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lullemans72

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So just the other day, I was watching a video on alpha m, and he brought something to my attention that I hadn't given any thought until now. And that is about pant tapering. The video is here: (starts at 0:43)


Ever since I started studying up on fashion, I quickly learned the importance of having both your jacket sleeves and suit pants shortened, and have done so for all the suits I own. But for some reason, the tapering just completely slipped my mind. Now that I at least know OF it, I'm trying to understand how much dress pants should be tapered by. I really don't know since until now, I thought having them hemmed was enough. So if you would please have a look at some photos of me below which I took in my suit and let me know what you think. In one picture I've tried pinching the fabric so you can see how much is left.

IMG_20170524_223008.jpg


20170524_175816.jpg


20170524_182835.jpg
 

ThomGault

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Those pictures are not sufficient to show the excess material in your trousers---you really need a partner to use the camera and get better perspective. That being said, from what I see, the trousers look acceptable. Don't chase fashion and get skinny pants. Depending on your build, choice of break, and suit style, wider trouser legs may actually look better than narrow.
 

madhat

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Are you trying to go for classic American fit or a more modern fit? What about the length? It looks like you have a slight break, so you have the pants sitting on the shoes. If you went with a short cut that keeps them off the shoes (no break) I would definitely say go for a slimmer cut (looks more British or modern to me). Classic style is to have at least as much fabric as they have now. I personally don't like my pants too wide, but my tailor talked me into it on a suit. I have to say the pants fell sooo much better on my shoes with a wider cut (approx 1/2 to 2/3 the length of of my shoe).

I agree, the pants seem to fit ok now, It just depends on what you are going for.
 

ter1413

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Those pictures are not sufficient to show the excess material in your trousers---you really need a partner to use the camera and get better perspective. That being said, from what I see, the trousers look acceptable. Don't chase fashion and get skinny pants. Depending on your build, choice of break, and suit style, wider trouser legs may actually look better than narrow.



What he ^^ said.
 

Tacosauce

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A good taper is a must, but you also have to take into your body shape before you slim down too much. Muscular calves will make a slim taper look and drape bad.

Try to find a balance. Best thing to do is take a pair of pants that fit how you want. Your tailor can trace the pants onto any new pants you want altered. The tailor can also alter it as well if you want more of less. I tend to go with 7.5 - 8.5 leg opening. I wear a size 8.5 - 9 shoe.

Also, more modern look will go with no breaks. Take into account your leg and torso length if you with pleats.
 

lullemans72

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Thanks for all the feedback, gentlemen.

Those pictures are not sufficient to show the excess material in your trousers---you really need a partner to use the camera and get better perspective. That being said, from what I see, the trousers look acceptable. Don't chase fashion and get skinny pants. Depending on your build, choice of break, and suit style, wider trouser legs may actually look better than narrow.

Yeah I know about the angles not being ideal. I don't usually have anyone around when I want some snaps taken.
About my build, it's definitely on the slim side. I'm 175 cm tall (5'9'') and weigh about 56 kg (125 lbs).
Because of that, I have a slight to medium break in all my suit pants. Like you, I'm personally also not a fan of super skinny pants, but I do like them to look flattering on me. Based on what you're saying though, more harm would be done than good if I had them tapered.

Are you trying to go for classic American fit or a more modern fit? What about the length? It looks like you have a slight break, so you have the pants sitting on the shoes. If you went with a short cut that keeps them off the shoes (no break) I would definitely say go for a slimmer cut (looks more British or modern to me). Classic style is to have at least as much fabric as they have now. I personally don't like my pants too wide, but my tailor talked me into it on a suit. I have to say the pants fell sooo much better on my shoes with a wider cut (approx 1/2 to 2/3 the length of of my shoe).

I agree, the pants seem to fit ok now, It just depends on what you are going for.

You're right, the pants have a slight to medium break. As for the style I'm going for, I'm not that familiar with what the names of all the different styles, but I'm not opting for a no break in those pants as that would be a bit too casual for my taste. Hence the slight/medium break. As mentioned to ThomGaul above, since I have a rather slim build, I would want to avoid having pants that are too wide, but only began thinking about the width of my suit pants after watching alpha m's video.

A good taper is a must, but you also have to take into your body shape before you slim down too much. Muscular calves will make a slim taper look and drape bad.

Try to find a balance. Best thing to do is take a pair of pants that fit how you want. Your tailor can trace the pants onto any new pants you want altered. The tailor can also alter it as well if you want more of less. I tend to go with 7.5 - 8.5 leg opening. I wear a size 8.5 - 9 shoe.

Also, more modern look will go with no breaks. Take into account your leg and torso length if you with pleats.

My shoe size for dress shoes range from 41 to 42 (8.5), by the way. I also measured my pant width just now, and they seem to be about 19 cm wide (7,5''). I'm guessing I should just leave them as is then?

20170528_142612.jpg
 
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Tacosauce

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Post a better picture of you wearing your pants for an accurate assessment.
 

Tacosauce

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The only pose needed is a side view, no angle. But from what I can see, looks fine.
 

Jacobs

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Slightly off-topic, but that website (alpha m) is one of the most ridiculous things I've ever seen.
 

ThomGault

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They are already too tapered. See the wrinkles at the crotch, thigh, and shin? That's because they're too tight. Fine clothing should drape and flow well; these pants don't.
 

madhat

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Those look good for a modern cut - definitely don't taper any more. I've got a few pairs in that range of tightness. Bear in mind they will be difficult to balance with a jacket. I would recommend a bit more volume for a suit, but that would be your decision if youy like the feel/look of a bit more volume.

As an aside, you might want to buy some of these http://www.ties.com/ties-com-rose-gold-2-inch-collar-stay
 

lullemans72

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Slightly off-topic, but that website (alpha m) is one of the most ridiculous things I've ever seen.

How come?

They are already too tapered. See the wrinkles at the crotch, thigh, and shin? That's because they're too tight. Fine clothing should drape and flow well; these pants don't.

Yeah, I can see the wrinkling. I wonder if perhaps they're just not made for the shape of my body rather than being too tapered, because I can assure that there's plenty of room between my legs and the fabric.

Those look good for a modern cut - definitely don't taper any more. I've got a few pairs in that range of tightness. Bear in mind they will be difficult to balance with a jacket. I would recommend a bit more volume for a suit, but that would be your decision if youy like the feel/look of a bit more volume.

As an aside, you might want to buy some of these http://www.ties.com/ties-com-rose-gold-2-inch-collar-stay

Haha, busted on the collar! Thanks for the tip. Admittedly, that color didn't look very flattering there, even though it already has collar stays in them.

As for more volume, I guess I'll see what my first real bespoke suit looks like once I order it a few months from now. But I basically used to wear suits that were way too large for me. Hence my wanting to go for more slim fitted suits as much as possible. Here are some pictures of a navy suit I own which I bought several years back that is a few sizes too large:

IMG_20170530_224444.jpg
 

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