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How to buy suits when jacket size and trouser size

hnik33

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Hi Styleforum,

I went to Saks looking for nicer suits than the normal Charles Tyrwhitt suits I buy. However, the jacket sizes all match the trouser sizes. So for example the 44L Jacket has a 44 waist Trouser. However there’s a 6 inch delta between my chest and my trouser size (44L jacket fits great, trouser size is 38x34).

I can’t imagine having a tailor take in the 44L pants by 6 inches is a good solution?

How do people make this work? What have I forgotten in the 10 years since I stopped buying suits from anywhere but Charles Tyrhwhitt?
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Are you sure you read the size correctly? Most suits are designed for a six inch drop.
 

Aloysius16

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Yes, some suits will label the trousers with the same size as the jacket but they will almost always follow a six inch drop between chest and waist. So the 44 jacket will have 38 trousers even if they are marked 44 (which essentially means that they are part of the size 44 suit set).

I can hardly recall seeing a different drop between jacket and trousers than drop 6. The only one I have experienced is RL black label which has 35 trousers with 42 jacket. Even most drop 8 or 9 jackets are accompanied by trousers 6 inches smaller than the chest size.

Short answer: try the trousers on.
 

koolhistorian

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Normally a 44 suit will have 44x38 - which is the difference between the chest area and the waist, in suits I can fit between a drop 6 and 7. Thus being said, there can be quirks, as pattern - a 44R in Stile Latino will fit different than a 44R Tagliatore - even if they are the same size and drop (normal drop is 6 for anglo-saxon, 7 for italian suits), as they are targeted to different demographics, so different bodies! Rule of thumb - the higher price will be oriented to people that have more generous bodies (and more generous wallets), the lower price towards fitter, skinnier bodies (and economic status). There are also different markets, German-duch tends to be more on the taller and stronger side, franco-italian more on the slimmer and shorter side... Nothing beats the dressing room and a good alteration tailor!
 

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