How should shirt arm width fit?

[bobbob]

First, a thanks - I have been intensely scouring this forum for the last month for advice on purchasing a suit. Started the process looking at a Black Armani, ended up with a very nice 2 button Navy Canali.

Now, on to shirts - I have been completely unable to find a rule of thumb for how well a dress shirt should fit around your arm (ie. the sleeve circumference). Based on the shirts I have tried on, the sleeves are simply unacceptably huge. With a casual button-up shirt I wear a Medium size (occasionally Large), but for a dress shirt I need a 17 collar in order to button it and not suffocate! It seems to me that 17 correlates with an 'XL' size shirt, which as you can imagine is too damned big on me. I never in a million years thought I had a big neck!

Can someone offer up a rule of thumb for how the sleeves should fit? And, possibly some designers that tend to cut the sleeves a little less MC Hammer?

Thanks!

 

[Jovan]

They should fit however is comfortable to you... I prefer a 20" armhole with both shirts and suits and I'm roughly a 38" chest, 16" collar.

You could always try Charles Tyrwhitt or Brooks Brothers' slim fit, though the latter tends to use back pleats.

 

[j]

Ideally, the sleeve should only be big enough to fit your arm into it with some amount of ease for movement. You don't want it skin tight, but excess fabric is not good. One of the best things about custom or well fitted shirts is that the armhole will be designed to fit your body, so that it allows the best freedom of movement with minimal excess bunching up.

In your case, for casual shirts, if you don't expect to wear a tie, just buy shirts that fit in the body without worrying if the collar fits. For dress shirts you may need to go custom to get a larger collar size on a shirt that still fits. In the meantime, do a search about slim fitting shirts here and a ton of threads will pop up with some suggestions. Personally, I just got a few H&M slim fit shirts and am impressed with how well they fit me, but it remains to be seen how they will hold up. Other than that I have no suggestions.

Welcome to the forum!

 

[bobbob]

Thanks for the welcome! Just to clarify, I find that for a casual button-up shirt(that I would never button up the collar), I can buy a medium and it fits me quite well. I do need a couple more dress shirts (that would be worn with a tie) so this is my dilemma. I did notice the recommendations for H&M and Zara, both stores are in Toronto so that is my next step. As for comfort, I cant say I'm uncomfortable but I'm sure I would be comfortable wearing a gigantic burlap sack also

But when I try on a size 17 shirt and pull the sleeve tight its twice the size of my arm!

 

[j]

I know what you mean - I used to play trumpet in high school and I had to get big collars because my neck would expand a lot while playing. So I was getting 16.5" collars while I was about 5'10"-160. Needless to say, the shirts were gigantic on me.

 

[Jared]

First, it might be worth measuring your neck just to get an idea of whether you have a unique body or unique comfort requirements. If the former, some discussion of your figure might help us recommend a course of action.

From Toronto, Lands End or Jantzen (read the archives thoroughly first) might be your best bets for MTM.

 

[mensimageconsultant]

Hi,

The sleeves should be about as fitted as the shirt is in the body. Around the wrists, it might help for them to be a bit tight, so that shirt cuff shows (under a tailored jacket) despite arm movement.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by mensimageconsultant

Hi,

The sleeves should be about as fitted as the shirt is in the body. Around the wrists, it might help for them to be a bit tight, so that shirt cuff shows (under a tailored jacket) despite arm movement.
Disagree 100%. The sleeves should be fuller than the body by a bit. Most good shirts have a sleeve that is larger than the armhole in order to facilitate movement.

 

[mensimageconsultant]

Hmm, okay, a little less fitted, for movement and (if worn without a jacket) also because arms often are small compared to torso size.