How do I get the straight-line drape on trousers? I ask because I wear all of my pants too tight and too low. I am considering a made to measure suit and I want to make sure a have a ballpark idea of how pants should fit so I can correct any glaring mistakes while being measured. How much room should i have around the hips, thighs, knees? How do I determine how wide the hem should be to fit properly around my shoe? Thanks!