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how much can a jacket normally be "let out"?

random512

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How much can a jacket normally be "let out"?
For example, if I unbuttoned a jacket and held the lapels apart from the top button, how far would I generally be able to hold the lapels apart as an equivalent to the final result of letting the jacket out? 2 inches? 3 inches?

Is there a general expected range for this? Does this range tend to differ based on custom vs OTR, price points, etc? What are the points in the jacket in which the extra fabric is stored? If I'm getting a jacket custom made, is there a way for me to request, say, 3 inches of let out room? Is that something that a factory can generally accommodate into it's measurements?

Reason I ask is I recently had a jacket custom made and requested it to be let out 1.5" from my previous jacket but instead it was made .5" tighter. So 3 inches of let out room would allow me to have my local tailor let out the jacket to what I originally requested as well as give me a small amount of additional margin. Does 3" seem like a reasonable amount of let out room to request for a custom jacket? Is this let out room more than average but within range of what a custom suit maker should be able to accommodate upon request?
 

daizawaguy

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Depends on how much cloth is at the seams on the inside. As its inside, an alteration tailor will undo the lining at the edges to take a look. But I'm guessing no more than maximum an inch at the back, and half an inch at both sides. But remember the stitching needs some room too, so but that down by a bit. You could possible feel around these areas (back seam, side seams) to see if you feel excess cloth. But 3"? I'm guessing not.
 

random512

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thanks @daizawaguy. is there any reason why a jacket could not be designed and constructed with the ability to be let out 3 inches, if that was an up-front design goal for the jacket?
 
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daizawaguy

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I guess there are two reasons there is not a lot of excess cloth - cost and balance. The first is that as most of the excess is hidden, its not considered functional. And the second is that the more the excess double folds, the more it influences the balance. I think there are no rules here, but definitely RTW has very little excess cloth, and any tailor I have met and asked to have more cloth (for the express purpose of being able to let it out, should the need arise), has always not really taken to my idea. Guess its a trick of the trade. Bit like a shoe maker and leather soles. Most don't recommend rubber soles for various reasons - but I believe its to decrease longevity and get more business!
 

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