I don't think that Bespoke and MTM are for novice

[vitaminc]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

One of the tailors who occasionally post here wrote extensively about proper ironing techniques.


- B

The finished jacket and the ironing post are from the same blog?
http://www.tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by vitaminc

The finished jacket and the ironing post are from the same blog?
http://www.tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/

Yeah, that is jefferyd's own suit...and I was kidding.


- B

 

[jefferyd]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Yeah, that is jefferyd's own suit
And no, those shoulders are not for everybody. No, actually, they are not for anybody; they are something of an act of protest or defiance or something rater than serious tailoring. I make the patterns for a company that makes hundreds of suits every day, most of them sort of natural shoulder but not quite. Garments which must clothe the ever-expanding American male. One guy likes a bit of rope, the other likes soft and natural but the store doesn't want to stock too much inventory so they ask you to make something in between. A retailer on this forum recently put it very well when he exclaimed his preference for a new line of clothing that he had received. Something to the effect that the first two garments sold were a 46T and a 48T and that "if you can fit the big guys you can fit everyone!" (I think it was in a thread on Crittenden or something, do a search). That's how RTW garments end up so huge with such gaping armholes. Not because the ones making them like it that way (we don't) but because the retailers demand it. I can't say as I blame them- there are now more big guys than small ones so it makes more economic sense. But I still don't like what I see. So I cut myself a garment and I am so sick of these tenty, nondescript, blah American garments that I go overboard and cut something with armholes so high they cut off my circulation and ropes so big they could act as floatation devices in an emergency. And that's not to mention the buttonholes and the myriad other sartorically-extended middle fingers directed at the wasteland that is retail. I don't like TB's stuff but I think we're coming from sort of the same place. I hate that tie too but it's the stripes of a tailoring association I belong to so it's sorta like saying hi to the boys while I offend everyone with my cutting. Feels good to rant every now and then, both in writing and with a thimble

 

[yfyf]

Originally Posted by Holdfast

Anyway, another thing to mention is there's a difference between something fitting and something looking good or dressing well.

We all talk about how fit is the most important thing in a garment. While it's certainly crucial to get a good fit, beyond that I think there's a law of diminishing returns and style, colour and pattern-play become relatively more important at this level. Phat Guido demonstrates this well - as iammatt points out, not all his fits are super-perfect in the way some others are, but the other aspects of dressing well in my opinion move him above some of those with more perfect fits, but less flair.

Another example of this difference would be members like yfyf, who has a very good fit on many of his items, once you take into account the style/cut/silhouette he is seeking. His version of a good fit is different in many areas to what I would choose for myself, but it's still good.
\\

People on the internet are talking about me! Hurray!

Although I often seem to have gone off the deep end, these days I am trending towards bespoke things that are less closely fitted. I'm actually intending to get a "proper" sack suit from J Press next time I pass through the US. I enjoy clothes, it's nice to have a bit of everything in the wardrobe.

Holdfast, your comments are spot on: there are plenty of examples of perfect fit but nothing too inspiring in their styling and vice versa. For the bespoke bunch, Manton's and iammatt's are closest to pitch perfect in both fit and styling, voxsartoria is up there as well though I'm not 100% keen on the shape of his jackets (sorry boss).

At the end of the day in terms of fit: you have to accept that you are a certain size and shape and work with it. To rebel against it ends in tragedy and I've been guilty of this in the past too.

Going back to the OP: if you really, really like clothes then bespoke is a great option. It just takes a while to get it where you want it and ends up being a pretty expensive learning experience.

 

[Kuro]

Originally Posted by yfyf

Going back to the OP: if you really, really like clothes then bespoke is a great option. It just takes a while to get it where you want it and ends up being a pretty expensive learning experience.

Even at the high-end of bespoke, like LH, Poole, Gieves, Camps etc? I would expect that if I went to any of these firms, they should get it right and then any changes would be my OCD...

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by yfyf

For the bespoke bunch, Manton's and iammatt's are closest to pitch perfect in both fit and styling, voxsartoria is up there as well though I'm not 100% keen on the shape of his jackets (sorry boss).

Booooooo!

I'm thinking I'm looking kinda yoyo-ish here.


- B

 

[yachtie]

Originally Posted by yfyf

For the bespoke bunch, Manton's and iammatt's are closest to pitch perfect in both fit and styling, voxsartoria is up there as well though I'm not 100% keen on the shape of his jackets (sorry boss).

Dissed.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by yachtie

Dissed.

Let's beat him up with iNunchucks.


- B

 

[yachtie]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Let's beat him up with iNunchucks.


- B

I'm with you bro. Not even an honorable mention.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Booooooo!

I'm thinking I'm looking kinda yoyo-ish here.


- B
Maybe you could be a player, if you just opened up those quarters.

 

[yachtie]

Originally Posted by iammatt

Maybe you could be a player, if you just opened up those quarters.

Kink.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by iammatt

Maybe you could be a player, if you just opened up those quarters.

There's only so much cucumber that people can take.

I have some Yao stuff that is more up your alley that I haven't posted yet.


- B

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by yachtie

I'm with you bro. Not even an honorable mention.

I'm with you there. I expected to at least be referred to mockingly.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

There's only so much cucumber that people can take.

Sometimes the quarters open themselves.

 

[yfyf]

Originally Posted by Kuro

Even at the high-end of bespoke, like LH, Poole, Gieves, Camps etc? I would expect that if I went to any of these firms, they should get it right and then any changes would be my OCD...
I'd better qualify my statement: My experiences with SR are 1. my old boss who was a graceful chap in the first place and his history with SR was long, 2. that London Lounge thread where someone did 3 suits in one go with 3 different makers, 2 of which were SR and 3. my own experience with a Savile Row bespoke tailor who I will not mention, but was a bit of a let-down. I will be having a second fitting with another SR house in February. SR's great houses have some amazing people working for then, but even then you're not guaranteed success on the first try, though much more likely than the average cut-rate tailor in Thailand. Manton and Voxsartoria should be able to provide more information about their SR first-times. Ooo

 

[yfyf]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I'm with you there. I expected to at least be referred to mockingly.

Originally Posted by yachtie

I'm with you bro. Not even an honorable mention.

The best of the best is kinda worthless if everyone is in there. It's ok, you guys are still my SF bro-sephs whether you like it or not.