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(Manton) Bascically, two pieces of shirting cotton are heat-glued and then pressed flat at extremely high temperatures on either side of a piece of stiffish (but not as stiff as suit canvas) cotton interlining. The result is that three pieces of cloth feel and perform like one.
(Manton) In my experience, no good shirtmaker fuses cuffs (unless the customer asks for it). Many will fuse collars, but only a handful do it really well.
Have to disagree with Manton, although I am not disagreeing on the substance of it; simple the surrounding facts.Also, unfused collars and cuffs are harder to iron, and really need to be done by hand. If an unfused shirt is pressed by a commercial laundry, 99% of the time, fairly serious wrinkles will pressed in to the collar and cuffs, usually near the edge stitching. Good hand pressing won't have that, because the presser will slowly smooth those wrinkles out.
(Manton) I don't know of any bespoke shirtmakers who routinely fuse cuffs. Collars, about half do, half don't.
Not true. It is easier to make a bad fused collar.It is eaiser to make a fused collar then a non fused.
Carl