- Nov 9, 2004
- Reaction score
With all the talk about fused suits/sport coats i was wondering how to tell if a shirts collar or cuffs are fused? What are the pros/cons of fusing vs non-fused?
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For fused collars, the fabric of the outer part of the collar leaf, and the interlining, are fused together. The "bottom" of the collar leaf, the side on which the collar stay pockets can (usually) be found, is not fused unless it's somehow a doublesided fusible or a second layer of fusible is inserted in the collar. For collar bands, the better and more common practice among shirtmakers is to fuse the fabric of the outer collar band and the interlining together.(Manton) Bascically, two pieces of shirting cotton are heat-glued and then pressed flat at extremely high temperatures on either side of a piece of stiffish (but not as stiff as suit canvas) cotton interlining. The result is that three pieces of cloth feel and perform like one.
Almost no British shirtmakers fuse collars. French Charvet does not. Lanvin does fuse its collars. Most Italian shirtmakers fuse collars by default. Italian collars tend to be thinner and "flatter," British-style collars tend to be "thicker."(Manton) In my experience, no good shirtmaker fuses cuffs (unless the customer asks for it). Many will fuse collars, but only a handful do it really well.
Have to disagree with Manton, although I am not disagreeing on the substance of it; simple the surrounding facts.Also, unfused collars and cuffs are harder to iron, and really need to be done by hand. If an unfused shirt is pressed by a commercial laundry, 99% of the time, fairly serious wrinkles will pressed in to the collar and cuffs, usually near the edge stitching. Good hand pressing won't have that, because the presser will slowly smooth those wrinkles out.
Earlier I didn't read the first part properly. That said, unless it's a folding cuff (e.g. French/double cuff or 007-style cocktail cuff) there's no reason not to fuse.(Manton) I don't know of any bespoke shirtmakers who routinely fuse cuffs. Collars, about half do, half don't.
Not true. It is easier to make a bad fused collar.It is eaiser to make a fused collar then a non fused.