Huge Drop -- Help?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Random987, Sep 16, 2006.

  1. Random987

    Random987 Member

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    I wear a size 48 jacket and have a 37/38 inch waist, am I doomed to separates or MTM?

    If doomed to separates, what are the best quality separates out there?

    Also, how much of a change is waist size would you be comfortable in getting from a tailor? For example, if I found a size 42 pant, would it be out of the question to tailor it to a 37/38" waist?

    Thanks
     


  2. alflauren

    alflauren Senior member

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    I have a roughly 10" drop as well. (40S/30). Here's what I've done:

    First off, not all jackets that are marked as the same size actually are the same size. Some are cut much fuller, some are almost too small. So try and find a fuller cut jacket in the next size down. Then you're only looking at an 8" drop, and a tailor can knock two inches off of the pants. In my experience, if the pants are anything more than two inches too big, it just doesn't work.

    I haven't gone the separates route so I can't speak to that. I think MTM is definitely a good way to go, but be sure that you get what you ask for. In my first MTM suit, I let the tailor talk me into getting something, size-wise, that I really wasn't happy with. I wanted a tighter fit, but instead got a sack made out of beautiful fabric. The major entry-level MTM groups (Coppley, etc.) cater to a standard American style, and you need to be specific if you don't want that.

    Alternatively, try a traveling tailor like W.W. Chan. A search on this board will show many people who use tailors like that.
     


  3. Random987

    Random987 Member

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    Thanks for the advice. Mytailor.com is going to be in Scottsdale in October. I may give them a shot, although the reviews have been mixed.



    Alternatively, try a traveling tailor like W.W. Chan. A search on this board will show many people who use tailors like that.
     


  4. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    Also, how much of a change is waist size would you be comfortable in getting from a tailor? For example, if I found a size 42 pant, would it be out of the question to tailor it to a 37/38" waist?


    A good tailor could re-cut the trousers but it would be relatively expensive and finding a tailor up to the task can be problematic.
     


  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    How tolerant are you of the results?

    Qualified custom tailor making your garment in house. You should be 100% satisfied.

    No matter what price point suit you buy RTW, you will be much happier going MTM and should find the MTM results much, much better than altering an off the rack suit. MTM pricing is all over the board and can be found at every level. Add the alteration price onto your RTW garment. MTM adds value and you can stay close to the same price points as RTW. The skill level of the order taker is critical here. Be measure by a expierienced tailor.

    Altering a RTW jacket is limited. You cannot take the jacket in where needed. Only on the back and side seams. The fronts will generally look big compared to the rest of jacket. The trouser will only fit and look good if the fronts are recut. This usually means remaking the front pockets or fly. The rise is lower on a 37 waist than a 42, so everything needs adjusting to be right. The legs will be fuller from the 42 waist than the 37 waist so the proportion is affected. It really is remaking the trouser.
     


  6. Mike C.

    Mike C. Senior member

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    Polo is having a MTM event right now where they wave the cutting fee, so it's the same as RTW prices. I'd look into Chan as well if that's your speed, however I haven't seen anything good come from there.
     


  7. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    If you're fairly tall, Random, you and I could probably swap clothes!

    I have commissioned one suit and three jackets from W.W. Chan and been very satisfied. I am awaiting another jacket from Chan at this time and looking forward to ordering yet another on their November tour.

    Hemrajani/Mytailor has received a fair amount of favorable mention in these fora, and you might consider giving them a try if they're more convenient for you.

    "Budget bespoke" might be your best route if the tariff for a top-quality bespoke tailor is steep for your budget, as it is for mine.
     


  8. Jovan

    Jovan Banned for Good

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    Polo is having a MTM event right now where they wave the cutting fee, so it's the same as RTW prices. I'd look into Chan as well if that's your speed, however I haven't seen anything good come from there.
    I think you mean waive. [​IMG] Contrariwise, I think you've failed to notice the number of great garments coming from Chan on SF...
     


  9. Random987

    Random987 Member

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    6' -- been hitting the weights lately, so i've pretty broad chest/shoulders/arms. Working on the abs!

    If I went with Mytailor, I know they have a deal on 3 suits for ______ depending upon the material. I know they offer Zegna, Lora Piana fabric. Is it worthwhile to use this fabric, or would it be smarter to stick with Super 120's?

    Also, let's assume I want to replace my current budget suit selection and start fresh. I imagine the best choice of three suits would be Charcoal, Navy Pinstripe and ________ (grey, olive or tan?).


    If you're fairly tall, Random, you and I could probably swap clothes!

    I have commissioned one suit and three jackets from W.W. Chan and been very satisfied. I am awaiting another jacket from Chan at this time and looking forward to ordering yet another on their November tour.

    Hemrajani/Mytailor has received a fair amount of favorable mention in these fora, and you might consider giving them a try if they're more convenient for you.

    "Budget bespoke" might be your best route if the tariff for a top-quality bespoke tailor is steep for your budget, as it is for mine.
     


  10. Bic Pentameter

    Bic Pentameter Senior member

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    I am pretty much sold on made to measure, but that is a choice I have made based on the price I am comfortable paying, the value I believe I get from the process, and the fact that I seem to be very very hard on my suits.

    I have never tried it, and my recollection may be faulty, but I *think* I remember some posters saying that they had gone to their local department store (Nordstrom?) 9 months before the season started and ordering a suit from the manufacturer that came with an unusual drop. Of course, the paid full retail, but you might consider asking your local department store if this is possible for you.
     


  11. coatandthai

    coatandthai Senior member

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    6' -- been hitting the weights lately, so i've pretty broad chest/shoulders/arms. Working on the abs!

    I lay off the pecs for this exact reason. I save 2" on the pecs and I can wear off the rack suit with only moderate tailoring and I don't have that weightlifter look that big pecs give you. I can probably lat-pull or even curl more than I can bench.
     


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