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I gutted a $500 suit jacket to see how it's constructed

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by EzraPaul, Sep 15, 2016.

  1. EzraPaul

    EzraPaul Senior member

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    In case anyone is interested, I started gutting jackets at various price-points/brands to see how they are constructed. I started with this sport coat from Jos. A. Bank that I picked up on ebay for $10 and have a Z Zegna on deck:

    [​IMG]

    Close-up of the fusible:

    [​IMG]

    If you're curious about the details, I wrote a little blog piece on it as well (mods had me remove the link, but you can click in my signature and then the blog tab).
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 5, 2017
    5 people like this.
  2. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Paging @jefferyd
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    Nice writeup! Keep'em coming.
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2016
  4. starro

    starro Senior member

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  5. cowpoke

    cowpoke Member

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    I have no idea why this is so awesome, but it is. Excellent post!
     
  6. Hifilover

    Hifilover Senior member

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    Very informative .
     
  7. TOBestWR

    TOBestWR Active Member

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    Very interesting. Thank you
     
  8. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Very informative.

    It would be interesting to see some more of the bespoke houses as well as one or two on the UK Regional entities, many of whom had the proprietor/cutter and a few others the actually construct the garment: it might tell us something about the tradesmen of the past.
     
  9. EzraPaul

    EzraPaul Senior member

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    Glad you guys find it as interesting as I do. BTW, if anyone has an old suit that is worn or damaged that you want to contribute, I'll pay for shipping and gut it.
     
  10. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    Went to your website and noticed you sell suits/SCs. How about showing us the construction of one of your items? Also, which company makes your suits (if you don't mind me asking)?
     
  11. EzraPaul

    EzraPaul Senior member

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    I was trying not to be too shamefully self-promoting, but the blog was eventually leading to that point. I'll put a pic up later - it's fully canvassed. I make in a small factory in Northern Italy that's made for many of the major brands at one point or another.
     
  12. EzraPaul

    EzraPaul Senior member

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    The moderators took down the picture of the inside of one of my jackets, so PM me if you want to see it.
     
  13. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    BOOOOOOOOOOOO!

    Why? @LA Guy
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2016
  14. EzraPaul

    EzraPaul Senior member

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    They deemed it to be self-promotion. No problem, just PM me if you are curious...
     
  15. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    It was one of the mods, but they were just following guidelines. There is a short step between an informative post and self-promotion, and having reviewed the deleted post, I can understand the judgement call made.

    Cheers,

    Fok.
     
  16. starro

    starro Senior member

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    How about gutting the trousers and waistcoat that come with a $500 fused jacket? I'm sure many forum members are curious.
     
  17. EzraPaul

    EzraPaul Senior member

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    There's not really "guts" per se in trousers. The difference between low and high quality is in the sewing techniques for the most part. Trousers can be turned inside out to see most of the details. Regardless, I only got the jacket from this suit, so don't have trousers/vest, but if I get time I will try to do a post on those garments as well.
     
  18. starro

    starro Senior member

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    Yeah you're right. For me the fascination lies in the trouser waistbands. I have a feeling Jos Bank trousers have plastic inside the waistband. I know they use fusible around the pockets too.

    I'm also beginning to suspect that waistcoats have fusing all the way through. Be nice to confirm this.

    Regardless, you're doing a great job!
     
  19. EzraPaul

    EzraPaul Senior member

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    There might be fusible to add heft in the vest, but otherwise there's generally not any structure in a vest. I don't have a ton of experience with fusibles (a lack of knowledge that ok with), so not sure how they are used for garments other than jackets. Thanks for the kudos.
     

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