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How to dress well in CM without standing out too much

Stylewords

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Is it that bad? Hehe. Jacket is covering butt though, but I get your point. Would probably fit better in SWD. Combined with some jeans and boots.
I disagree with the other poster. I think the jacket looks great and works well in making a tailored look more casual. Better than the other nondescript casual jacket.
 

comrade

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e4e3fb3ead08b33cfa4c170e2134a3d9.jpg


Maybe it's the physiognomy, but these guys look like they have some
Camorra connections. Otherwise, well put together.
 

acapaca

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View attachment 1675139
Should I shorten the sleeves of the linen jacket or treat it as an outer jacket. It is technically (?) a sport coat
Here's my two cents, for what it's worth. I wouldn't bother with having the sleeves shortened, with the following considerations in mind:

1) It doesn't look like they are necessarily out of the standard sort of acceptable range anyway, even if that were a traditional sportcoat.

2) If that's a short-sleeved knit under it -- or if it's not but on occasion might be -- then you'd naturally want to leave the sleeves a bit longer, no?

3) People talk about an 'accordion effect' with linen, meaning the cuffs will creep upward as you collect more wrinkles around the elbow with use. I haven't observed this to make a significant difference myself, but maybe that's because the effect gets almost immediately baked in. (In other words, maybe it has already happened to you in this pic.) Probably can't hurt, though, at the very least, to wear it a few times first if you do decide to shorten.

4) I can't tell from the pic what yours is like, but I have an unlined shirt jacket with a simple plain hem on the sleeves, meaning no buttons or cuff, and it is similarly borderline too long. With certain shirts I can actually fold it up an inch or so. Not sure this would ever apply to yours, though.

5) Finally, the obvious observation that it's far easier to change your mind later if you opt for no action now.

On silhouette... If you find yourself getting lots of use out of this look and start thinking about adding other similar jackets, you might try the safari jackets/overshirts that have square corners at the hem and thus fully closed quarters, as it were. I find that those long vertical lines are flattering in this kind of look, particularly when the jacket is worn open. Oh, and...with that kind of jacket, especially with that high buttoning point, you might like to always leave it open.
 

thuhoan

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Here's my two cents, for what it's worth. I wouldn't bother with having the sleeves shortened, with the following considerations in mind:

1) It doesn't look like they are necessarily out of the standard sort of acceptable range anyway, even if that were a traditional sportcoat.

2) If that's a short-sleeved knit under it -- or if it's not but on occasion might be -- then you'd naturally want to leave the sleeves a bit longer, no?

3) People talk about an 'accordion effect' with linen, meaning the cuffs will creep upward as you collect more wrinkles around the elbow with use. I haven't observed this to make a significant difference myself, but maybe that's because the effect gets almost immediately baked in. (In other words, maybe it has already happened to you in this pic.) Probably can't hurt, though, at the very least, to wear it a few times first if you do decide to shorten.

4) I can't tell from the pic what yours is like, but I have an unlined shirt jacket with a simple plain hem on the sleeves, meaning no buttons or cuff, and it is similarly borderline too long. With certain shirts I can actually fold it up an inch or so. Not sure this would ever apply to yours, though.

5) Finally, the obvious observation that it's far easier to change your mind later if you opt for no action now.

On silhouette... If you find yourself getting lots of use out of this look and start thinking about adding other similar jackets, you might try the safari jackets/overshirts that have square corners at the hem and thus fully closed quarters, as it were. I find that those long vertical lines are flattering in this kind of look, particularly when the jacket is worn open. Oh, and...with that kind of jacket, especially with that high buttoning point, you might like to always leave it open.

Really great points, much appreciated @acapaca
 

RSS

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After reading this thread in its entirety I’m pretty sure that I’m now set on the idea that the fits that stand out most to me are the ones that are trying to force CM to be more casual and are trying hardest to not stand out. That’s not to say I don’t like some of the looks. Some are executed really well but I just don’t see them standing out less than someone in trousers, a sport coat or blazer.
I agree. And when it includes white trainers it’s about as subtle as a neon sign “Eat at Joes!”
 
Last edited:

Hellbent

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Interview with Richard Biedul. I always liked his style even though it’s a bit fashiony at times.
 

RSS

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Hellbent

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Any particular brand and roast? I may want to try it.
Arabica beans medium roast. Not sure about the brand. Turned out more off-white than brown. Tea could also work I suppose. Different scent though,
 
  • Haha
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dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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You unironically like that?

If you’re wearing a yellow suit or the equivalent, you’re announcing to the world that you’re either a clown or an extreme badass. It’s highly unlikely you are actually the latter so everyone will understand you to be the former


me living my best life in a yellow suit

 

LuxLemon

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True enough, I just think it's statistically unlikely that the majority of posters are from rural areas or small cities. Perhaps this is due to that effect where you think your own perceptions are normal to all simply because they're normal to you (me)?

Toronto does have its share of drudgery, I have to say. Plenty of people here also follow different 'schools' of thought on dress and arrive at different styles, but there does seem to be a sizeable proportion who put some effort into their appearance - whatever that might be. And as I said earlier, CM is fairly common around my area, as it is in the better-heeled areas of the downtown core.

Calgary here - oil and gas - large company. A polo, Levi’s and fake leather aldo shoes is probably the average dressed man in the office. Shoes go casually down to black vans slip ons. A couple guys have Allen Edmonds. When I wear a sport coat it stands out, my “fancy shoes” stand out. Not that it bothers me or that anyone cares beyond “whoa why are you dressed up? Meeting with execs?” And then they carry on with their life. I balance dressing the way I like without coming off as a weirdo. I.e I can wear odd sport coat and trousers, maybe a neat pocket square and come off as professional but not like a cos-play. Pre-pandemic people were asking me about where I shop and some were picking up pieces to elevate their own look. That’s about as good of a compliment as it could get.

Downtown Toronto is probably the #1 area in the entire country to dress CM/professional attire so I would say it’s a terrible reference point.

In fact I would argue nobody really cares about what anybody else is wearing.

Another side story: Years ago I got asked for help by another man in j crew. I laughed and said I didn’t work there. I realize I was wearing almost head to toe J crew and had a huge stack of clothes in my hand that I was buying. I wasn’t offended, it was pretty funny actually. Afterwards I thought it would have been entertaining to actually assist him for a few minutes before disclosing that I didn’t work there. I wasn’t offended like the other poster, if anything it made me reflect on my own consumer habits.
 

LuxLemon

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With rare exceptions, such as preppy guys wearing Nantucket Reds (a type of pink chino), you want the major parts of your outfit to stay within the same color temperature.

Every color has a temperature. If you're in photoshop, you can easily play with this effect. Take a photo and adjust the color so the blue has a bit more red. You will now see the blue get "warmer." This ends up being something like purple.

Browns can also have a temperature. A warm brown will have a reddish undertone. A cold brown will not -- it will be closer to the taupe pants I posted above. There are also "neutral" colors such as a neutral brown.

When you keep colors within the same temperature, your outfit will look more harmonious. Here's an example.

View attachment 1671739


Simon's jacket is a bit warm, so he either needs warm-colored pants or white pants (a type of neutral) to balance out the jacket. IMO, this outfit would look better if these two men swapped pants and shoes. Note, Mark's shoes have a reddish undertone; Simon's shoes do not.

There are some exceptions. Sometimes you can wear a pink shirt with a dark blue jacket. Or burgundy shoes with a neutral navy suit. But these follow very specific dress traditions that you may not yet know when you're starting out. So the easier approach is: keep things within the same temperature. If you're wearing a cold-colored jacket, don't wear warm-colored pants.

Would you say this is a warm or cold jacket? I have been interested in something like this and thought oatmeal pants or light grey would work best.
 

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