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How to get lapels to look like this?

the north

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I was just wondering how to achieve lapels to look like this? I'm thinking about how the fabric looks sort of wavy. I've searched the web, but I'm not really sure what to search for.. Thank you!
 

GoldenTribe

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Are you referring to the pick stitching at the border of the lapel? It's fairly common, though less so now than 3-4 years ago when it was a trendy feature in the same way as selvedge seams on denim (which trickled all the way from exclusive Japanese denim to the GAP sale racks in just a few years), and you should be able to find it at just about any price point.
 

McBindle

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You could study this technique for sewing and you might get the desired effect.
Iroh is a wealth of information on these matters.
Iroh, if you are out there could you please explain how you would tackle the OP's question?
 

Claghorn

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I think he's talking about the puckering.
 

the north

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Are you referring to the pick stitching at the border of the lapel? It's fairly common, though less so now than 3-4 years ago when it was a trendy feature in the same way as selvedge seams on denim (which trickled all the way from exclusive Japanese denim to the GAP sale racks in just a few years), and you should be able to find it at just about any price point.
Thank you for your answer. I'm not referring to the border of the lapels, but the "bulkiness" a little further towards the middle. I have tried to mark what I mean in the picture below. This might be a result of pitch-stitching?
 

JubeiSpiegel

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Looks like fabric wrinkling to me, not bulkiness necessarily. Something I have seen on Kiton jackets. Maybe it's an Italian lapel finishing, like the spalla camicia :confused:
 

Ebichuman

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The shadows exaggerated the effect from pick stitching, I think. If the puckering was so prominent in real life it wouldn't actually be desirable.
 

the north

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Looks like fabric wrinkling to me, not bulkiness necessarily. Something I have seen on Kiton jackets. Maybe it's an Italian lapel finishing, like the spalla camicia
Yes, I guess wrinkling or puckering are the best words. I think it looks really good and are just wondering how this is achieved.


The shadows exaggerated the effect from pick stitching, I think. If the puckering was so prominent in real life it wouldn't actually be desirable.

So if the jacket is canvassed and pitch stitched, it will have a little wrinkling on the lapels? Does the pitch stitching have to be done by hand?
 
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Ebichuman

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The lapels on a well done canvassed jacket will be more three dimensional than the sorry flat ones that we often see but again, the amount of puckering shown in the photo is just too much and in my eyes it borders on looking like something is not right.

Regarding your other question: I don't know if there would be a difference between machine or hand stitch, sorry.
 

GBR

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That jacket actually looks terrible and no decent tailor would have released it from his work room. It can be done be either machine or hand, the latter is preferable but given that RTW factories like to copy things, machines now do it in such places. The problem with a machine is that it looks too even and it cannot mimic the minute variations of a hand [process.
 

conradwu

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That jacket actually looks terrible and no decent tailor would have released it from his work room. It can be done be either machine or hand, the latter is preferable but given that RTW factories like to copy things, machines now do it in such places. The problem with a machine is that it looks too even and it cannot mimic the minute variations of a hand [process.
Pretty sure it's made by Chan
 

Wayward

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That's from a bad pressing job, and generally a sign of something gone wrong. The pick stitching is too tight in relation to the lapel's outer layer, creating the wavy puckering. I also remember reading somewhere it could also be caused by pressing the lapel in an awkward direction. It has nothing to do with the maker, unless they explicitly had sewn the pick stitching too tightly in the first place.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/21807/puckered-lapels
http://www.styleforum.net/t/120754/puckering-around-pick-stitching-of-lapels-how-to-fix

To "achieve" the look, I guess you'll just have to do what jefferyd recommends against, which is steaming the lapel without applying pressure to it.
 
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