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How should a shirt actually fit on the neckline?

Dan Dynamic

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I could not find an answer to how the top seam of the yoke should fit on the neck in order to accentuate the neck line in the best manner as possible. See my drawn figures in the attached files.

In my mind the shirt should fit with the seam laying perfectly on top of the neckline and thereby accentuating the neck muscles. This is done in the right part of the first figure. Is this something one can ask for when doing MTM?

As seen in the second figure the distances are different, with the yoke seem "sitting" higher in the right part of the figure.
 

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Shirtmaven

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Dan. This question has so many variables.
I am not even sure what you mean by accentuating the neck muscles.
In most MTM shirt programs the location of the yoke in front is very standard. You can accomadate for square or sloping shoulders as well as for a shoulder height difference.
Lately I have had a few customers whose shoulders point forward causing a break or visible ripple from neck to shoulder. My pattern maker has started pushing that line backwards . It is an odd alteration to the pattern but "seams" to work...
You would have to show me a photo and not a line drawing
 

Dan Dynamic

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Dan. This question has so many variables.
I am not even sure what you mean by accentuating the neck muscles.
In most MTM shirt programs the location of the yoke in front is very standard. You can accomadate for square or sloping shoulders as well as for a shoulder height difference.
Lately I have had a few customers whose shoulders point forward causing a break or visible ripple from neck to shoulder. My pattern maker has started pushing that line backwards . It is an odd alteration to the pattern but "seams" to work...
You would have to show me a photo and not a line drawing
I appreciate the help, Shirtmaven. Unfortunately I do know own well-fitting shirts. Hence, I attached a photo comparing two almost identical shirts.

The left one is photoshopped. The right one is the original.

As can be seen, the yoke seem is not visible in the left shirt. What is your opinion, how should it look like? I think the left shirt looks cleaner, and perhaps he looks wider and the trap area looks more prominent.

The right one looks good as well. I think the gist of my post is to emphasize that the yoke seem (or whatever it is called) should at least be in parallel with the visible edge of the neck.
 

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Shirtmaven

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I appreciate the help, Shirtmaven. Unfortunately I do know own well-fitting shirts. Hence, I attached a photo comparing two almost identical shirts.

The left one is photoshopped. The right one is the original.

As can be seen, the yoke seem is not visible in the left shirt. What is your opinion, how should it look like? I think the left shirt looks cleaner, and perhaps he looks wider and the trap area looks more prominent.

The right one looks good as well. I think the gist of my post is to emphasize that the yoke seem (or whatever it is called) should at least be in parallel with the visible edge of the neck.
You are overthinking. Both look fine except the chest needs to be larger by 1" on both. And the shirt on the left needs a wider yoke by 1/2"
I like the front yoke seam on the left more. But if you were wearing the shirt on the right I would not see a problem.
Where are these from?
 

Dan Dynamic

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You are overthinking. Both look fine except the chest needs to be larger by 1" on both. And the shirt on the left needs a wider yoke by 1/2"
I like the front yoke seam on the left more. But if you were wearing the shirt on the right I would not see a problem.
Where are these from?
Shirtmaven, thank you. These are actually identical photos. I just photoshopped the left one by removing the visible part of the yoke. The figure is from a stock photo from a Swedish retailer, hence I am not sure where the shirt is from.

Perhaps, in the grand scheme of things I really am overthinking. They both look good I think.
 

Dan Dynamic

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Did you order yet?
If you send a photo, I can tell you how to adjust posture and shoulder slopes
I am going next week for measurements, will probably take me 4 weeks before the shirt is done. I'll get back to you. Thanks for the help!
 

Shirtmaven

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I am going next week for measurements, will probably take me 4 weeks before the shirt is done. I'll get back to you. Thanks for the help!
So if someone is actually measuring you, they should be able to answer your questions
 

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