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Hugh and Crye - a mini review

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Lucan, Feb 24, 2016.

  1. Lucan

    Lucan Senior member

    Messages:
    196
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2012
    Location:
    UK
    I recently asked if anyone had experience of Hugh and Crye shirts, and there was no response, so I bit the bullet and went for it, so here is a mini review. This is really part 1, and I'll try and do a part 2 after I've worn the shirt a few times. Apologies in advance for the lack of photography skills, and for my scruffy jeans (working from home today).
    https://www.hughandcrye.com/

    Background
    I am UK-based, and in the past have worn TM Lewin John Francomb Fully Fitted or Charles Tyrwhitt Extra Slim Fit 16" Neck 36" Sleeve shirts. Lewin changed the collars on the Francombs to one I didn't like, and Tyrwhitts have massive arm holes and cuffs for people with about a 10" wrist, even on their ESF shirts. I have purchased from Kamakura (New York Slim) and love them, but wanted an alternative place to buy. I have nothing to do with Hugh and Crye and am writing this review without their knowledge/blessing.

    Sizing
    This is the big difference with Hugh and Crye, they have adopted an entirely different approach to sizing, so you choose Tall, Average or Short, and then choose Skinny, Slim, Athletic or Broad. It's explained here - https://www.hughandcrye.com/pages/fit. It's all a bit different, but I seemed to be a Tall Slim in their books, so thought I'd give it a whirl.

    Ordering and Pricing
    Ordering was pretty easy, you choose your size and they show the shirts that are available. I just wanted a classic pale blue business shirt. Unlike Kamakura, where it seems you have to get lucky to get the shirt you want, there seemed good stock of everything, and plenty of choice on collars. Here's the shirt I chose, and it was $95:
    https://www.hughandcrye.com/collections/classic-shirts/products/kent-blue

    Includes MOP buttons, Brass stays, 120s cotton. $95 seems a reasonable price, though there's plenty to add to that for us UK peeps, but that's a different matter.

    Unpacking
    Some pictures, below, including the friendly note:
    test[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    First Impressions

    Collar - looks taller than I normally wear, but looks rather smart, and is a nice spread. Not too much or too little. Much stiffer construction than an Kamakura, very similar to Tyrwhitt in that respect.
    Cuffs - these are the biggest disappointment to me (though a sacrifice I was aware of in advance), as I don't like square single cuffs. Would be much better to have a nice curved one like Kamakura.
    Stitching - seems pretty good to my untrained eye. All nice and sharp.
    Cotton - seems reasonably smooth, but difficult to tell until washed and worn. We'll have to come back to this in part 2.
    The shirts don't have a split yoke, but I've always thought that to be a complete waste of time anyway.

    Fit (pre-washing and wearing)
    This was a key point to me, and the initial results are looking really good. The shirt is nicely slim through the waist and arms, but with enough room in the shoulders (note this is Slim rather than Skinny, so this is how it should be). I was pleased to see there were no darts in the back of the shirt. Slim fit has been achieved through a proper cut rather than just darting a bigger shirt. There are a couple of pleats in the back to help movement, and the armholes are pretty reasonable.


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    Final Photo
    Final photo complete with Jacket and Tie. Apologies to the red-tie-haters, but it was closest to hand.
    [​IMG]
     

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