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Are you referring to the pick stitching at the border of the lapel? It's fairly common, though less so now than 3-4 years ago when it was a trendy feature in the same way as selvedge seams on denim (which trickled all the way from exclusive Japanese denim to the GAP sale racks in just a few years), and you should be able to find it at just about any price point.
Yes, I guess wrinkling or puckering are the best words. I think it looks really good and are just wondering how this is achieved.Looks like fabric wrinkling to me, not bulkiness necessarily. Something I have seen on Kiton jackets. Maybe it's an Italian lapel finishing, like the spalla camicia
The shadows exaggerated the effect from pick stitching, I think. If the puckering was so prominent in real life it wouldn't actually be desirable.
So if the jacket is canvassed and pitch stitched, it will have a little wrinkling on the lapels? Does the pitch stitching have to be done by hand?
That jacket actually looks terrible and no decent tailor would have released it from his work room. It can be done be either machine or hand, the latter is preferable but given that RTW factories like to copy things, machines now do it in such places. The problem with a machine is that it looks too even and it cannot mimic the minute variations of a hand [process.
Pretty sure it's made by Chan