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How Would You Rank These 7 Shoe Brands?

Jerry52

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Originally Posted by Christofuh
If you speak zee German you can phone Vass directly, and explore what they can do for you. Additionally, they've got dealers in Austria and Germany who might be of help.
This is as much info concerning Vass as I can reveal. The rest is classified

Nope, sometimes speaking the best English is challenge enough for me, LOL!
But I might hold open the possibility of emailing Vass headquarters for advice. They probably have someone there who can read English.

Jerry
 

marc237

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Originally Posted by zjpj83
1. Vass
2. Santoni FAM (handmade)
3. Alden
4. Moreschi
5. Gravati and Mezlan
6. Pliner (never heard of them)


I respectfully disagree as to the ranking of Gravati. I would place above Moreschi and way above Mezlan. I find much of the Mezlan line to be no better and often worse than AE. The Gravatis I own (4 pair) are far more substantial, have higher quality leather, and are more aesthetically pleasing. The Moreschi are fine shoes, but seem not quite at the Gravati level.
 

Jerry52

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Originally Posted by marc237
I respectfully disagree as to the ranking of Gravati. I would place above Moreschi and way above Mezlan. I find much of the Mezlan line to be no better and often worse than AE. The Gravatis I own (4 pair) are far more substantial, have higher quality leather, and are more aesthetically pleasing. The Moreschi are fine shoes, but seem not quite at the Gravati level.
It was interesting to hear your feelings about Gravati. The only real negative I've heard (and more than once) is that they are somewhat "lighter" made shoes, suggesting maybe thinner leather? But I've never seen them in person so can't comment myself. You are also the second person I've read who has given a slight quality edge to Gravati over Moreschi, which is interesting. I do think some of the Moreschi styles online look nice, but that doesn't address how well they're made or their comfort. Again, I've never seen them in person.

Jerry
 

norcaltransplant

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Aesthetically, Alden & Vass can be considered in one camp with the Italians, save a few Santonis, falling into the lightweight Italian design philosophy.

Mezlan and Pliner are the most entry level brands of the shoes you listed. Pliner are either glued or blake stiched, retail for upwards of $200+, and aren't much better than the stuff sold at BR. Mezlan are at least reasonably constructed, though the materials are budget minded and less comfortable than the more expensive alternatives.

Moreschi and Gravati ares similar in their construction and materials. Both use lightweight leather interlinings and blake construction which leads to a highly flexible, thin soled, sleeker shoe. If you equate the weight of Aldens with quality, then these aren't the shoes for you. Gravati get the edge for more conservative designs and slightly better lasting. Both companies provide a closer toebox through the heel and toe box than their American counterparts.
 

marc237

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Originally Posted by norcaltransplant

Moreschi and Gravati ares similar in their construction and materials. Both use lightweight leather interlinings and blake construction which leads to a highly flexible, thin soled, sleeker shoe. If you equate the weight of Aldens with quality, then these aren't the shoes for you. Gravati get the edge for more conservative designs and slightly better lasting. Both companies provide a closer toebox through the heel and toe box than their American counterparts.


Largely agree. However, I have two pairs of very substantial Gravati. One is a wonderful dark brown split toe on a double-sole. The other is a more conservative slip-on, but still subtantial.
 

norcaltransplant

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Originally Posted by marc237
Largely agree. However, I have two pairs of very substantial Gravati. One is a wonderful dark brown split toe on a double-sole. The other is a more conservative slip-on, but still subtantial.

Which shop ordered the commission? BG, who stocks Gravati definitely have a mix of styles. Korshak and Cenci both prefer the lightweight versions, and Franco's seems/seemed to have pretty wide range of styles. As JCusey has stated in the past, Gravati gets the nod for providing one of the most flexible design and production programs among the Italian makers for their eponymous labeled shoes.
 

Jerry52

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Originally Posted by marc237
Largely agree. However, I have two pairs of very substantial Gravati. One is a wonderful dark brown split toe on a double-sole. The other is a more conservative slip-on, but still subtantial.

Norcaltransplant suggested that if I like the "weight" of Alden, then I'd be disappointed by most Moreschi or Gravati, so I'm just curious if you, marc, have had a chance to compare your heavier Gravati to a typical Alden, and what was the comparison like? Are your heavier-weight Gravatis current or a few years old? Maybe they've recently cheapened the grade???

Jerry
 

Jerry52

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Originally Posted by norcaltransplant
Aesthetically, Alden & Vass can be considered in one camp with the Italians, save a few Santonis, falling into the lightweight Italian design philosophy.

Mezlan and Pliner are the most entry level brands of the shoes you listed. Pliner are either glued or blake stiched, retail for upwards of $200+, and aren't much better than the stuff sold at BR. Mezlan are at least reasonably constructed, though the materials are budget minded and less comfortable than the more expensive alternatives.

Moreschi and Gravati ares similar in their construction and materials. Both use lightweight leather interlinings and blake construction which leads to a highly flexible, thin soled, sleeker shoe. If you equate the weight of Aldens with quality, then these aren't the shoes for you. Gravati get the edge for more conservative designs and slightly better lasting. Both companies provide a closer toebox through the heel and toe box than their American counterparts.

I guess of all the comments you made Norcaltransplant the one about more cramped fit than the American shoes would worry me the most...is that a general characteristic of most Italian, Spanish and English shoes versus the Aldens or Allen-Edmonds?

Jerry
 

maboubakr

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I tried only Santoni and Moreschi...Both are awesome shoes..I rate Santoni higher....
 

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