How much lining on summer suits do you prefer?

[noobanker]

I just got an all linen Sartorio suit and was wondering how much lining I should keep on it.

It's half lined mostly, with full lining on the inside of the sleeves.

Should I get rid of even more lining? What about the sleeves?

 

[Andy57]

It's hardly lined now. I get that you think removing the lining is going to somehow be cooler. But it won't be.

 

[bry2000]

You can't be serious about getting rid of the sleeve lining.

 

[noobanker]

You can't be serious about getting rid of the sleeve lining.

I was serious, but now reconsidering it given the two replies here.
I thought it would become a little bit cooler with the little lining that exists removed.

 

[Andy57]

If you remove the sleeve lining, you will regret it. If it's already only half-lined, removing more lining will not make the jacket any cooler. And it's debatable whether half-lining makes any difference in the first place.

 

[breakaway01]

The sleeve lining helps to prevent the sleeve fabric from binding/bunching on your shirt sleeve. Don’t take the sleeve lining out.

 

[dieworkwear]

Antonio Liverano often makes summer jackets without any sleeve lining, but I imagine it may depend on the cloth the customer chooses. A loosely woven wool-silk-linen may require sleeve lining for durability if nothing else. However, friends of mine who own fully unlined summer jackets from Liverano say their jackets wear just fine. All my tailored jackets have lined sleeves, but I have a couple of safari jackets -- including a linen one -- with unlined sleeves. I haven't noticed any issues.

That said, I agree that lining generally helps you slide into the jacket better. And that removing the lining is unlikely to make the jacket feel cooler. Years ago, one of my tailors delivered a fully lined summer jacket to me when I asked for a partially lined jacket. He said that lining nowadays is pretty breathable and that he would remove the lining if I felt the jacket was uncomfortable. After having worn the jacket for years now, I can't say I really notice a difference (although, my area gets summers in the high 70s to mid-80s, so take that for what it's worth).

I would personally keep the lining in. If anything, removing it seems like it would be a waste of money, as you'd have to pay for the alteration, and as Andy noted, it's unlikely to make a difference in how you feel.

 

[noobanker]

Yeah, I think I will stick w/ the current lining for now.
The suit is already 100% linen, and I can see some light through the fabric so it should be okay for summers.
Just trying to make sure it will be cool enough for really hot weather when I travel for work (whenever that happens again, maybe never).

 

[dieworkwear]

Yeah, I think I will stick w/ the current lining for now.
The suit is already 100% linen, and I can see some light through the fabric so it should be okay for summers.
Just trying to make sure it will be cool enough for really hot weather when I travel for work (whenever that happens again, maybe never).

On certain open weave fabrics, you can sometimes see the shirt underneath if you don't have a lining. It may not be as much of an issue for the bottom half of the back of the jacket, as the shirt isn't so close to the surface of the cloth. But for sleeves, sometimes the material shows through.

I once saw a fully unlined Liverano summer jacket that had this issue.

 

[noobanker]

On certain open weave fabrics, you can sometimes see the shirt underneath if you don't have a lining. It may not be as much of an issue for the bottom half of the back of the jacket, as the shirt isn't so close to the surface of the cloth. But for sleeves, sometimes the material shows through.

I once saw a fully unlined Liverano summer jacket that had this issue.

Right, that's another reason to keep the inner-sleeve lining.
It's partially lined on the front of the jacket, which I will keep as well.

I guess I will consider completely unlined when I get something that is designed from ground up that way by the tailor, like Liverano & Liverano. Anyhow, I got this completely unlined idea from seeing a Liverano & Liverano suit on Instagram, which had no inner-sleeve lining.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

I've commissioned three summer jackets by now and the tailor, even after we have cultivated a pretty good rapport, has never even mentioned partial lining and since I'm uncertain about it myself, I revert to my adage, "trust you tailor," and leave the idea unmentioned.

I just spent two hours perambulating around Philadelphia in perhaps 90°F (~32.2°C) heat wearing my fully lined blue fresco suit and although the condition of several garments betrayed after the fact that my sweat glands are both functional and quite active, I never felt especially hot or uncomfortable in it. I am thus inclined at least to be slightly skeptical of partial lining.

 

[noobanker]

I've commissioned three summer jackets by now and the tailor, even after we have cultivated a pretty good rapport, has never even mentioned partial lining and since I'm uncertain about it myself, I revert to my adage, "trust you tailor," and leave the idea unmentioned.

I just spent two hours perambulating around Philadelphia in perhaps 90°F (~32.2°C) heat wearing my fully lined blue fresco suit and although the condition of several garments betrayed after the fact that my sweat glands are both functional and quite active, I never felt especially hot or uncomfortable in it. I am thus inclined at least to be slightly skeptical of partial lining.

Thanks, that is very helpful.

I have a Loro piana mohair suit and then this new linen one, but have not experienced much in the way of wearing them for a prolonged period in 90F+ weather yet.
I guess I should be okay.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

Thanks, that is very helpful.

I have a Loro piana mohair suit and then this new linen one, but have not experienced much in the way of wearing them for a prolonged period in 90F+ weather yet.
I guess I should be okay.

I live in Philadelphia, which I enjoy ten months of the year and begrudgingly tolerate for two (I.e. July and August). I'm also a big fat guy, so that compounds the problem. So long as you're not running around in anything really heavy or dense or literally running around, which is improperly vigorous activity for wearing a suit, I think that you'll do well enough.