Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Young Gentleman, Mar 5, 2012.
Yup...indeed they do. Not so much Kiton though, not yet.
I have tried bespoke twice and was not happy with my results. I am much more happy with Isaia caliber suits off the rack.
I refer you to the collected works of the Style Forum worthy mafoofan.
What was your biggest issue with bespoke?
Kiton fabrics are quite exclusive and nice to the touch. No tailors or few tailors can get access to them if they are available. No tailor can ever successfully duplicate a cut so if you look a certain cut get the suit.
These are all good and valid points, but they are orthogonal to the question that the OP is asking.
The American retail customer of the most expensively made and marketed RTW tailored clothing is the rarest bird on places like SF, the home of the bargain hunter, the thrifter, and the guy interested enough in clothes to think and do "bespoke."
1. Buying decisions for the full-price retail customer are often made by their spouse or girlfriend. Period. And women who shop for hubby or boyfriend like brand names marketed like world brands for women's clothing.
2. The existence of dowdy bespoke does not ever even enter the framework of thinking for such guys. They do not know it exists, and barely know...if at all...that tiny shops with tailors producing bench made clothes exist. They are not mulling this point..."good" versus "bad" bespoke...over as a decision factor. They have probably heard of Savile Row (if we are talking about Americans) but that's about it. If they have any interest in clothes (and many don't), they will know Neiman-Marcus or similiar chain, and maybe the best local retailer/haberdashery. They'll go there, and two things will happen:
a. Entire ensembles will be conjured up in minutes by salesmen. This cannot be done in in the bespoke world except in rare cases. This is a great convenience if you do not know that you should be asking strangers on the Internet about how to dress (those fools!)
b. Any expression of interest in "custom" work will be countered with the assertion that the typical suspects do, indeed, offer "custom." During the end of my shopping days at Louis, for example, they were selling "Oxxford Bespoke 2000." Certainly, the Brioni and Oxxford stuff that I ordered throught the 90s there and at another Boston shop was cast as "custom." And it was, in a certain way of thinking.
3. The price level of Kiton on down is not the range of cost optimization interest for many full-price retail buyers. In other words, optimizing the "value" aspect of it is not a big factor. "That jacket costs $6K? Fine. I'll take three. No, I won't be in town...send it to my office."
The main factor that moves such guys from that world to the bespoke world is something simple: seeing another guy like them, from their milieu, who is dressed in bespoke clothes, and thinking that the other guy looks great.
Then, the veil is lifted. But, since such guys are congregated in serious numbers in only a few cities and only in a few professional and social niches, the odds of encountering one in real life are low in most locations.
So, the veil stays put.
Only the first part was meant to answer the question. The rest was a response to the implicit suggestion, thankfully less common now than in the past, that "going bespoke" is inherently going to produce superior results to buying RTW.
"Go bespoke and get perfect fit!!1!"
"You take the blue pill – the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You take the red pill – you stay in Wonderland and I show you how deep the rabbit-hole goes." -Morpheus
I agree with that.
I will note, however without claiming this is scientific or overly meaningful, that in TRINI's pinned "WAYWRN Hall of Fame" thread, out of the twelve guys in the OP, nine are entirely or nearly completely in bespoke clothes, one is largely in MTM, and two are largely in altered RTW. The bespoke group would be ten out of thirteen if someone hadn't insisted that all his photos be removed.
So, to get beyond a certain point, the tradition of bespoke tailoring seems to be useful.
This accounts for the majority of my clientele, old and new.
Do you have a minute? I'll tell you my favorite story along these lines. My store used to be in the same complex and next to Stanley Korshak. A man is shopping for suits in Korshak and tries on every brand in the store. Frustrated salesman, excuse me, customer service professional, asks him "what are you looking for" gentleman says " I want a suit like that man is wearing" and points to a man across the room. They both approach the man and ask what suit he is wearing. "Despos, he's right next door". Gentleman walks over and orders a suit and has been a client since.
Do you love that story as much as I do?
I've tried liver several times and I don't like it!
But what's he doing at Stanley Korshak?
Well, I like that story, but I wouldn't say I love it. Maybe I just don't know it well enough.
Come on...try the right kind:
Galette de champignons de Paris et foie gras mariné au verjus, huile de noisette, citron confit at l'Astrance.
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