I find SF to be a valuable resource and I have taken far more from it than I have contributed. I began to rework my wardrobe last November and I am interested in opinions on where I should go next. I do review WAYWRN and use the SEARCH function but I'm seeking some fundamental suggestions. I am a Dean of a health professional college at a Canadian university and I wear mainly suits and occasionally odd jackets. Given the climate, I find less need for a summer wardrobe and gravitate to fabrics that work year-round. That is not to say I couldn't or wouldn't embrace a summer wardrobe it is just not a priority at the moment. Hot weather and my suit-wearing rarely coincide. I am 5'7'' and wear a 44R or 46R depending on the maker. Jacket length is always an issue but short cuts rarely seem to work. I need to lose 20 pounds but even at my ideal weight I still require a 44R for my shoulder dimensions. Locally, very few independent haberdashers remain. Unfortunately, around here, Boss is the leading edge while Coppley or Samuelsohn are the traditional choices. The latter two provide a quality product but their styling leaves me wanting. There are no bespoke options here. for purchases, I am relying on SF more, EBay less and make the odd NYC trip that hopefully coincides with sales or a good selection at C21. This is where I am: Suits: 1.\tRLPL 2-button charcoal glen-plaid 2.\tRLPL 2-button medium grey chalk stripe 3.\tRLBL 2-button solid charcoal 4.\tJill Sander 2-button solid charcoal 5.\tJ Crew 3/2 roll charcoal herringbone suit 6.\tPaul Smith Mainline 3/2 roll medium grey flannel (pre-SF and soon to be retired) 7.\tBrioni 1-button Navy peak lapel 8.\tCorneliani 2-button navy chalk stripe 9.\tIsaia 2-button dark brown nailhead (yes, brown is for farmer but I accessorize it with a John Deere 4320) 10.\tMTO 2-button navy bird's eye (pre-SF and soon to be retired) 11.\tMTO 2-button black suit (pre-SF and good enough for somber occasions right now) 12.\tJ Crew 2 button Navy odd jacket 13.\tJ crew 3/2 roll khaki herringone sportscoat Shirts - I am now dealing with Carl at CEGO for shirts and am very pleased Shoes 1.\tBarker Black Archdale black wingtips 2.\tAE Evanston walnut calf 3.\tBorgioli Roma 4 eyelet Norvegese derby in rustic calf 4.\tVass U-last swan neck Bordeaux calf 5.\tCleverley bespoke captoe brown (on the way) 6.\tJ Crew penny loafer brown (pre-SF holdout) So, how should I build on this wardrobe? What suits could or should be added to my rotation in terms of colour and fabric? I do not favour windowpane patterns, which probably should be avoided given my height and I do like flannel. How about odd jackets? I would like to replace the J Crew jackets and I'm thinking i should have more than one in navy. I do like herringbone and some tweed (Donnegal). But what else seems to be lacking here? The bespoke option interests me but I am reluctant given the many tragedies that show up on SF, albeit mainly from lower tier makers. Chicago is a reasonably cost-effective, direct flight so I suppose Mr. Despos would be an ideal option. I do not travel enough to take advantage of the Savile Row travelling shows. As for shoes, what style is missing from my rotation (which I realize is on the slim side)? I am sure that if Cleverley is everything it seems to be then I will stick to that route. I would like to acquire some chukkas or captoe boots for use with odd jackets and my office pants as well as for inclement weather. Suede or buckskin appeals to me in the former regard so should one go the Cleverley route for suede or find a more reasonably priced alternative and stick to them for leather? Sorry for the long post and I look forward to your responses.