How much waist suppression do you prefer?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by CrimsonSox, Jul 27, 2013.

How much waist suppression do you prefer?

  1. No waist suppression; sack coat

    4 vote(s)
    4.4%
  2. Slight hint of waist suppression

    1 vote(s)
    1.1%
  3. Light waist suppression

    22 vote(s)
    24.2%
  4. Moderate waist suppression

    42 vote(s)
    46.2%
  5. Significant waist suppression

    22 vote(s)
    24.2%
  1. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    How much waist suppression do you prefer?

    A. No waist suppression; straight-hanging, as in a traditional, undarted sack suit.

    [​IMG]

    B. Just a slight hint of waist suppression.

    [​IMG]

    C. Light waist suppression (Paul Stuart's "Stuart" model):

    [​IMG]

    D. Moderate waist suppression (Paul Stuart's "Paul" model):

    [​IMG]


    E. Significant waist suppression (Tom Ford; Viscount Thurso in Aquascutum, from 1985):

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Image sources, with larger pictures: A, http://www.styleforum.net/t/74417/sartorial-color-photos-from-1940-a-look-back#post_1232270
    B. http://popcultureblog.dallasnews.com/files/2013/04/APTOPIX_THE_PRESIDENTS_CLUB_4065201.jpg
    C. http://www.paulstuart.com/product_i...07&MainCatId=14&HEADERMENUID=1&SUBPRODCATID=0
    D. http://www.paulstuart.com/images/items/md/7071234.jpg
    E. http://img.spokeo.com/public/900-600/tom_ford_2007_03_26.jpg
    E. http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/NPK001387/viscount-thurso-with-dog
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2013
  2. Tomboys

    Tomboys Senior member

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    IME, the amount seems to be governed by the wearer's physique more so than by their stylistic preference (taste). In my case, I'm probably in the light category, but would love to be in the moderate category. Unfortunately, my taste for Oreo cookies makes my physique unable to achieve that moderate category.
     
  3. Beatlegeuse

    Beatlegeuse Senior member

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    Judging from your pics, it looks like D has just as much waist suppression as E.
     
  4. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    If one tries both on, the Tom Ford is definitely more suppressed than PS's Paul model. The TF is a drop 7 or 8, depending on whether it's a base A or B, versus a drop 6 for the Paul. For some reason, though, it's difficult to find photos online of normal people wearing the Paul. Most are wearing the older Stuart or Edward model. The catalog photos make the Paul look as suppressed as the TF, since the PS suit is shot from a greater distance away, and it's in a lighter color, which shows its lines better. You make a good point that the "significant suppression" category could use a clearer picture:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2013
  5. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    That's true -- one's physique does limit one's choices. At the same time, it's interesting that some people who can pull off a tighter waist choose to have less suppression. For instance, the sack coat was popular for many years, and today some men with a higher drop choose the less suppressed suit, since it's seen as more conservative.
     
  6. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Senior member

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    +1 to this. I'm in the moderate/significant category. Tom's "significant suppression" picture is really just tight across the button.
     
  7. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I want C, but my tailor always gives me D. My alterations tailor knows what I like though (after they made several OTR jackets into D)
     
  8. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    I prefer C (light waist suppression). I get my jackets with very lightly padded shoulders and think that a light amount of waist suppression gives enough shape and goes well with the less structured look. Plus I have wide hips so too much waist suppression will make the vents flare out.
     
  9. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    +1

    Exact sentiment.
     
  10. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Another +1 for this. I always seem to look better with light padding in the shoulders and just a little waist suppression. I have a gigantor ass that just looks weird if the waist is too narrow on my jackets.
     
  11. GothamRed

    GothamRed Senior member

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    +1​
     
  12. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    Most of my suits are a C, light suppression, but I could fit a D or E (moderate or significant). I was thinking of having the suits taken in, though not to the Tom Ford degree. My major concern is whether the additional waist suppression will seem less professional or serious? Interestingly, both Presidents George W. Bush and Obama are quite fit, but they wear suits with barely any suppression.
     
  13. GothamRed

    GothamRed Senior member

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    do not use politicians as style inspiration...unless, of course, you are an aspiring politician.​
     
  14. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    Most politicians do dress badly, and their suits tend to fit like a box. But do you think that "D" would be too much for the office?
     
  15. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Senior member

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    ...for the Oval Office? Yes....for your business office? No...
     

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