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hungarian shoemaker

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by janne melkersson, Aug 13, 2007.

  1. janne melkersson

    janne melkersson Senior member

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  2. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    Cool videos. Janne, would you consider the techniques in the videos to be very similar to those you use yourself? Are there differences?
     
  3. janne melkersson

    janne melkersson Senior member

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    Grimslade,
    Glad you liked the videos!

    I was kind of surprised how similar his technique is to mine. I guess that it is because my master is from the south of Germany and I believe they make shoes pretty much the same way as in Hungary.

    The only difference I could see was the way he sharpened the knife! Sharpening knives is one of the most difficult thing to learn as an apprentice, or at least it was for me, I have never seen it done this way before. As shown on the video his method works fine.
     
  4. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I suppose, there is a third part still to come. He hasn’t even yet begun to attach the soles.

    The one thing, I found surprising, he made his shoes over a commercial last (moulded in plastic) without any modifications or adjustments
    (as far as I could see). Maybe the shoes are not bespoke, but a traditionally, hand-made range of RTW (rather like St Crispin's).

    Where is he based, in Budapest or in the Provinces? Couldn’t find that on the web-site.
     
  5. janne melkersson

    janne melkersson Senior member

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    he is located in Budapest but also in Liszt Ferenc Ter where clients can buy RTW shoes.
     
  6. MarcellHUN

    MarcellHUN Senior member

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    Dear All,

    First thanks Janne to put my videos link here!

    I am glad to answer your question about handmade bespoke men shoes.

    bengal-stripe: you are right, I work sometimes on pleastic, because it is much more durable than the tree ones. Tha fact that you don't see modifications, doesn't mean that they don't exist - if one customer order more shoes, I can get manufactured his own last for his size. The last factory can arrange staly, heel-height, width, etc. It takes approx 2 weeks.
     
  7. le.gentleman

    le.gentleman Senior member

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    Grimslade,
    Glad you liked the videos!

    I was kind of surprised how similar his technique is to mine. I guess that it is because my master is from the south of Germany and I believe they make shoes pretty much the same way as in Hungary.

    The only difference I could see was the way he sharpened the knife! Sharpening knives is one of the most difficult thing to learn as an apprentice, or at least it was for me, I have never seen it done this way before. As shown on the video his method works fine.


    Janne, who was your master ?
     
  8. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    These videos are excellent! I wish we had one of your typical factory-made British or Italian shoe so the members could see just how vastly different and more intensive this handmade process is.
     
  9. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Part 3 is up now:
    http://youtube.com/watch?v=c13m_kEll...elated&search=

    it shows stitching the welt. Interesting, Marcel uses a 360 degree welt, not (heel) 'breast to breast'.

    There probably are two more parts to come: showing sole attachment and finishing: wheeling the welt and cutting, shaping, dying of sole edge and heel.
     
  10. Fritz

    Fritz Senior member

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    Hello Marcel,
    these are great videos. How long does it take you to make a pair of shoes?

    From the summary of video 1:
    Perhaps you're short-selling yourself a little. I thought the Goodyear welts were done with a machine and not by hand as your shoes are?

    Best regards
     
  11. jkennett

    jkennett Senior member

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    Wonderful videos! How much do these shoes retail for?
     
  12. tiger02

    tiger02 Senior member

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    All, FYI "szabo" is Hungarian for "tailor." Just a funny coincidence, it's a really common name.

    he is located in Budapest but also in Liszt Ferenc Ter where clients can buy RTW shoes.
    Wait, really?
    Dear All,

    First thanks Janne to put my videos link here!

    I am glad to answer your question about handmade bespoke men shoes.

    bengal-stripe: you are right, I work sometimes on pleastic, because it is much more durable than the tree ones. Tha fact that you don't see modifications, doesn't mean that they don't exist - if one customer order more shoes, I can get manufactured his own last for his size. The last factory can arrange staly, heel-height, width, etc. It takes approx 2 weeks.


    Marcel, I'm on my way out to Liszt Ferenc in an hour or so. I'll try to stop in.

    Szia
    Tom
     
  13. janne melkersson

    janne melkersson Senior member

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    le.gentleman
    My main master was Herr Hubert Etwein auf Rotweil, Germany. He was the master of an private orthopeadic shop in Sweden which held a three years apprenticeship. Herr Etwein taught us about the foot and the lastmaking and we had another master, Herr Janis Snoj Slovenia, who taught us about the making.

    Marcel,
    You are welcome!
     
  14. MarcellHUN

    MarcellHUN Senior member

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    Thank you for your interest and questions!

    I try to answer for all of your questions.

    I don't use machines - you will see this from the next two parts (I plan to show later some other technologies too). I wouldn't dare to call my shoes "handmade" if I wouldn't make all steps by hand. You can buy excellent machine-made shoes (even with a hand-made sign on its sole [​IMG] ), but you can't compare them with a real hand-made one.

    A handmade shoe takes 3-4 days to finish and 10 more stay on the last. It suppose to keep the form for 20 years. (the machine-made shoes process' is 3-4 hours, maybe 1 day)

    I am not staying on Liszt Ferenc ter, so you don't need to go there, but you can contact me on my mail to have a shoe from me.

    The bespoke shoe price moves in wide range: it starts from 1000 USD* (Actualised to the actual price- 03.10.2007)

    Please feel free to ask, if you want to know more about these shoes. I am making new videos soon - the next one will come in this weekend.
     
  15. stickonatree

    stickonatree Senior member

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    marcel great shoes! do you have a lookbook anywhere of finished designs?
     
  16. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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  17. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Senior member

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    Excellent videos. Thanks to the shoemaker.
     
  18. MarcellHUN

    MarcellHUN Senior member

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  19. MarcellHUN

    MarcellHUN Senior member

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    I would like to comment also, but as I am not a native speaker (and far away from that) it would be more funny than useful.
    Tim's videos are very good - the method is a bit different (cemented - goodyear), but the basis is the same.
     
  20. william

    william Senior member

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    Those look great! Do you take remote orders?
     

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