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How this new Harris Tweed Fit?

neoasimov

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Hi Gentlemens,

Today I just receive my first tweed jacket (Harris). Today is also my first post on this forums, looking for experienced advises.

This jacket is a MTM from a new shop I started doing business with. I would like to see how you think it fits. I thought everything was pretty good, however when my girlfriend arrives, she immediately pointed out that the back (flap) looked a bit too short.

The first thing I have to mention is that I am 6'5" and I have my shoulders tending to lean forward due to nearly 20 years of boxing.

Here are a few photos that I took from different angles:

20200317_200234.jpg




20200317_200238.jpg


20200317_200249.jpg


The problem she was seeing is how the flap was not perfectly sitting on my back. On my side, I wonder if it is not the Harris Tweed that is way much stiffer that gives that effect:

20200317_200253.jpg

20200317_200422.jpg


20200317_200350.jpg


Or when I start moving, the flat "wave" like that:

20200317_203953.jpg


20200317_203958.jpg


What do you think? Is that nearly perfect? Is that a bit short? Is there something they can do afterward?

Thanks for your expertise on the matter,

Take care

Fred
 

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Despos

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This is a balance problem. Balance is the relation of the lengths of the front panels to the back panels. This is how you adjust a jacket to your posture. The back is too short in relation to the front length of your jacket. this makes the back hike up and pull away from your body.
Two ways to adjust this.
You have to open both side seams and the armhole where the side seams meet the sleeve. Lengthen the back about 1 “. Do not change the length of the fronts. There should be enough outlet for this. Sew the sides together again. Do the same with the lining. It may not be perfect but it will improve the way the vents lay.
The other option is to return the jacket to the maker and if they have more of this cloth they can cut a new back and new lining and make it the proper length. You may need more than 1” added.
The problem with both methods is the armhole will get bigger and the sleeves might be too small.
You also have very uneven shoulders. Right shoulder much lower than your left shoulder
 

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