• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • Epaulet x Styleforum Alpine Loden Collection

    Loden wool, woven in Tirol for centuries, is known for its resistance to cold and wetness. Our project in collaboration with Epaulet introduces Alpine Loden, a modern 18oz fabric blend of 75% merino wool and 25% nylon, woven in Italy. It's lighter, more durable, wind-resistant, and more comfortable than traditional Loden fabric. Partnering with Rochester Tailored Clothing, we offer custom garments like sportcoats, suits, and overcoats, made to your specifications. Learn more about the Loden collection here.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

HUSBANDS (Paris)

numberniner

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2020
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
So are the new MTM items produced in Portugal? How’s the quality?!

I am confused how they offer a full canvas suit with handmade details and a high quality cloth at such a price.

Production must be close. Fox is very expensive and full canvas requires long hard work.

Typical fashion markup is 3x production price

It costs AT LEAST 600 To produce full canvas in Italy

Anyone can explain this?
 

Cobra

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2021
Messages
148
Reaction score
204
So are the new MTM items produced in Portugal? How’s the quality?!

I am confused how they offer a full canvas suit with handmade details and a high quality cloth at such a price.

Production must be close. Fox is very expensive and full canvas requires long hard work.

Typical fashion markup is 3x production price

It costs AT LEAST 600 To produce full canvas in Italy

Anyone can explain this?

I can't answer your 2nd question (though I am curious because their prices are really competitive from what little I know about suit making), but as far as the first question, I think all the MTM stuff is still done in Italy and the RTW has moved to Portugal. However, the RTW for the pre-Fall collection is all still made in Italy so I'm interested to see if there's any reflection in price (wishful thinking on my part).
 
Joined
Nov 17, 2022
Messages
9
Reaction score
16
I can't answer your 2nd question (though I am curious because their prices are really competitive from what little I know about suit making), but as far as the first question, I think all the MTM stuff is still done in Italy and the RTW has moved to Portugal. However, the RTW for the pre-Fall collection is all still made in Italy so I'm interested to see if there's any reflection in price (wishful thinking on my part).
Can confirm my most recent commission was made in Italy. Small note - this is MTO not MTM, though it fits as well as any MTM I've had, just fewer customization options. They can adjust a lot of the fit (e.g., I'm a short guy and they were able to shorten the jacket without it looking off) but you don't have a ton of customization other than than the basics: fabric, lapel, choice of a few trouser cuts, etc.
 

othertravel

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
10,138
Reaction score
4,030
So are the new MTM items produced in Portugal? How’s the quality?!

I am confused how they offer a full canvas suit with handmade details and a high quality cloth at such a price.

Production must be close. Fox is very expensive and full canvas requires long hard work.

Typical fashion markup is 3x production price

It costs AT LEAST 600 To produce full canvas in Italy

Anyone can explain this?

Just reach out to the store and ask.
 

merkwurdigliebe

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2019
Messages
226
Reaction score
421
So are the new MTM items produced in Portugal? How’s the quality?!

I am confused how they offer a full canvas suit with handmade details and a high quality cloth at such a price.

Production must be close. Fox is very expensive and full canvas requires long hard work.

Typical fashion markup is 3x production price

It costs AT LEAST 600 To produce full canvas in Italy

Anyone can explain this?
I believe they can keep the prices lower than most brands by simply making smaller profits. Nicolas briefly mentions it during this podcast:

They have been raising prices pretty consistently since they started blowing up in popularity, though.
 

numberniner

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2020
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
I believe they can keep the prices lower than most brands by simply making smaller profits. Nicolas briefly mentions it during this podcast:

They have been raising prices pretty consistently since they started blowing up in popularity, though.

My theory is that they buy the fabrics like fox brothers second hand
There’s lots of stores that offer it bulk for a fraction of the price

The profit isn’t traditional fashion pricing and perhaps they make just 200-300 profit? After all the costs…

Doesn’t give them room to replace if need be but I suppose that’s written off as a lost
 
Joined
Nov 17, 2022
Messages
9
Reaction score
16
My theory is that they buy the fabrics like fox brothers second hand
There’s lots of stores that offer it bulk for a fraction of the price

The profit isn’t traditional fashion pricing and perhaps they make just 200-300 profit? After all the costs…

Doesn’t give them room to replace if need be but I suppose that’s written off as a lost
I don't know about the fabric side of things but one thing that works in their favor is that they don't really hold much inventory - the majority of their direct sales are MTO. I haven't been to the Rive Gauche store which is supposed to hold more RTW but their original store almost no RTW suiting available. I know they also wholesale which according to the below Permanent Style article was where expansion was focused, but it sounds like they might be pulling back a bit on that.

 

numberniner

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2020
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
I don't know about the fabric side of things but one thing that works in their favor is that they don't really hold much inventory - the majority of their direct sales are MTO. I haven't been to the Rive Gauche store which is supposed to hold more RTW but their original store almost no RTW suiting available. I know they also wholesale which according to the below Permanent Style article was where expansion was focused, but it sounds like they might be pulling back a bit on that.

Made to order is more expensive than producing mass quantity

I work in production so I’m relatively familiar with pricing

I do think the very good price of a husbands suit leads to high demand = difficult to make so many suits at once, hence the delays

I understand the shirts are made in Poland with not much handwork (if any?) which is on the more affordable side

I do have a small list of stockists. It seems like they tend to focus on the Asian market for expansion.
 

breakaway01

Distinguished Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2013
Messages
4,446
Reaction score
4,748
My theory is that they buy the fabrics like fox brothers second hand
There’s lots of stores that offer it bulk for a fraction of the price

The profit isn’t traditional fashion pricing and perhaps they make just 200-300 profit? After all the costs…

Doesn’t give them room to replace if need be but I suppose that’s written off as a lost
I doubt they buy fabrics second-hand, at least not for MTO. I have ordered from LP, Minnis, and Fox books and every time my requested fabric was available. I've heard that Fox pricing is significantly lower for manufacturers and tailors than for the general public.

Yes of course MTO costs more per unit but (1) they don't have to hold any inventory for MTO, (2) it is more expensive than RTW so they must be passing the cost along to the customer?
 

othertravel

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
10,138
Reaction score
4,030
Don’t think they’d disclose such information (regarding 2nd question)

Sorry, I was actually joking. But it would be a hilarious conversation if you called them up to ask about their margins.

My best guess is that their margins are tight - the folks at NMWA once posted a breakdown of typical expenses in the fashion sector, and the resulting profit margins, surprisingly, aren't high.

That said, Canali offers a full canvass garment at a much cheaper price than Zegna, and they're both vertically integrated companies. And to make it more confusing, Canali garments have more handwork than Zegna mainline.

Tom Ford is another interesting beast. Zegna holds the licence for Tom Ford - i.e. Zegna is more than just the brand's maker. But you'll notice that although Tom Ford suits have features that set them apart from Zegna suits, they don't have much more handwork than typical mainline Zegna. The huge gap in price between the two labels seems to be due to Zegna needing to recoup the cost for the licence. (this is my best guess - please correct me if I'm wrong).
 

numberniner

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2020
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Sorry, I was actually joking. But it would be a hilarious conversation if you called them up to ask about their margins.

My best guess is that their margins are tight - the folks at NMWA once posted a breakdown of typical expenses in the fashion sector, and the resulting profit margins, surprisingly, aren't high.

That said, Canali offers a full canvass garment at a much cheaper price than Zegna, and they're both vertically integrated companies. And to make it more confusing, Canali garments have more handwork than Zegna mainline.

Tom Ford is another interesting beast. Zegna holds the licence for Tom Ford - i.e. Zegna is more than just the brand's maker. But you'll notice that although Tom Ford suits have features that set them apart from Zegna suits, they don't have much more handwork than typical mainline Zegna. The huge gap in price between the two labels seems to be due to Zegna needing to recoup the cost for the licence. (this is my best guess - please correct me if I'm wrong).
I’m kinda autistic so I probably would call them and ask 😂

Do you have a link to the breakdown?

Canali is very affordable for a full canvas suit (probably the most affordable). They have so many stores and employees which ultimately becomes the main cost portion of everything.

The new GQ magazine mentions Canali MTM has increased in demand by 130%. Seems like paid PR for the 90th anniversary.

Zegna only purchased TF recently and the prices seem relatively the same. Seems more so elitist status signalling.

The TF formula = celebrities on the red carpet wear a peak lapel tuxedo = more sales

Zegna is a bit more dry than that

There’s an interesting article explaining the manufacturing of Zegna and TF suits if you dig for it (I typed something like Tom Ford Zegna before:2012/12/12)

Anyway not to go on a tangent. It’d be interesting to know Husbands Revenue, best selling products and such.
 

clee1982

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
29,220
Reaction score
25,077
I wouldn't worry too much about any of that unless you want to launch your own business. I'm buying aesthetic, if you want cheap replicate, go for that Tiger of Sweden collab thing if it's still around, plus bunch 70s imitation are popping up these last few years now.

I buy TF (even to this day I still don't really see a Windsor copy despite how long it has been around) and Husbands for aesthetic choice, if you can't bite the bullet at retail, wait for eBay/sales I suppose.
 

othertravel

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
10,138
Reaction score
4,030
I wouldn't worry too much about any of that unless you want to launch your own business. I'm buying aesthetic, if you want cheap replicate, go for that Tiger of Sweden collab thing if it's still around, plus bunch 70s imitation are popping up these last few years now.

I buy TF (even to this day I still don't really see a Windsor copy despite how long it has been around) and Husbands for aesthetic choice, if you can't bite the bullet at retail, wait for eBay/sales I suppose.

Zegna launched a ‘Manhattan’ fit a few years ago that had a wide-peak and notch lapels - with pleated trousers. But it didn’t do well. It was nice, but couldn’t match the TF look. And it’s not like they can just fully copy the TF cut.
 

clee1982

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
29,220
Reaction score
25,077
There are a lot peak lapel suit out there (I'm like 80%+ peak lapel myself and like <5% of those are TF), but I guess Windsor is just not a very often copied look for whatever reason
 

Featured Sponsor

Invisible Socks: Convenience or Curse?

  • Convenience

  • Curse


Results are only viewable after voting.

Staff online

Forum statistics

Threads
511,693
Messages
10,634,485
Members
225,727
Latest member
smooth bernie
Top