how much room should be in your shirt collar?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jamesbond, May 1, 2005.

  1. jamesbond

    jamesbond Senior member

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    i know its been stated that 2 fingers should fit inside your collar comfortably, but there really isnt anything too specific out there about how a collar should fit. i guess its more of a preference type thing.

    i was watching The Thomas Crown Affair last night (brosnan) and his collar seems to fit like a glove. not to tight so that the skin on his neck is bulging over the collar and not loose enough to were you can see any noticably large gaps when he bends his head forward, maybe a little small space when he moves but he most certaintly couldnt have had enough room for 2 fingers to slide in there.

    my neck measurement is a perfect 14 with the tape measure held firm to the skin, i think im going to have some shirts made with a 14.25 collar (after shrinkage). do you think that a 1/4 inch will be enough for a perfect fit or will i be strangled to death? i just dont like the look of a collar that shows a huge gap when i turn or bend my head a little or alot. obviously if i bend forward or sidways enough there should be a little space but nothing noticably large.

    obviously some people are in there shirt and tie all day so they need to be comfortable so they give themselves a little too much room, IMHO. so is a quarter inch too uncomfortable for most (any shirt makers out there)

    thanks gents.
     


  2. kabert

    kabert Senior member

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    As little as possible so there is no gapping visible, keeping in mind:

    -- comfort
    -- fluctuations in your weight
    -- avoidance of the "strangled" look if you've got a flabby neck

    Personally, I think the "fingers" measurement is too variable and too often leads to shirts that are too big.
     


  3. alchimiste

    alchimiste Senior member

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    I would agree with Kabert here. The right size for collar, armholes, chest, etc. is the samllest size that's comfortable. I guess you have a bunch of RTW shirts; check out the collar sizes of the ones which are too tight: you need more; check out the collar sizes of the ones which are too loose: you want less than that.
     


  4. android

    android Member

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    What is the measurement?
    Center of button to center of buttonhole?
     


  5. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    The finger test is not bad; in general I prefer such tests and rules and guidelines as being better than nothing.  But they have their limitations.

    In this case the problem is that the human neck is not a marble column; it is soft.  Therefore, you could probably cram up to eight fingers in a well-fitting collar; they would just press into the flesh of your neck.

    Collars are indeed measured from the center of the button to the center of the buttonhole.  Good shirtmakers shrink the hell out of the cloth before they cut the shirt.  Thus they don't have to build in any shrinkage.  Or else they know from experience exactly how much each of the cloths they use will shrink, and build in just that much.

    I agree that a collar should not be precisely fitted to the neck.  But it should look as if it were.  That means, in general, that if you measured your neck (under the hairline in back and under the Adam's apple in front) snuggly, and added 1/2", you are likely to come up with the correct collar size for you.  Likely.  Large necks may require a little more, small necks slightly less.

    Kabbaz, correct me if I am wrong.
     


  6. jamesbond

    jamesbond Senior member

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    thanks manton, now that is actually some usefull info. not that the other posts werent but they were rather of common sense.

    i thought the collar was measured from the center of the button to the end of the button hole, because when the collar is buttoned its natural tendency to want to unbutton (for lack of better words) pulls the button all the way to the end of the hole. the end of the button hole/slit is what makes it so the collar cant come undone.

    does that make sense?
     


  7. drljva

    drljva Senior member

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    (Manton @ May 02 2005,07:17) The finger test is not bad; in general I prefer such tests and rules and guidelines as being better than nothing. Â But they have their limitations. In this case the problem is that the human neck is not a marble column; it is soft. Â Therefore, you could probably cram up to eight fingers in a well-fitting collar; they would just press into the flesh of your neck. Collars are indeed measured from the center of the button to the center of the buttonhole. Â Good shirtmakers shrink the hell out of the cloth before they cut the shirt. Â Thus they don't have to build in any shrinkage. Â Or else they know from experience exactly how much each of the cloths they use will shrink, and build in just that much. I agree that a collar should not be precisely fitted to the neck. Â But it should look as if it were. Â That means, in general, that if you measured your neck (under the hairline in back and under the Adam's apple in front) snuggly, and added 1/2", you are likely to come up with the correct collar size for you. Â Likely. Â Large necks may require a little more, small necks slightly less. Kabbaz, correct me if I am wrong.
    thanks manton, now that is actually some usefull info. not that the other posts werent but they were rather of common sense. i thought the collar was measured from the center of the button to the end of the button hole, because when the collar is buttoned its natural tendency to want to unbutton (for lack of better words) pulls the button all the way to the end of the hole. the end of the button hole/slit is what makes it so the collar cant come undone. does that make sense?
    When I read the earlier posts I thought the same thing. Still, doubt that it makes much difference either way (fraction of an inch...).
     


  8. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, it does. But for some reason (tradition?), center to center is the way most shirtmakers take the measurement. I think drljva is right that it will only affect the measurement by a little bit, perhaps 1/8", no more than 1/4" certainly. Maybe shirtmakers automatically build that in? I also find that my own collars don't pull to the right of the buttonhole as much as one might expect. I don't know if that's true for others as well.
     


  9. jamesbond

    jamesbond Senior member

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    ok thanks Manton.

    Alex must be on vacation this month?

    oh actually Alex did chime in on AA. thanks Alex.
     


  10. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    FYI, over on AA Kabbaz says that I am wrong and you are right. Live and learn.
     


  11. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    I didn't think AK was posting here anymore...(due to the Grayson incident)
     


  12. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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    styleforum has a much lower business potential than AA for Kabbaz most likely. But maybe I shouldn't write such a thing.

    Luc.
     


  13. yanks2182

    yanks2182 Senior member

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    whats the difference between both forums?
     


  14. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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    about 35 years.

    Luc.
     


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