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How much can pants be taken in?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by merkur, Jun 14, 2008.

  1. merkur

    merkur Senior member

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  2. bluscuro

    bluscuro Active Member

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    When a trouser pattern is struck , carefull attention to balance is crucial. Basically, the waist and seat measures are divided by four and distributed evenly across the four parts ( Eight cut edges ) that make up the finished pair of trousers. When too much material is taken out of the back ( seat ) seam this balance is lost. You may find all or some of the following disturbances if the alteration is done in this way.
    1. Front crease falls to the outside of the knee rather than the centre. Naturally this also effects where the crease falls over the shoe.
    2. Twisting of the trouser legs.
    3. Side pockets seam to gape.
    4. Rear pockets appear much too close.

    In short all elegance and drape will be lost if more than 1.5" is taken in at the back seam.

    Hope this helps.
     
  3. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    The trousers would need to be recut; a relatively pricey and dicey alteration requiring the expertise of an above average tailor.
     
  4. merkur

    merkur Senior member

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  5. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    How much damage ($) roughly do you think we would be talking about?
    I would guesstimate $80+/-, depending on location and tailor's expertise.
     
  6. jeff in vancouver

    jeff in vancouver Well-Known Member

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    $80 seems about right for a recut. I had severl 4" recuts tried recently be a few tailors recently, the results were mixed and I am suit shopping now. Maybe just by one inexpensive suit and then go on a diet? If you have the will power you should be able to drop 20lbs in a month or so.
     
  7. merkur

    merkur Senior member

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  8. JayJay

    JayJay Senior member

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    The trousers would need to be recut; a relatively pricey and dicey alteration requiring the expertise of an above average tailor.
    This is my experience. It can be done with a successful outcome.
     
  9. Otter91

    Otter91 Senior member

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    I am having a pair of Ralph Lauren Purple Label Tuxedo pants taken from a 36 down to a 32/31" right now. My tailor said that is wouldn't be a problem at all, I'll keep you updated as I receive them back from the tailor. as for suits, I am a 40$ drop 8 or drop 9. I always just plan on having the pants taken in. I may be shopping at the wrong places, but I have not found many quality suit makers that produce separates. Then again, I am usually bargain hunting [​IMG]
     
  10. merkur

    merkur Senior member

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  11. Otter91

    Otter91 Senior member

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    Me 2! Be sure to post as soon as you get the results [​IMG]

    we'll do! I should be seeing them on or about the 24th
     
  12. SirSuturesALot

    SirSuturesALot Senior member

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    I am having a pair of Ralph Lauren Purple Label Tuxedo pants taken from a 36 down to a 32/31" right now. My tailor said that is wouldn't be a problem at all, I'll keep you updated as I receive them back from the tailor.

    as for suits, I am a 40$ drop 8 or drop 9. I always just plan on having the pants taken in. I may be shopping at the wrong places, but I have not found many quality suit makers that produce separates. Then again, I am usually bargain hunting [​IMG]


    Wow, that is a fairly hefty drop. Please let us know how it turns out!
     
  13. merkur

    merkur Senior member

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  14. Otter91

    Otter91 Senior member

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    Wait, do these pants have back pockets on both sides? [​IMG]
    yes they do. I think that they will be used in the process somehow. I think that i noted darts (if you can call them that)that will be allowing some of the room. My build provides some trouble for tailors and buying OTR pants as that I am quite athletic. Often, pants that fit me in the waist (Banana Republic 30s) don't fit me in the quadracept/uppper leg area. The good news is that I can have 32s tailored in at the waist to fit perfectly most of the times. This suit was not purchased for that reason however. I got a lucky and great deal on an RLPL tux from HoldFast here on the board. edt: sorry for the ramble
     
  15. Guy Smiley

    Guy Smiley Active Member

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    Would I be correct in assuming that most people with >6" drops, who don't go for bespoke/MTM, buy their suits as separates? What do they do if the suit they want is not available for purchase as separates?

    I'm a 40L, 32" and most RTW looks ridiculous on me, but I tried on a John Varvatos one day, and all his stuff fits me pretty well. God bless him. I thought I was gonna have to go the separates route...
     
  16. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    when trousers must be taken in a great deal a recut is in order.
    to understand this turn to ask andy. use the search function type in to alter trousers. scroll down to that title. it will tell you how it is done.
    dont forget that if the trousers are taken in that much the jacket must be taken in also.
     
  17. uluvbs

    uluvbs Senior member

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    So, consensus is that 1.5" is the max you can take them in without having them recut?

    Thank you.
     
  18. merkur

    merkur Senior member

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  19. uluvbs

    uluvbs Senior member

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  20. Otter91

    Otter91 Senior member

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    Do you mean that the jacket has to be recut or that it needs to have waist suppression? Can a jacket one size too big eg 44R be successfully recut to 42R or would it be easier to just do waist suppression? I'd be grateful if you could shed any light on this.

    not sure about the recutting of a jacket, but assuming that you bought two sizes too big (bought a 44 when you wear a 42) not only would the jacket need waist suppression, but the chest would be too big, the shoulders too big, the length longer etc.
     

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