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Omnibus Women's designer fashion thread

heebalabala

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Fair.

I suppose I'm slightly frustrated at what seemed (to me) like a potentially good thread to discuss women's fashion, and the last six months have been mostly CM guys coming in here to say "bewbs."

I wish this thread had a different title, like "Discussions of Women's Fashion." As is, it's not terribly interesting to read a thread on a fashion forum that's peppered with comments about how someone doesn't care about fashion. Or really banal comments like "good body is all you need."
I wish the word "woman" was used instead of "girl" in this thread title. It's also unfortunate that some (many?) view the thread through the lens of the male gaze instead of attractive or interesting style/fashion.

I dig what you share on this thread, @dieworkwear -- interesting stuff, and know it's appreciated. The fit models are attractive, sure, but not here for the hot babes. Also appreciate you sharing the personal styles of real women (e.g., Georgia) that interest you.
 
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Drek Galloche

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Most of Celine looks made me think of : This woman's job is to take XXL plastic trash bags to the dumpster at a meet processing factory. Not sure if that was the intent of the Celine design team.
It is sad as Celine is French brand and supposed to have more nuance in how they present themselves yet Celine team thinks these random baggy pieces thrown together represent a 'personality' or 'personal style' French women so famous for. Slimane has never been a good designer and he is still faking it at his ripe age...
 

Mr Knightley

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Replying belatedly to @dieworkwear , I enjoy this thread very much. Perhaps the name of the thread could usefully be changed, but it's not an issue for me.

As someone who spends more time on the CM boards, I suppose I have not posted pictures here simply because it's on SW&D and I felt my potential contributions may be 'out of step'. I had not really considered that the thread was also popular with other CM posters...
 

peachfuzzmcgee

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Honestly the more out there my wife dresses, the more I like the way she dresses. She can be a bit more self conscious then me however, I think dressing to look "good" is mad boring. Dressing for fun is way more interesting. My wife chooses some cool stuff even though her clothes budget dwarves her pen and stationary budget.
 

sipang

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Can't exactly pinpoint why but those Georgia O'Keeffe pics always give me strong late 90s Hermès-Marty Marg era vibes (though iirc Lemaire is the one that had the more openly western-themed collection with the gaucho hats etc, but it was also a clear continuation of the MM stuff).
There's probably something in the art direction of the brand/Le Monde d'Hermès at the time that's echoing Stielgitz's photography but I think the clothes themselves share that deceptive minimalist (quirky?) quality.
To make this CM-compatible, wasn't she also a regular customer at Knize at some point?



Louise Nevelson is like O'Keeffe's maximalist counterpart, would fit right in

Louise Nevelson was taken in 1974 in Nevelson's home in Manhattan. One of Mitchell's most beau...jpg


Nevelson_Portrait_2 - Pedro E. Guerrero.jpg


Louise Nevelson beaton 1978.png
 

double00

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Fair.

I suppose I'm slightly frustrated at what seemed (to me) like a potentially good thread to discuss women's fashion, and the last six months have been mostly CM guys coming in here to say "bewbs."

I wish this thread had a different title, like "Discussions of Women's Fashion." As is, it's not terribly interesting to read a thread on a fashion forum that's peppered with comments about how someone doesn't care about fashion. Or really banal comments like "good body is all you need."

stieglitz did publish a bunch of nudes of georgia o'keefe. or maybe the human body is not fashionable ?
 

sipang

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One of O'Keeffe Knize-made jackets (I think) c.1950

As a side note, flapped breast pockets need to come back,they're virtually non-existent today except on that contentious RL polo coat design. I have a suit with one, very snazzy.


BlogImage6-22-1200x630.jpg


georgiaokeeffe_22_23.jpg







Cape time

Zoe de Salle, c.1940


222.png


333.png


444.jpg
 

dieworkwear

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To make this CM-compatible, wasn't she also a regular customer at Knize at some point?

On the O'Keefe Museum's website, they've cataloged some of the artist's personal possession, including her clothes. And among them, I think the most common label is Knize




Seemingly, they had so few women as clients, they simply amended their usual label with an "s" at the end of the Mr.

download (1).png




When I look back at these old fashion stories, it strikes me how many people used the same tailors and shoemakers. And yet, when you look at those firms today, they seem like a shell of their former selves. I don't think the output nowadays is as good. Have not used Knize, but mostly thinking about Savile Row and West End firms. I feel like all the good work nowadays is being done by independents, not those big firms that previously dressed such stars.
 

sipang

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@dieworkwear In your opinion are there longstanding and still active firms (stores,brands,...) out there today that somehow escape that fate?

I'm not at all well acquainted with the industry so I might be spewing bullshit but...
One one hand, an overall downgrade spiral seems almost inevitable to me given the pretty starkly different landscape of today. I mean, something had to give at some point....
One the other hand, there's also so much romanticisation and second hand knowledge whirling about nowadays I feel it's pretty hard to get a clear picture of where things stand re: output quality (also, what is quality?...) unless you're a long time customer and/or someone with serious historical knowledge that can give you some needed perspective.
 
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dieworkwear

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@dieworkwear In your opinion are there longstanding and still active firms (stores,brands,...) out there today that somehow escape that fate?

I'm not at all well acquainted with the industry so I might be spewing bullshit but...
One one hand, an overall downgrade spiral seems almost inevitable to me given the pretty starkly different landscape of today. I mean, something had to give at some point....
One the other hand, there's also so much romanticisation and second hand knowledge whirling about nowadays I feel it's pretty hard to get a clear picture of where things stand re: output quality (also, what is quality?...) unless you're a long time customer and/or someone with serious historical knowledge that can give you some needed perspective.

If we're talking about those big, famous firms that used to dress high-society types from the 1930s through '80s or so, I think all of those firms are kind of lackluster nowadays. They've all become brands. It feels like, as real estate costs have soared, many of these places have had to shift towards ready-to-wear to pay for costs.

I've also heard from some tailors and shoemakers that there aren't enough skilled people anymore in this trade. Since big firms produce a much larger volume than smaller firms, the argument is that they can no longer keep up quality standards. (Big firms meaning only the big craft-based, bespoke type firms versus the smaller ones).

I've also heard the theory you laid out: the internet has made customers more educated and you can't get away with much nowadays. Back in the day, if a tailor delivered a bad garment, the customer had no recourse but to shrug. But nowadays, that person can go on the internet to complain, which puts a spotlight on bad modern work.

I don't really know the truth of the matter. I've used two "big" names and walked away very disappointed with the work. I've also had candid conversations with friends who have used Huntsman and Gieves & Hawkes, and they were similarly disappointed. The stories I hear are very unique to the companies -- one firm might suffer from a bad manager, another firm might be struggling to find skilled workers. But the quality of the work is so spotty and/ or outright bad, it's sometimes hard to believe these places once dressed such stylish people.
 
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Vulpes Vulpes

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Clothes by definition both obscure and reveal.

Generally, women do not crave male attention. They, like you, want expression, comfort, and utility.

Dieworkwear's contributions to this thread are always excellent. Baggy & anti-fit has been in for awhile now. Die's pix are that but much more considered.

If you want sexy, go elsewhere. Reddit, maybe?
This thread's nuance is much better than some crass come-on.

Die, please keep posting- I'm not only one who's thrilled when this thread gets a thoughtful update.
 

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