• I'm happy to introduce the Styleforum Happy Hour, our brand new podcast featuring lively discussion about menswear and the fashion industry. In the inaugural edition, a discussion of what's going on in retail today. Please check it out on the Journal. All episodes will be also be available soon on your favorite podcast platform.

  • Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 5: Good Art HLYWD rosette courtesy of Self Edge

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 5th auction is for a custom Good Art HLYWD bracelet courtesy of Self Edge. Please bid often and generously here

    Fok and the Styleforum Team.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

How to assess the quality of Suite Fabric

Star

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2008
Messages
595
Reaction score
3
I am looking for advice on the quality of fabric used in suites. I am after a light Wool in a plain Charcoal. I am focusing on this variable before I start thinking about cut and build quality.

I am close to getting a MTM made and was doing the rounds of all the stores which are close to where I work to see if there might be something worthwhile OTR. Some of these stores claim that the fabric is English while one had no idea (but that's ok because it was a very cheap suite)

Can you please advise what I should look for in the fabric regardless of whether I go OTR or MTM. I live in Sydney so it needs to be versatile year round.

If it is an English fabric does that mean all English fabrics are good?
How should the fabric feel in terms of texture?
Should it have a gloss or sheen? If it does what does that mean?
Is there any particular weave I should be aware of or stay clear of?
Is there anything else I need to know?

I plan to wear it 2-3 times a week in rotation and hope for it to last a few years. I am concerned that a poor quality fabric may make it either age quicker in appearance, or quite simply fall apart.

I don't need the John Lobb of suite fabric however I wish to understand quality so I don't go with an option that is poor quality and find later I could have got better for the same dollars all other things being equal (fit, cut, style and etc)

Looking for wise minds on fabric. Other question to follow shortly.
 

rs232

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2008
Messages
243
Reaction score
18
1. I'd like to point out that "suit" has no "e".
2. Charcoal is a sure bet.
3. Much fine worsted wool fabric is still produced in English mills. That said, ...
4. You wouldn't say certain people make good friends because of their nationality; don't be too quick to judge a fabric by its nationality either. Many fine mills are English, but not all English mills are fine.
5. Sydney year round is difficult. It's 5 degrees in winter, and 25 and humid in summer (and when it goes above 25, I assume you wouldn't wear a suit). One option is half or quarter lining, rather than a fully-lined jacket. I don't think there's a year-round jacket that would do it, unless you wanted to wear an overcoat in winter or sweat in summer.
6. The fabric should feel soft, and smooth. Synthetics generally feel rough. Have a feel of some polywool jackets and then compare to wool. You'll notice the difference. Thereafter, the texture depends on the weave, the finishing process, the fibre diametre, the ply of the yarn...
7. Sheen is usually created by blending with silk or mohair. Really fine wool (eg Super 160s) will also generally have a subtle sheen - but will probably be out of your price range, and isn't too durable...

Why not have a browse on Holland & Sherry's website? It has a great information section on fabrics.
 

ManofKent

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2008
Messages
8,636
Reaction score
20,888
http://www.sofasandfurniture.co.uk/c...ric-suite.aspx


Seriously the advice from the previous poster is sound.

I'd look to get a suit that's a suitable weight for autumn/spring on it's own, so that you have the option of adding an overcoat in winter. Think about a linen suit or jacket for the summer.
 

apropos

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2008
Messages
4,495
Reaction score
389
Originally Posted by rs232
1. I'd like to point out that "suit" has no "e".
2. Charcoal is a sure bet.
3. Much fine worsted wool fabric is still produced in English mills. That said, ...
4. You wouldn't say certain people make good friends because of their nationality; don't be too quick to judge a fabric by its nationality either. Many fine mills are English, but not all English mills are fine.
5. Sydney year round is difficult. It's 5 degrees in winter, and 25 and humid in summer (and when it goes above 25, I assume you wouldn't wear a suit). One option is half or quarter lining, rather than a fully-lined jacket. I don't think there's a year-round jacket that would do it, unless you wanted to wear an overcoat in winter or sweat in summer.
6. The fabric should feel soft, and smooth. Synthetics generally feel rough. Have a feel of some polywool jackets and then compare to wool. You'll notice the difference. Thereafter, the texture depends on the weave, the finishing process, the fibre diametre, the ply of the yarn...
7. Sheen is usually created by blending with silk or mohair. Really fine wool (eg Super 160s) will also generally have a subtle sheen - but will probably be out of your price range, and isn't too durable...

Why not have a browse on Holland & Sherry's website? It has a great information section on fabrics.

Great post!
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How many pairs of shoes do you own?

  • 1 - 4

    Votes: 28 3.6%
  • 5 - 10

    Votes: 137 17.4%
  • 11 - 20

    Votes: 257 32.6%
  • 21 - 30

    Votes: 124 15.7%
  • 31 - 40

    Votes: 69 8.8%
  • 41 - 50

    Votes: 47 6.0%
  • 51 - 60

    Votes: 23 2.9%
  • 61 - 70

    Votes: 21 2.7%
  • 71 - 80

    Votes: 17 2.2%
  • 81 - 90

    Votes: 7 0.9%
  • 91 - 100

    Votes: 8 1.0%
  • 100+

    Votes: 50 6.3%

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
428,808
Messages
9,224,456
Members
193,630
Latest member
j-fashionfan
Top