How much of a break?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by WJTW, Jan 19, 2005.

  1. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I've had to do this, too, on RTW pants. It does have a name. I can't remember what it is, but I think it has the word "French" in there somewhere. Not "French cuff" but French something ... I think ...
     


  2. Solitarias

    Solitarias Member

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    I prefer a to wear them "short and narrow" Like this (thanks to my Dutch 'collegue' Nexus) [​IMG] (Italian La Zetgai trousers and Santoni fatte a mano)
     


  3. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    No break at all. And, very nice combination. Wish more Americans would do similar things.
     


  4. bigbadbuff

    bigbadbuff Senior member

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    IMO no break at all only looks good on slim, flat front trousers-which wouldn't have a cuff anyway. If it has a cuff, a slight break ala Saville Row style looks best. I've rarely had tailors get this right- they almost always go for too much break. Tailors around Richmond suck- all the ones I've been to at least. Need to find a new one.
     


  5. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Senior member

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    i've never heard of anyone leaving the pants long enough to cover part of the heel, at least not on purpose. this would look too long to me. wouldn't it suffice to have the pant legs reach the top of the heel regardless of whether or not they are cuffed?

    btw, the first time i requested slanted cuffs on my pants, the tailor refused to do it. she said it was 'old man style.' so i've had my pants hemmed straight across since then, if omly for continuity.
     


  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Not the actual heel of the sole, but the rear of the shoe. I guess technically that's not a heel.
     


  7. gorgekko

    gorgekko Senior member

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    Christ, is she the tailor to Prince Michael or something? Refusing?

    At any rate, the tailor I patronize -- he still has a strong Italian accent -- does wonders with everything I bring him...except pants. For some damned reason the length is always far too long. This, from an Italian cat? He should be going shorter, not longer.

    I prefer a slight break myself.
     


  8. forwardpleated

    forwardpleated Member

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    Mid-Atlantic. Flusser claims that Barbera calls it that.
     


  9. stripes22

    stripes22 Member

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    I live in a smaller city, and was pleased--after having read this thread--that when I took two pairs of pants in to be hemmed, I requested the tailor do an Italian style with cuffs on one pair. He did not skip a beat, and marked them just as Manton described.

    Thanks. I now have more confidence in my local tailor.
     


  10. WJTW

    WJTW Well-Known Member

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    Something related: With slight or even no break, wouldn't the 'top part of the back of the shoe' be seen when one is in stride? Is this supposed to happen and, er... acceptable? For myself, I don't like this part appearing when walking... By 'top part of the back of the shoe', I mean the part indicated by the arrow in the picture . I really hope the arrow is clear enough. What exactly is it called, by the way? The picture: [​IMG] WJTW
     


  11. WJTW

    WJTW Well-Known Member

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    Any replies for this? [​IMG] Any replies would help and might prevent any possible mistakes when choosing or altering pants... WJTW
     


  12. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    In my opinion breaks look better on trousers that have a slight flare to them.

    It should be a slanted break so there is a slightly more noticeable break in the front.

    And also for the pant cuff covering the back of the heel that was fairly popular in the early part of the 20th century. As say the 1918 to 1920's.
     


  13. alchimiste

    alchimiste Senior member

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    Originally Posted by j,Jan. 19 2005,11:52
    If you want the back to the top of the shoe heel and a minimal break, a slanted hem will do that
    That's the Savile Row way, and I think it looks best on uncuffed trousers. Personal opinion.
    The cuffs need to be parallel to the legs of the trousers, so if the hem is slanted it would be hard to get the cuffs right. The seam would have to be at an angle to compensate for the slanted hem. I am no tailor but from a purely geometrical point of view it seems quite complex.
     


  14. Giona Granata

    Giona Granata Senior member

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    Strange, because we always thought that Americans have too short trousers (JFK look).

    The Italian rule every tailor here will use -if not asked differently-, as I know, is: "you have not to see socks while walking (not just standing)". So trousers will rest on the shoe with a generouse break. And trousers are always cuffed AND slanted (the rear is longer and it is 1-2 cm above heel of the shoe).

    My, personal, rule is: trousers have no break, but touch the shoe; very hard to meet perfectly.
     


  15. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Cuffed trousers are never slanted. Only cuffless trousers are slanted.
     


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