim is sanforized, and if they suggest a soak before wear, before you get them hemmed. If they are sanforized your good to go, if they are unsanforized and you don't soak them and get them hemmed, after your first wash you will wind up with a pair of jorts. Not a good look. And you don't need to necessarily wash them. I prefer my jeans to maintain their dark indigo shade before the break in process ensues, this also helps with creating higher contrast fades. Just do what I do and fill a tub full of very very hot water and submerge the denim completely, getting all air pockets out, and weigh them down with a few objects and let them soak for 30 minutes. After that 30 minutes, remove the jeans, empty and refill the tub with steaming hot water and then soak them again for another 30 minutes, then hang dry. Without the agitation that washing machines impose, you will lose very little, to no indigo, just perhaps some excess surface dye. Just be sure not to agitate the denim when they are soaking cuz this can lead to color loss. This will get all the shrinkage out and you will be able to safely hem them at that point. Again though, this is only necessary if the jeans are unsanforized. Hope this didn't come too late.
     
    1 person likes this.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by