How much can a tailor cleanup the back of a jacket?

[aravenel]

I just bought a nice Caruso suit, and while the fit in the shoulders and chest (and the front in general) is quite good, the back is just... Off. Too much fabric, and looks very unclean, particularly right behind/under the armscye.

My question is, can a tailor do much to cleanup the back of a jacket? Or should I return the suit and move on?

 

[patrickBOOTH]

It is probably very fixable. Post pictures though.

 

[aravenel]

Thanks Patrick, glad to hear this is likely fixable. Definitely going to get some pictures up tonight--at work at the moment.

 

[EzraPaul]

One of two ways, depending on the problem:

1) If it is truly just in the back and not into the shoulders or armholes at all, then it is relatively simple and inexpensive to just take the center seam in. Many tailors will do this when they shouldn't, however, so be cautious.

2) If there is fabric that can be pinched on the lower inside edge of the shoulder, than you should take sides in through armhole. This doesn't necessarily mean the shoulders are too big, it could also mean that you have proportionally broad shoulders compared to your chest in what I refer to as "T-Shaped" build.

As a side note, this is sometimes actually a shoulder slope problem. If you get lines running from the neck towards the armhole (or "holster straps"on the chest of T-shirts and polos), than you fall into this camp. If this is the case, it is sometimes best to pad the shoulders.

 

[aravenel]

Thanks Ezra... I actually think it's a combination of both. I do have somewhat wider shoulders than a standard drop 6, so that wouldn't surprise me too much.

 

[aravenel]

OK, pictures below. The waist needs some suppression, and I know the sleeves are too long--the suit is brand new, no tailoring done yet.

Thoughts?

 

[EzraPaul]

Originally Posted by aravenel

OK, pictures below. The waist needs some suppression, and I know the sleeves are too long--the suit is brand new, no tailoring done yet.

Thoughts?

You could go about it several different ways. Do take the waist in a touch. The center seam would clean it up, but probably not entirely. Probably good enough though. You also need to shorten the collar (roll below collar), which taking the center seam in would exaggerate. However, they can both be done at the same time. Taking in through the shoulders would best, but is costly and often botched.

 

[chet31]

You are right, front looks better than the back, and that is the important thing. Back looks OK too, except for maybe the arms. I have a couple of coats I have this problem with. Whenever you stand up, cup your hands backward, grab your sleeves, and give a quick yank. This has become a second-nature move for me, and solves many problems with arms and shoulders.

 

[EzraPaul]

Originally Posted by chet31

You are right, front looks better than the back, and that is the important thing. Back looks OK too, except for maybe the arms. I have a couple of coats I have this problem with. Whenever you stand up, cup your hands backward, grab your sleeves, and give a quick yank. This has become a second-nature move for me, and solves many problems with arms and shoulders.

Yeah that is because the sleeves pitch forward compared to your arms. Call me next time you're in DC and I'll make you a suit that addresses all of these things