How much do you care about 100% wool?

[Loose On The Lead]

I want to get an idea of how members of SF would react to the situation I find myself in.

I've been looking to buy a loden coat, and it just so happened that I found myself in Princeton last Friday, home of the Landau store, which carries loden coats from Schneiders. I headed to the store with the intention of not buying a coat unless it was (1) 100% wool, (2) fully lined, (3) fairly long (I'm 6'4"), and (4) reasonably priced. Regarding (4)...I knew I wouldn't find any steals, but I can be hard to fit, so I'm willing to pay a brick-and-mortar "sale price" if the store has something that works for me.

I, my wife, and a friend all headed to the coat section of the store. Right off the top, I told the salesperson what my requirements were (well, 1-3, anyway). She called over another person--either a manager or another salesperson--to help us to judge fit, and we all ended up in a lively discussion of what was going to look good on me and what wasn't. After going through a couple of models and a bunch of different sizes and colors, we decided on a coat that fit and was a color I wanted (charcoal--would have been happy with navy, too). I was offered a price of $595, which I figured wasn't too far off what I'd pay at Loden-Plankl for the same coat. Plus, I didn't expect to be in Vienna anytime soon, so...what the heck. I bought the coat. We also picked up a couple pairs of shearling gloves for me and my wife, and she also got a pashmina shawl. I was happy.

Then I got home and something occurred to me. We checked the label on the coat and, darn it, the coat was only 75% wool. Even though I told the salesperson from the very beginning that I was looking for 100% wool, I don't believe there was any intent to deceive. We all just got so caught up in fit and color that we forgot about the composition of the fabric. So now I'm back in D.C., and I have this coat. It's the #2 coat on this page. Okay, it's 70% wool and 5% alpaca, but same basic diff as far as I know. If I decide to return it, I have to ship it back, which isn't a huge deal, but would cost me in postage, materials (box), and time.

So...if you were in my position, would you keep the coat or would you return it?

A couple of associated questions:

1. Is there an advantage to the cloth being 25% polyester that I'm not thinking of? All that comes to mind is wrinkle resistance, but I doubt that would have been an issue without the polyester.
2. Is the price still reasonable? The fact that the coat isn't 100% wool presumably lowers its value. On the other hand, there just aren't lots of stores selling good loden coats in the U.S., and I'm not going to travel solely to visit the few that do. Again, I just happened to be in Princeton, so I took advantage of that opportunity, but such opportunities will be rare. And like I said, I can be hard to fit, so shopping by mail can be both costly and a pain.

As an aside, I do have some concern about the coat's low armholes. Once again, though...there aren't tons of alternatives.

Thanks.

 

[emmanuel]

I cant bring myself to purchase something polyester unless it was completly neccesary for the function garment

 

[Bird's One View]

I would return it.

 

[Cary Grant]

Schneider's makes a very good product. Synthetics add strength, resilience, durability. Today's poly is not that of the 1970's leisure suit.

It's also keeping the price in the range you stated. I fell in love with a wool coat from Schneiders last season but just couldn't spot the $900 for it.

Love the coat? Keep it.

And I just had a thought- on some labels- that 25% not-wool may refer TO THE LINING. So you may have a wool coat with viscose or similar lining.

 

[Doc4]

Originally Posted by Loose On The Lead

... I, my wife, and a friend ...

"My wife, and friend and I ... "

If the coat looks good ... like a wool coat should ... and fits you in a stylish way, no one but you will know of the last 25%. Keep it if you like it, especially given the various problems you will have finding another in 100% wool.

... perhaps a call to the store to explain what happened and see if they sell a 100% wool version?

 

[Loose On The Lead]

Originally Posted by Cary Grant

Schneider's makes a very good product. Synthetics add strength, resilience, durability. Today's poly is not that of the 1970's leisure suit.
The coat in question doesn't appear to have a syntheticky sheen to it, so there's that. I just called the store for additional info, and they said they like the wool blend because the poly adds durability, as you suggest above.

It's also keeping the price in the range you stated. I fell in love with a wool coat from Schneiders last season but just couldn't spot the $900 for it.

Yeah, although the same coat in 100% wool--if it exists--probably costs $50-$75 more. That's just a guess, though.

Love the coat? Keep it.

I at least like it. I would probably prefer higher armholes, but they're made low for the purpose of layering. I don't know that I'll ever have to layer THAT much in D.C., but you never know.

And I just had a thought- on some labels- that 25% not-wool may refer TO THE LINING. So you may have a wool coat with viscose or similar lining.

Good thought, and it's what made me call the store just now.

But no, the 25% refers to the main fabric, not the lining.

 

[DocHolliday]

If you love the coat, keep it. I once fretted about such minor details, but no longer, and I'm happier for it. Everything we purchase falls somewhere along the quality continuum, and there's always something better. The question is whether you think the item represents good value for your money. If it meets that test, wear it and enjoy it.

 

[Loose On The Lead]

Originally Posted by Doc4

"My wife, and friend and I ... "

Yeah, that's what I had originally, but I didn't like it for some reason. Are you sure my wording was incorrect? I know your way is more conventional, but that doesn't make mine wrong.

If the coat looks good ... like a wool coat should ... and fits you in a stylish way, no one but you will know of the last 25%. Keep it if you like it, especially given the various problems you will have finding another in 100% wool.

You are probably right. I guess my main concern is about warmth. I have a 70/30 Gloverall duffle that has disappointed me a bit in its ability to keep me warm below 40 degrees F, but that may have less to do with the fabric blend than with unrealistic expectations on my part.

... perhaps a call to the store to explain what happened and see if they sell a 100% wool version?

They don't.

 

[Doc4]

Originally Posted by Loose On The Lead

I know your way is more conventional, but that doesn't make mine wrong.

That's what the guy who buttons up the bottom button on his suit jacket told me too ...

 

[sho'nuff]

i dont know, it should not make too much of a difference for the average person, but if i was going for a nice coat where i would be shelling out some money, i would want it as exacting to my specifications (as much as rtw can for me anyways) as possible.
im a little picky, so i do love wool coats, but if it is going to be a blend, i would prefer the other portion to be cotton at least. im not too fond of polyester. it's not flame-marsupialant, has a courser hand, etc, i m sure there are other negative aspects of it that i dont know about, but all in all it cheapens the coat by that much , whatever it is.
i ve noticed my wife's coats have a higher prevalence of polyester in her coats mixed in with wools than my (men's ) coats and in general. and from the same make , not like she buys cheap coats, but for example her marc jacobs peacoats compared, mine is 100% wool, while hers is 50% wool, 25% polyamide, 25% polyester .(dont know why they separate the polyester term from the polyamide i thought they were both the same)

also , low arm -holes kills it for me. that basically makes or breaks any coat or blazer for me, it is one of the basic foundations of fit for all i know.

 

[Irond Will]

Originally Posted by Loose On The Lead

You are probably right. I guess my main concern is about warmth. I have a 70/30 Gloverall duffle that has disappointed me a bit in its ability to keep me warm below 40 degrees F, but that may have less to do with the fabric blend than with unrealistic expectations on my part.

For what it's worth, pretty much all of the high-end survival gear that people wear in extreme cold appear to synthetics. Wool is fine hopping from building to building in DC, but if you're going to climb a mountain, you're going to be wrapped in stuff that does not occur in nature.

My understanding is that "synthetics" run the gamut from the absolutely useless for insulation (like acrylic) to the absolute best insulation. "Polyester" is, I guess, a kind of catch-all term for all synthetics and isn't especially informative.

 

[Loose On The Lead]

Well, it looks like I will keep the coat, since I'm wearing it today. My hand was forced somewhat by the weather (snow, to be followed by sleet and rain) and the discovery of a frayed sleeve on my previous overcoat. I did experiment with the loden coat in various ways before removing the tags. First off, I think it's the warmest coat I have. That's not saying a ton, since I don't own any really heavy outerwear, but it does suggest that the poly isn't hurting too much. Second, I walked around a bit, holding my right arm the way I usually do with my blindman's cane, and I didn't feel any undue pulling as a result of the low-ish armhole, so that's probably okay.

A couple other comments:

My mother knows little about men's clothing, and she has not seen the coat. However, we talked about it, and her theory is that what I'm saying is a low armhole is actually typical of a raglan sleeve, or at least that's been her experience with women's clothing. I have no idea. Does that sound right to anyone?

Also...I searched through the archives to find out how long the sleeves of an overcoat should be, and by what is apparently the usual standard, the sleeves on my new coat could be shortened a little. However, I don't think I'm going to have my tailor do anything with them. As I mentioned above, I carry a cane with my arm outstretched, which tends to pull that sleeve back off my hand. If I shorten the sleeve, I will come perilously close to having a gap between the sleeve and my glove. So in my case, I believe the standard doesn't apply. The point here is just to remind everyone not to judge others' choices rashly, because you might not realize what's driving them.

Thanks to everyone for the input.

 

[DocHolliday]

Don't worry so much about what other people might think. Seriously, you'll be happier for it.

 

[Loose On The Lead]

Originally Posted by DocHolliday

Don't worry so much about what other people might think. Seriously, you'll be happier for it.
I don't think you appreciate how fortunate you are to have taste in clothing. For those of us who don't (or can't), going by what others think is often the best option. You would not want to see how I'd dress if I ignored everyone else's opinion. Seriously!

That said, I understand your point, and as with much of what you write, Doc, I will take it to heart.

 

[erdawe]

Originally Posted by sho'nuff

.(dont know why they separate the polyester term from the polyamide i thought they were both the same)

polyamide = nylon