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I can't find a good raincoat, help! (Norway)

ZRH1

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I ordered the Grenfell Campbell with standard fit a week and a half ago. The day after order confirmation I started to send to their CS different communications to change the fit to classic. After a week of my first messages I received a reply from Max (customer support). Awfull CS!

which one is tighter fitting? Standard or Classic?
 

St1X

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I am/was on the hunt for a custom trench. MTM is difficult to find, to my knowledge, bespoke even more so. CAD & Dandy have something with Mackintosh in UK, still only MTM, but well over 2'000 EUR if I recall correctly. For that reason, I do not think that Grenfell offering is at all expensive.
It has also been two years since. Prices went up significantly over this period. I bet that Grenfell coat costs 1500 eur now
 

Zapasman

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As I said the coat runs big all over. The parts of it are all proportioned to the size. I should have ordered one size smaller, but its ok, its a raining coat after all.
 

ZRH1

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re: Greenfell, how high are the armholes?

Should the question be new to you, what I am asking is how close the hole of the sleeve is to the arm within. The closer the hole, ie. the higher from below the armpit, the less the garment will rise when, for example important when considering a coat, the arm is risen for the use of an umbrella. Many find a tight armhole very unpleasant, even when talking bespoke suits, however, said critics are then the first to be annoyed by detached collars and raised shoulders.

I am asking this here since in another thread, Burberry seems to have wide/low armholes.

Thank you
 

duffyfluffy123

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You can ask private white vc to make a mtm coat (they also made some burberry coats in 90s)
Second option is you can get custom piece from English utopia (he was ex head designer of barbour now owns a micro brand in UK made in UK). You can choose all the details you want best fabric, double ventile cloth, riri zippers etc..
 

whorishconsumer

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re: Greenfell, how high are the armholes?

Should the question be new to you, what I am asking is how close the hole of the sleeve is to the arm within. The closer the hole, ie. the higher from below the armpit, the less the garment will rise when, for example important when considering a coat, the arm is risen for the use of an umbrella. Many find a tight armhole very unpleasant, even when talking bespoke suits, however, said critics are then the first to be annoyed by detached collars and raised shoulders.

I am asking this here since in another thread, Burberry seems to have wide/low armholes.

Thank you

I'm guessing the "standard" fit, which is the modernized cut, has fairly tailored sleeves, whereas the "classic" has pretty loose-fitting sleeves with a lower armhole.

If only I could find confirmation on sleeve length.
 

comrade

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I have a Sanyo Balmacaan rain coat that is probably 10 years old. It is very well-made and
waterproof (not cotton). I looked online for the Sanyo website and could not find it. However,
there are numerous retailers selling Sanyo clothing. You might be able to find what you are
looking for from these retailers. The price would be a fraction of Burberry.
 

TimothyF

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re: Greenfell, how high are the armholes?

Should the question be new to you, what I am asking is how close the hole of the sleeve is to the arm within. The closer the hole, ie. the higher from below the armpit, the less the garment will rise when, for example important when considering a coat, the arm is risen for the use of an umbrella. Many find a tight armhole very unpleasant, even when talking bespoke suits, however, said critics are then the first to be annoyed by detached collars and raised shoulders.

I am asking this here since in another thread, Burberry seems to have wide/low armholes.

Thank you

I can definitely confirm re: Burberry. Low armholes combined with not enough material in the back, I don't know how anyone can be comfortable in those, stylish and iconic as they may be
 

ZRH1

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I'm guessing the "standard" fit, which is the modernized cut, has fairly tailored sleeves, whereas the "classic" has pretty loose-fitting sleeves with a lower armhole.

If only I could find confirmation on sleeve length.
You can ask private white vc to make a mtm coat (they also made some burberry coats in 90s)
Second option is you can get custom piece from English utopia (he was ex head designer of barbour now owns a micro brand in UK made in UK). You can choose all the details you want best fabric, double ventile cloth, riri zippers etc..


thank you, Cad&Dandy (with Mackintosh) flat out refused to have a MTM made without me coming to London, even if I assumed full responsanibility for fit issues. I get that for a suit/jacket but absolutely not for a trench coat! EDIT: PWVC said the same thing, but back then I was supposed to come to London.
 

whorishconsumer

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I ended up going into J Press here in the city and trying on what seemed the last of stock, which happened to be my size (46). The first was a long coat in a light beige cotton that didn't seem particularly waterproof. The label didn't indicate model (standard, classic), but it was fairly fitted in the body with a relatively high armhole and sleeves that weren't narrow but also weren't cavernous. The sleeves were, however, short.

I kicked around the idea of having the sleeves lengthened before they had me try the shorter coat. This time the material was the beige gabardine I had expected, and had the style (standard) indicated on the label. The length was indeed short. I had the SA helping me measure the back length and it came in at 40", which is shorter than indicated on the size chart given to me by Grenfell (same chart that's on the first page here). Not knowing how old these coats were, they may have been from an earlier run of the style. The SA didn't think the model had been customized for J Press. The fit was fuller in the body, which was more appropriate for me, with armholes similar to the longer version, but this time with a sleeve length some 2" longer, which worked for my long arms.

Now I was considering whether I could live with the short length and accept a coat that was in all other respects a fit. I was leaning toward a pass, when the SA emerged from the basement with a longer version in the same beige gabardine and with a fit very similar to the standard. This one was labeled "classic fit". The two coats prior appeared to have a button-in lining, whereas this had a zip lining. I wasn't in love with the pink color of the zip-in liner, but with all my criteria otherwise met, I purchased the coat, and don't regret it.

I haven't measured the coat against the size chart, so it is possible that this iteration of the "classic" model is distinct from what you would get today from Grenfell direct, or from other collaborations such as Mettez or Andover Shop. However, the coat isn't nearly as engulfing as I had feared the model to be, while still providing coverage to a good amount of my person, which the "standard" model did not.

As an aside, the SA mentioned that J Press was no longer partnered with Grenfell, at least in part due to the latter's poor communication. He said that the company had been talking about partnering with Chrysalis moving forward but that nothing had yet been finalized.
 
Last edited:

Zapasman

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re: Greenfell, how high are the armholes?

Should the question be new to you, what I am asking is how close the hole of the sleeve is to the arm within. The closer the hole, ie. the higher from below the armpit, the less the garment will rise when, for example important when considering a coat, the arm is risen for the use of an umbrella. Many find a tight armhole very unpleasant, even when talking bespoke suits, however, said critics are then the first to be annoyed by detached collars and raised shoulders.

I am asking this here since in another thread, Burberry seems to have wide/low armholes.

Thank you
Sorry, I did not understood the question as I have not great knowledge about garments. I would say is quite relaxed (wide/low armholes), not tigh at all, so you will be confortable enough at that area even wearing a jacket. Hope I have answer your question now.
 

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