First, I would like to introduce myself since I am new to this forum - plus my question is closely related to my personal circumstances. I am a 19 year old (just turned 19 in fact) guy from Germany, living in a small town close to Bonn (former capital city of Germany). Currently I am attending the "gymnasiale Oberstufe" (I always thought it funny to see German terms in English texts), the last step before going to university. I am interested in clothes since about two years now, I would rather not mention what I wore before. I am mostly interested in what I see as classical, elegant and discreet clothes - combined with a hint of casualness this is my understanding of sartorial perfection. Since I am quite a young man I hope to profit greatly from all you old wise men, your experiences and knowledge. The diversity of the topics as well as the politeness and expertise of the answers made my decision to join an easy one. Now, to come to my problem: as the title of the topic implies, my budget is somewhat limited. To be exact, my monthly income amounts to a little more than 100 Euro (more or less the same in dollars). This is obviously not enough to buy half of the shirts, sports jackets, ties and suits I would like to (and that would be only the halfway rational dreams, not including dressing solely in Kiton). But since moaning will probably not solve the problem as well I would like to know how you would handle such a small budget (or how you handled it in your past, or do in present). One obviously has to set priorities - the question is just which ones. My wardrobe currently consists of: - about half a dozen dress shirts (white, pale blue, pale pink) and some sport shirts (none of them costing more than 30 â‚¬, most of them bought for half price at sales) - two cravats, one blue, one red (my most recent acquisitions, beautiful they are, I am really proud of them - both 50 â‚¬) - no real suit, just a combination of grey jacket and black pants (jacket inherited but well-fitting, pants by Boss (does anyone know?), 100 â‚¬) - two sports jackets: brown herringbone tweed for winter, black linen/(I am ashamed to say it)viscose for summer, half-lined. 120 and 80 â‚¬ - one beige, one black chino, beige linen pants for summer; winter: black, brown and beige cord pants - two "serious" pairs of shoes (that is, besides sneakers): brown moccasins (a beautiful shade, hard to find but worth it) and black Oxfords, both around 100 â‚¬ - a black wool overcoat for winter, none for summer (tried this season to find a trench, but could not find a nice and affordable one) about 100 â‚¬ as well (cannot really remember, had been a gift) The prices I listed not to boast with them (which is harldy possible) but to show you how my priorities were up to now. But my budget is not my only problem, my stature is as well a little complicated. I am quite tall (193 cm or 6.3 feet) have rather broad shoulders (120 cm/47 inch, former martial artist) but my waist is very slim (80cm/31 inch). So most jackets either fit my shoulders or my waist - rarely both. Plus my arms are quite long, so I have to get extra long shirt sleeves and I feel like they are never on sale. Jacket sleeve length is the only thing I have no real problem with since most of the RTW jackets have sleeves too long, they fit me well. The same applies to pants: 94 (European size) is the right width for me, 98 the right length. The black suit pants, for example, I took in 94 and had them lenghtened - but that is an expensive hobby. I hope I haven' bored you too much, not made too much (spelling, grammar, whatever) mistakes and that you have either the same/a similiar problem and/or a solution or good advice for me. Yours sincerely, Mr Sand PS: this post had originally been posted at the FilmNoirBuff Forum, but FilmNoirBuff recommended to post it here as well, for the target audience might be better suited to help my needs - so here it is.