• Welcome to our newest affiliate vendor, Threads of Apollo We are very happy to welcome our newest affiliate vendor, Threads of Apollo, a sustainable leather goods company based out of Vancouver, BC, Canada, making premium, made-to-order, water-repellent leather jackets and gloves. .Please help me give them a warm welcome in their new thread.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

I deconstructed a suit, and i've got q's

johnnynorman3

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2004
Messages
2,700
Reaction score
19
I had an Ebay purchase gone wrong (only $30 out of pocket, so no big deal). Luckily the pants are cool on their own. But I digress.

So, instead of trying to hawk the thing on Ebay (I doubt I could've gotten anywhere near back what I paid, if I were honest), I'd deconstruct it. So, here's what I found. The chest did have a "third interlining" of canvas and what appeared to be a soft cotton material draped over the canvas. But, then "fused" onto the front material was what I presume to be the "fusable material." I basically started tearing it off and it pretty much seemed like an iron-on patch type deal. You could see the glue residue on the wool.

So, my question is, why would you need to put fusing like that when you already have a canvas chest piece? Honestly, it seems like the fusing might add some durability to the wool, which is a good thing. I didn't think that it made the wool all that much stiffer, and it was an old suit and I didn't see any bubbling. So my feeling is that the most important things are (1) a good canvas chest piece and (2) canvas in the lapels [this one DID NOT have canvas in the lapels -- it depended on the extra body given by the fusing]. But I just don't get why you'd need to put fusing in when you have the canvas chest piece (note: I understand why'd you do it in the lapel if you don't have canvas there, but why elsewhere?).

Could somebody answer this?
 

Alias

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2003
Messages
1,536
Reaction score
3
Was the jacket of lightweight wool? If so, the presence of fusable material might be to give the jacket more shape.
 

BGW

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2004
Messages
107
Reaction score
0
My understanding is that "fusing" refers not to a lack of canvas in the jacket, but rather to a means of securing the canvas interlining to the wool itself.

So while almost every suit has a canvas interlining, the difference referenced on these boards is that sometimes the canvas is glued in place, and sometimes it is sewn in place.

I could be way off base here, and am posting mostly as a way of verifying my intuition. Correct away.
 

johnnynorman3

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2004
Messages
2,700
Reaction score
19
The canvas was indeed stitched in. It basically was stitched in on the sides (imagine a square piece of canvas, with the stitching around the perimeter, such that the middle is "floating". So, the fusing had nothing to do with the security of the canvas.

It wasn't a lightweight wool. It was actually a winter/fall weight. Initially I thought the fusing might have been to give body. But I just don't think that makes much sense.
 

j

(stands for Jerk)
Admin
Spamminator Moderator
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Messages
14,912
Reaction score
103
As you said, the suit depended on the fusible interlining for body in the lapels. Undoubtedly the use of good canvas interlining stitched in loosely and floating around in there would require a great deal more handwork and add to the cost of the suit. It's mainly a cost cutting measure.
 

j

(stands for Jerk)
Admin
Spamminator Moderator
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Messages
14,912
Reaction score
103
By the way, post some pics if you can.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

Styleforum x S.E.H Kelly Balmacaan: Choose the Fabric

  • standard 5 — light and dark brown

    Votes: 8 6.5%
  • standard 7 — dark brown and charcoal

    Votes: 17 13.7%
  • wide 1 — charcoal and blue-grey

    Votes: 7 5.6%
  • wide 3 — barley and brown

    Votes: 5 4.0%
  • wide 5 — charcoal and dark navy

    Votes: 10 8.1%
  • wide 6 — charcoal and black

    Votes: 3 2.4%
  • wide 7 — dark green and black

    Votes: 29 23.4%
  • wide 8 — malt and dark brown

    Votes: 10 8.1%
  • wide 9 — blue-grey and charcoal

    Votes: 35 28.2%

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
458,325
Messages
9,941,842
Members
207,143
Latest member
deihdyig
Top