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How to wear waistcoats

sho'nuff

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So with my new found interest in suits these days I have been keenly interested in the look of the wearing of a waistcoat with a suit.
Now I don't own a 3 piece (yet. The rlpl sale on gilt featured a magnificent glen plaid 3piece in wool cashmere). But how would I go about purchasing the correct odd waistcoat for my 2-piece suits and how to wear them?

Can we have a discussion on things like:
What color / fabric is aesthetic and/acceptable for a navy or grey suit? Pinstripes and windowpanes? Does the waistcoat need to be solid when wearing these designs?
Does the vest always have to be darker than the suit if odd?

How fit does it need to be? Should it be like a corset, or loose, or are there differing ways depending on style of suit?

I know daytime vests are traditionally more buttons and covers the chest more while formal nighttime ones are to be deeper in the neck opening. Can these be interchangeable?

I know it is traditionally incorrect to wear a belt with a waistcoat but do you sfers do it sometimes to decent effect?

When to wear a single-breasted waistcoat and when to wear a double-breasted one. Do you wear like per like in suit? Can you wear a sb vest with a db suit or vice versa?

Thanks
 

Zenny

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1. The main thing is that there must be a contrast between the suit and the waistcoat, and you can go by the same rules as oddjacket-pant matching.

2. I usually have the fit of the waistcoat follow the lines of the suit, so it tends to lie better under the suit, so they are generally more fitted than a suit, but not lycra tight.

3. Formal vests should never be worn in casual settings, much like casual vests should be worn in formal settings. You don't wear a blazer to a black tie event much like you don't wear a tuxedo to work everyday. There are some vests that bridge this gap but they are still too casual (in my book) to be "formal"

4. In my opinion it is fine to wear a belt or braces with a waistcoat, but an observer shouldn't be able to tell that you have a belt on (due to the waistcoat covering the waistband), thus the belt buckle should be very low profile.

5. DB or SB vests is personal preference, and I believe they can be worn anyway one pleases.
 

ManofKent

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I'm a regular waistcoat wearer with sportscoats (see WhatYouAreWearing.. ). Other than a 3-piece I haven't worn a waistcoat with a suit, only sportscoats. I'm a fan of traditional doeskin waistcoats, but you might find them a bit too English looking. Braces are fine under a waistcoat, but I've always found belts create to obvious a bulge. Fit should be close but not skin tight (a bit like a good shirt).
 

globetrotter

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I have dark blue, dark gray, very very dark gray, dark maroon odd vests. I want to add to that a yellow one. I wear them with solid and striped dark blue and gray suits.
 

eg1

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My odd vests include mid-grey (a worsted and a flannel), charcoal, camel, cream and a black/green plaid.
 

ysc

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Would it be ok to wear a suit with a similar coloured but very different textured waistcoat?
I am really curios because I want to try a navy "knitted waistcoat" (basically a sleeveless cardigan) with a navy suit.
 

Manton

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I like odd vests to be ligher -- a lot lighter, usually -- than the coat. Navy is the one exception, with light gray.

The only tailored odd vest I have is suede. Otherwise, I wear sweater vests.

Tailored vests should be verging on tight, closer fitted than a shirt, if you ask me. Suspenders and high waist trousers only. I will wear sweater vests with a belt, though.
 

eg1

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I'll wear a sleeveless cardigan (charcoal or yellow) under a sportcoat as a kind of knit vest, but never under a suit. I don't have any sweater vests (ie. without buttons)
 

rdawson808

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Any recommendations on where to buy odd waistcoats? My only two are the third pieces in 3 piece suits.

b
 

Manton

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There are specialty vest shops in the UK like Favourbrooke that sell online. Otherwise try Ben Silver.

$800 for a RTW vest is insane, You can do better than that on Savile Row, especially with the low pound.
 

reason_being

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I was going to ask this very same question, awesome. Thanks for the info.
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Albern

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I'm also starting to get into odd waistcoats and 3 piece suits.

Just as an idea generator how do you feel about ones with lapels? I'm not too familiar with the rules that govern vests with and without lapels; anyone care to enlighten us on this?

I usually see the non-lapel variety which essentially draws my attention to something like this:

http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/...r-db-vest.html
 

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