How much are you willing to pay for cufflinks?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by lawnerd, Jul 10, 2011.

  1. Texasmade

    Texasmade Senior member

    Messages:
    3,980
    Likes Received:
    658
    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2008
    Location:
    Houston, TX
    Oddly enough, cufflinks are the one area where I still go cheap since I don't wear them that often. None of mine cost over $30 even though I'm perfectly comfortable spending $1000+ on shoes or a watch.
     
  2. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

    Messages:
    11,999
    Likes Received:
    571
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
    I am working with my jeweler to make me a custom pair of handmade cufflinks (made in NYC) that fit closely to the OP's description (except larger stones). The cost of materials and labor on such a pair is approximately $700 (modification of existing mold to make them suitable for cufflinks, materials, labor, gem setting, finishing, etc).

    Understand that most retailer's profit margins are 2x cost, so it'd be tough to get to the $250 price point. Robert Talbott has some cufflinks that might meet with the OP's ideas, and those retail close to or above $500 after taxes.

    That is the reason that we don't see such cufflinks sold by American retailers for $150 to $250.

    Any less than $450 is not realistic.
     
  3. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    68,895
    Likes Received:
    31,016
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    I figured such a broad inquiry would elicit varied responses. But I was just wondering because it seems there are few American retailers who offer quality and affordable double-sided cufflinks. Trianon and VCA make mighty fine-looking links, but $1,000-2,000+ is a whole other league. For $150-250, what is out there?

    plenty. i got a noice pair of bvlgaris for $170. go to a nice local jewelry store (read = not a crap chain mall store where you will overpay for shit goods) and haggle a bit. you will be surprised what you can easily get done.
     
  4. lawnerd

    lawnerd Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    52
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2010
    I am working with my jeweler to make me a custom pair of handmade cufflinks (made in NYC) that fit closely to the OP's description (except larger stones). The cost of materials and labor on such a pair is approximately $700 (modification of existing mold to make them suitable for cufflinks, materials, labor, gem setting, finishing, etc).

    Understand that most retailer's profit margins are 2x cost, so it'd be tough to get to the $250 price point. Robert Talbott has some cufflinks that might meet with the OP's ideas, and those retail close to or above $500 after taxes.

    That is the reason that we don't see such cufflinks sold by American retailers for $150 to $250.

    Any less than $450 is not realistic.



    I don't doubt a steep price for bespoke cufflinks. After all, yours are being made once and a lot of work is involved (sculpting, molding, casting, etc.). In fact, I'd say most of the cost is labor-related. Silver is relatively affordable, and depending on the stones used, they too can be affordable (especially considering jewelers have wholesale suppliers). That said, though, labor costs decline when the same mold is used to produce multiple pairs of the same style of cufflink. Thus, a $300 mold fee to sculpt and create a pair of cufflinks is very cheap when when a retailer orders 300 pairs cast from that mold. Perhaps $250 is ambitious, but I still don't understand why the cufflink market consists of one-sided cheap-looking silver links for $150 at one end, and $2,000+ for ultra-exclusive links at the other. (Note: I'm leaving out antique links, which I love, because new can be just as good)
     
  5. lawnerd

    lawnerd Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    52
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2010
    plenty. i got a noice pair of bvlgaris for $170. go to a nice local jewelry store (read = not a crap chain mall store where you will overpay for shit goods) and haggle a bit. you will be surprised what you can easily get done.

    Pics? I'm interested.
     
  6. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    68,895
    Likes Received:
    31,016
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    Pics? I'm interested.

    this is the only pic i have at hand right now, there are sterling silver.
    [​IMG]

    they make (or they did anyway, but i imagine they still do) all kinds of stuff with onyx and other colored semi precious stones. most in sterling retail in the $300+/- range but you can easily bargain that down. tiffany has similar stuff IIRC but they dont haggle for shit. good luck [​IMG]

    edit - just checked online. the selection is diferent than when i bought but have a gander if you like. scroll over for prices

    http://us.bulgari.com/productList.js...&viewMode=true
     
  7. Agatha Crusty

    Agatha Crusty Senior member

    Messages:
    166
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2009
    Location:
    Around
    I'd pay no more than 50 euros for a modern pair, but I'd go higher for a nice vintage pair. Not too high mind you, unless they were particularly stylish and unusual, then I'd pay say 100 euros.

    They're only for holding a cuff together and to be honest I don't dress with the thought in my mind that I may run into a cuff-link aficionado. How it looks is most important to me and no-one has to break the bank for that.

    Most of my double cuff shirts are buttoned fold-back cuffs, so it's not a problem I even run into that often.
     
  8. lawnerd

    lawnerd Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    52
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2010
    this is the only pic i have at hand right now, there are sterling silver. [​IMG]
    Nice, but not exactly what I had in mind. When you mentioned Bvlgari, I figured there would be branding of sorts on them. Not really into brands or designers for that matter. Much more interested in quality, double-faced cufflinks that are unique but understated. Thanks for the suggestion though!
     
  9. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    68,895
    Likes Received:
    31,016
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    Nice, but not exactly what I had in mind. When you mentioned Bvlgari, I figured there would be branding of sorts on them. Not really into brands or designers for that matter. Much more interested in quality, double-faced cufflinks that are unique but understated.

    Thanks for the suggestion though!


    hey, to each their own. check out turnbull and asser. they have some pretty, different colored cufflinks. no branding. [​IMG]

    http://store.turnbullandasser.co.uk/..._All_Cufflinks

    still not exactly what youre looking for but worth a gander.
     
  10. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

    Messages:
    11,999
    Likes Received:
    571
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
    I don't doubt a steep price for bespoke cufflinks. After all, yours are being made once and a lot of work is involved (sculpting, molding, casting, etc.). In fact, I'd say most of the cost is labor-related. Silver is relatively affordable, and depending on the stones used, they too can be affordable (especially considering jewelers have wholesale suppliers). That said, though, labor costs decline when the same mold is used to produce multiple pairs of the same style of cufflink. Thus, a $300 mold fee to sculpt and create a pair of cufflinks is very cheap when when a retailer orders 300 pairs cast from that mold. Perhaps $250 is ambitious, but I still don't understand why the cufflink market consists of one-sided cheap-looking silver links for $150 at one end, and $2,000+ for ultra-exclusive links at the other. (Note: I'm leaving out antique links, which I love, because new can be just as good)

    again, that $700 is an estimate for the labour, materials, etc. The actual "price the links are sold for" will be higher.

    Yes, the pricing for mass produced cufflinks will be better than that, but the workmanship might be worse, etc. You will be hard pressed to find quality handmade in America cufflinks for less than $600, price of sale.
     
  11. lawnerd

    lawnerd Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    52
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2010
    again, that $700 is an estimate for the labour, materials, etc. The actual "price the links are sold for" will be higher.

    Yes, the pricing for mass produced cufflinks will be better than that, but the workmanship might be worse, etc. You will be hard pressed to find quality handmade in America cufflinks for less than $600, price of sale.


    Would love to see when they're finished!
     
  12. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

    Messages:
    11,999
    Likes Received:
    571
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
  13. lawnerd

    lawnerd Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    52
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2010
  14. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

    Messages:
    11,999
    Likes Received:
    571
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
  15. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

    Messages:
    11,999
    Likes Received:
    571
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
    Non-swivelback cufflinks, made in NYC.

    18kt YG crown with ~36 diamonds per crown

    matching London Blue topaz main stones

    .925 Sterling Silver Rhodium Plated Body

    Ruby "lagniappe" cabachon on back
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by