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FlyingHorker

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I'm getting a safari jacket made from linen, tailor did make it clear he would wash the fabric before cutting.

Would there be any more shrinkage if I threw it in the wash on a delicate cycle?
 

stubloom

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Note: Any references to "washing" in this reply refers to home washing. The results that can be achieved with home washing will vary significantly depending on the technology (washing machine, detergents, hand iron, etc.) and the skill of the operator.

The typical Safari jacket is unstructured/unlined. If so, that's a positive if you intend to wash it on a regular basis. If the jacket is structured or lined in any way, however, I would not recommend washing, even on delicate setting. For 2 reasons: You'll distort the construction and, as a result, you'll struggle to achieve a nice soft but smooth finish (no matter how skilled you are with a hand iron).

Your tailor says that he will preshrink the fabric prior to cutting. If so, that's a positive if you intend to wash it on a regular basis. I'd insist 3 or 3 washings in warm water to achieve maximum shrinkage.

Your tailor's approach is admirable if he/she does, indeed, wash the fabric. I'd speculate that most tailors don't prewash their linens. Why? Because all that linen fabric would have to be smoothly pressed prior to cutting. That's a time consuming undertaking. Linen that is poorly pressed will impact the look (smoothness) and "hand" (texture) of the final garment presented to you and most tailors want to present a final product that, at least, looks as perfect as possible.

BTW, there's an easy way to determine if your tailor has, in fact, preshrunk the material by washing. New linen has a particular "new linen" smell. After washing that smell will disappear. If you still smell that "new linen" smell after receipt of the final product, he probably hasn't preshrunk the fabric.

Two other issues to consider when washing linen garments:

1. Many linens are sized in order to impart "body" to the fabric (I hate the analogy but the best way to think about it is "starched"). Here's the problem: most sizings are soluble in water (but not in dry cleaning fluid). Which means, that the fabric will probably feel "limp" after washing.

2. Dark colored will probably "crock" during washing. Crocking is that white streaking you see on brand new denim after the denim is washed a few times prior to being worn.

Summary

You can go ahead and "wash" that Safari jacket if you so wish. It's your garment and you can do whatever you want with it. The question is not can you wash it; the question is should you?

Here's the point: You've just invested in bespoke linen Safari jacket. An unstructured/unlined linen jacket is not an easy "home wash and press" garment (shoulders, sleeves, pockets, etc.).

Instead, I'd recommend that you locate a decent dry cleaner in your area. For a moderate price, they'll probably produce a far better end product that you might be able to produce at home -- not perfect by any stretch of the imagination, but, in all likelihood, far better than you could possibly achieve.
 
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FlyingHorker

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Note: Any references to "washing" in this reply refers to home washing. The results that can be achieved with home washing will vary significantly depending on the technology (washing machine, detergents, hand iron, etc.) and the skill of the operator.

The typical Safari jacket is unstructured/unlined. If so, that's a positive if you intend to wash it on a regular basis. If the jacket is structured or lined in any way, however, I would not recommend washing, even on delicate setting. For 2 reasons: You'll distort the construction and, as a result, you'll struggle to achieve a nice soft but smooth finish (no matter how skilled you are with a hand iron).

You tailor says that he will preshrink the fabric prior to cutting. If so, that's a positive if you intend to wash it on a regular basis. I'd insist 3 or 3 washings in warm water to achieve maximum shrinkage.

Your tailor's approach is admirable if he/she does, indeed, wash the fabric. I'd speculate that most tailors don't prewash their linens. Why? Because all that linen fabric would have to be smoothly pressed prior to cutting. That's a time consuming undertaking. Linen that is poorly pressed will impact the look (smoothness) and "hand" (texture) of the final garment presented to you and most tailors want to present a final product that, at least, looks as perfect as possible.

BTW, there's an easy way to determine if your tailor has, in fact, preshrunk the material by washing. New linen has a particular "new linen" smell. After washing that smell will disappear. If you still smell that "new linen" smell after receipt of the final product, he probably hasn't preshrunk the fabric.

Two other issues to consider when washing linen garments:

1. Many linens are sized (I hate the analogy but the best way to think about it is "starched"). Here's the problem: most sizings are soluble in water (but not in dry cleaning fluid). Which means, that the fabric will probably feel "limp" after washing.

2. Dark colored will "crock" during washing. Crocking is that white streaking you see on denim after the denim is washed.

Summary

You can go ahead and "wash" that Safari jacket if you so wish. It's your garment and you can do whatever you want with it. The question is not can you wash it; the question is should you?

Here's the point: You've just invested in bespoke linen Safari jacket. An unstructured/unlined linen jacket is not an easy "home wash and press" garment (shoulders, sleeves, pockets, etc.). Instead, I'd recommend that you locate a decent dry cleaner in your area. For a moderate price, they'll probably produce a far better end product that you might be able to produce at home.
Woah, was not expecting this in-depth answer!

I wasn't expecting regular washes, more like 5-6 times a year. I will keep that 3 wash recommendation in mind for my tailor.

Crocking did not cross my mind, and is important since I am getting the jacket in a lighter navy colour.

I have pressed a 5.5 oz cotton Safari jacket before to "good enough" results, but point duly noted. I'm definitely more hesitant about washing it myself now and am leaning towards taking it to a dry cleaner.

My concern is definitely shrinkage first and foremost, more than hand and look. One is definitely more permanent than the other.

Thank you for posting this.
 

Shirtmaven

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Woah, was not expecting this in-depth answer!

I wasn't expecting regular washes, more like 5-6 times a year. I will keep that 3 wash recommendation in mind for my tailor.

Crocking did not cross my mind, and is important since I am getting the jacket in a lighter navy colour.

I have pressed a 5.5 oz cotton Safari jacket before to "good enough" results, but point duly noted. I'm definitely more hesitant about washing it myself now and am leaning towards taking it to a dry cleaner.

My concern is definitely shrinkage first and foremost, more than hand and look. One is definitely more permanent than the other.

Thank you for posting this.
one of the mills i buy shirting linen from, claims only 2/3% shrinkage.
other linens can shrink as much as 5% if they hit a dryer.
I prewash 100% linen even for a safari jacket.
It softens up the linen. after that, I don't know what my customers do.
I will dry clean the linen shirt jacket i made recently.
 
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I wonder If we both got the same Safari linen jacket. My problem is that the jacket fits just fine new (never washed), but the sleeves are about an inch too long and a tad wide to my liking. I was wondering if I could just "dunk" the sleeves to the shoulder in warm water to see if they would shrink to my liking. But now I'm wondering if I might get a color change on the sleeves compared the the rest of the jacket.
 

Shirtmaven

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I wonder If we both got the same Safari linen jacket. My problem is that the jacket fits just fine new (never washed), but the sleeves are about an inch too long and a tad wide to my liking. I was wondering if I could just "dunk" the sleeves to the shoulder in warm water to see if they would shrink to my liking. But now I'm wondering if I might get a color change on the sleeves compared the the rest of the jacket.
just have the shirt altered and then dry clean as needed. if you are happy with the fit now, there is no way to know what will happen to the jacket if the fabric was not pre washed and dried.
 

GBR

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Get them shortened properly.
 

FlyingHorker

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I wonder If we both got the same Safari linen jacket. My problem is that the jacket fits just fine new (never washed), but the sleeves are about an inch too long and a tad wide to my liking. I was wondering if I could just "dunk" the sleeves to the shoulder in warm water to see if they would shrink to my liking. But now I'm wondering if I might get a color change on the sleeves compared the the rest of the jacket.
I would follow Shirtmaven's advice. Too risky to do that on a nice jacket.
 

goalaso

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Jumping onto the thread with a similar question to the OP, given the title. If this isn't appropriate, happy to start another, just say so.

https://corridornyc.com/products/open-weave-indigo-linen-overshirt

I have this shirt in small which fits loose but OK in the shoulders, very long (like 2 inches long) in the sleeves and an inch or two longer than I'd like in length overall. I've read the answers, and spoken to my tailor, so I understand that a cold wash and air day might result in 2-5% shrinkage, particularly in length, which I don't think will cut it.

My tailor recommended I wash it once first, then bring it to him and he can shorten the sleeves at the cuff. My 3 questions:
1) Given the *very* open weave, spongy nature of this linen, can I expect more than an average 2-5% shrinkage after a normal cold wash, air dry?
2) I've gotten no response from Corridor re: pre-washing, but the description says it was enzyme-washed and its incredible softness confirms this. Does anyone know what constitutes an "enzyme wash" and how that influences expected length shrinkage if at all?
3) Finally, if I do choose to wash this and take it to my tailor (rather than just return it), I can't imagine he will be able to maintain the placket if he reduces the length from the cuff end by >2 inches. It doesn't look like a formal placket that can be unpicked and then restitched. So my hunch is I'll end up paying more to do it from the shoulder end. In this case, will pre-washing this very indigo-dyed linen result in crocking at the edges of the seams there?

thanks all
 

Shirtmaven

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Jumping onto the thread with a similar question to the OP, given the title. If this isn't appropriate, happy to start another, just say so.

https://corridornyc.com/products/open-weave-indigo-linen-overshirt

I have this shirt in small which fits loose but OK in the shoulders, very long (like 2 inches long) in the sleeves and an inch or two longer than I'd like in length overall. I've read the answers, and spoken to my tailor, so I understand that a cold wash and air day might result in 2-5% shrinkage, particularly in length, which I don't think will cut it.

My tailor recommended I wash it once first, then bring it to him and he can shorten the sleeves at the cuff. My 3 questions:
1) Given the *very* open weave, spongy nature of this linen, can I expect more than an average 2-5% shrinkage after a normal cold wash, air dry?
2) I've gotten no response from Corridor re: pre-washing, but the description says it was enzyme-washed and its incredible softness confirms this. Does anyone know what constitutes an "enzyme wash" and how that influences expected length shrinkage if at all?
3) Finally, if I do choose to wash this and take it to my tailor (rather than just return it), I can't imagine he will be able to maintain the placket if he reduces the length from the cuff end by >2 inches. It doesn't look like a formal placket that can be unpicked and then restitched. So my hunch is I'll end up paying more to do it from the shoulder end. In this case, will pre-washing this very indigo-dyed linen result in crocking at the edges of the seams there?

thanks all
 

Shirtmaven

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It has been washed and dried. Don't expect anymore shrinkage.
There is no photo of the underside of the cuff so I don' know what has to be done.

You might spend a lot of money and not be happy
 

goalaso

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It has been washed and dried. Don't expect anymore shrinkage.
There is no photo of the underside of the cuff so I don' know what has to be done.

You might spend a lot of money and not be happy
Exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!
 

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