How many Sports Coats?

[CMJ]

Great post and comments.

 

[Hadleigh]

Here in the UK, sports coats, or sports jackets as they tend to be called, are rarely worn for business use. The Italians have perfected the use of tailored sports coats for business. Here, most people wear either a suit or dress in an assortment of casual clothing. My own preference is a three-piece bespoke suit for business, with a selection for each season. 10 to 12 ounce for summer, 15 to 16 ounce for spring/autumn and 18 to 20 ounce for winter. I have seven sports coats in, tweed, worsted, or linen. Another oddity is that plain sports coats tend to be called a blazer, whether or not they have metal buttons or a badge on the breast pocket.

 

[pasadena man]

I think Luciano Barbera once said that if you wanted to dress well, start by buying 3-5 sports coats that you really liked, and build the rest of your wardrobe around them.

 

[Captain O]

Let them eat cake. Dress like a man, not like a little boy. You're an adult. They are in a perpetual state of "arrested development". The men that continue to dress as they did in grammar school can live like that as much as they want.

I went to Great Clips yesterday. As I waited, one of the hair stylists complimented my sports jacket, slacks, 1956 Champ fedora, and a white shirt. She also commented that my style was welcome by her sense of deportment. I told her "this style is coming back" and it is worn by men that really care about how their appearance.

What a concept!

 

[SmoothLefty]

How many do I need? Two, I suppose. A navy blazer and a warm-weather sport coat.

Current closet...

- Navy blazer
- Grey tweed herringbone
- Brown tweed herringbone
- Brown tweed glen plaid
- Tan corduroy
- Seersucker
- Madras

...all are vintage Brooks Brothers with the classic Ivy details. I'd like to add one or two "fun" tweed patterns.

 

[RSS]

Here in the UK, sports coats, or sports jackets as they tend to be called, are rarely worn for business use.

Back in the 80's when Colin Harvey was my cutter, were I to refer to my coat a jacket -- and I sometimes did -- I would be corrected: "Coat, Sir. Coat." The times, they have changed.

 

[dauster]

I went to Great Clips yesterday. As I waited, one of the hair stylists complimented my sports jacket, slacks, 1956 Champ fedora, and a white shirt. She also commented that my style was welcome by her sense of deportment. I told her "this style is coming back" and it is worn by men that really care about how their appearance.

What a concept!

lol always love people that go to great clips wear a fedora hat like the Great Gatsby. the internet remains undefeated.

 

[Captain O]

lol always love people that go to great clips wear a fedora hat like the Great Gatsby. the internet remains undefeated.

Sadly, most of the people that go there dress in shorts and baseball caps. (There goes your premise).

 

[dieworkwear]

Back in the 80's when Colin Harvey was my cutter, were I to refer to my coat a jacket -- and I sometimes did -- I would be corrected: "Coat, Sir. Coat." The times, they have changed.

That's very cool that Harvey was your cutter. I assume he drafted your original pattern?

I've heard some great stories about Harvey through Edwin at Steed and Bruce Boyer. Bruce described Harvey to me as the most elegant man he's known.

Curious, do you have any other good Harvey stories from your interactions with him?

Some photos you might enjoy. I think the first one is somewhat widely circulated by now. The third one is of Harvey with a young John Hitchcock.

 

[schraiber]

I basically only wear a sport jacket ~once a week, and it's almost always just for fun, as I work in biotech, which is very casual in the work place. I actually don't mind not needing to wear one to work, it makes it so that dressing nice is something I do for myself, not for my job.

That being said, I own 2 sport jackets right now, and I find myself wanting more. Oddly, wearing it irregularly almost makes me want more variety than if I wore it every day: it's somehow more noticeable that I wear the same jacket 2 date nights in a row, you know?

"Luckily" for me, neither of the ones I have fit perfectly, as I seem to have somewhat strange proportions and have a long torso or long pelvis or something, so jackets are often too short despite me not being very tall (5'11'' on a good day). So I have an excuse to order some more jackets and try to find a brand that fits me right

 

[dauster]

Sadly, most of the people that go there dress in shorts and baseball caps. (There goes your premise).

I know I go there myself but mostly in sweatpants and basketball shorts. that's why I thought it was funny but more power to you rocking the fedora at great clips.

 

[Captain O]

I know I go there myself but mostly in sweatpants and basketball shorts. that's why I thought it was funny but more power to you rocking the fedora at great clips.

I dress well whenever I leave the house. This is the "brand" I prefer. IMHO, the ultra-casual look is vastly overrated. Friends don't encourage friends to dress as if they're still in grammar school.

 

[RSS]

That's very cool that Harvey was your cutter. I assume he drafted your original pattern?

I've heard some great stories about Harvey through Edwin at Steed and Bruce Boyer. Bruce described Harvey to me as the most elegant man he's known.

Curious, do you have any other good Harvey stories from your interactions with him?

He did draft my original pattern. And he was indeed a very elegant man. I remember once seeing him walking down 5th Avenue on an A&S visit to New York. What I remember most is he was showing a LOT of shirt cuff. They say that Anderson & Sheppard is famous for not drawing attention ... but he got my attention. He was with another A&S regular of the time (late 70's early 80's) ... about the same age ... nice looking fellow ... had a habit of calling me by my last name ... but I'm drawing a blank ... maybe Halsey? The two of them together were quite something. They were simultaneously completely proper yet peacocks of a sort.

About 10 years ago (+/-) I visited with Mr. Harvey's brother. I'm thinking his name is John. He is, I believe, associated with Scabal on Savile Row. I could be mistaken but I'm thinking that's it. His brother seemed horrified to see me in Richard Anderson. I was hoping to find Colin's twin ... but he is a very different man. Just didn't have the same personality or sense of humor.

Another story that I think I told long ago: I asked Mr. Harvey to make me a black suit that would be appropriate for funerals. He shot back "Charcoal gray." I repeated black for a funeral. He responded "Charcoal grey it is." Later in private he confided "A gentleman does not wear black."

I wish I had written more down. I just expected him to be with us forever. Hell, I was 20-something and knew nothing.

When I look back, I realize my father's generation did not make friends with their tailors. They were dressed by them and that was it. I do want to be friends. I like them. I consider them to be a friend. Now I am NOT so into my clothing that I want to know all the detailing of tailoring, shirt making, etc. ... as so many here on SF seem to want. That's all well and good ... I only wanted to know enough that it would allow a friendship. I could talk men's clothing and style with them ... but they always knew more ... they were the experts ... and I'd defer to them to give me what I should be wearing.

That probably means I was never destined to be a great dresser ... but I dress well enough ... and that is just fine for me.

 

[dieworkwear]

He did draft my original pattern. And he was indeed a very elegant man. I remember once seeing him walking down 5th Avenue on an A&S visit to New York. What I remember most is he was showing a LOT of shirt cuff. They say that Anderson & Sheppard is famous for not drawing attention ... but he got my attention. He was with another A&S regular of the time (late 70's early 80's) ... about the same age ... nice looking fellow ... had a habit of calling me by my last name ... but I'm drawing a blank ... maybe Halsey? The two of them together were quite something. They were simultaneously completely proper yet peacocks of a sort.

About 10 years ago (+/-) I visited with Mr. Harvey's brother. I'm thinking his name is John. He is, I believe, associated with Scabal on Savile Row. I could be mistaken but I'm thinking that's it. His brother seemed horrified to see me in Richard Anderson. I was hoping to find Colin's twin ... but he is a very different man. Just didn't have the same personality or sense of humor.

Another story that I think I told long ago: I asked Mr. Harvey to make me a black suit that would be appropriate for funerals. He shot back "Charcoal gray." I repeated black for a funeral. He responded "Charcoal grey it is." Later in private he confided "A gentleman does not wear black."

I wish I had written more down. I just expected him to be with us forever. Hell, I was 20-something and knew nothing.

When I look back, I realize my father's generation did not make friends with their tailors. They were dressed by them and that was it. I did want to be friends. I like them. I consider them to be a friend. Now I am NOT so into my clothing that I want to know all the detailing of tailoring, shirt making, etc. ... as so many here on SF seem to want. That's all well and good ... I only wanted to know enough that it would allow a friendship. I could talk men's clothing and style with them ... but they always knew more ... they were the experts ... and I'd defer to them to give me what I should be wearing.

That probably means I was never destined to be a great dresser ... but I dress well enough ... and that is just fine for me.

Maybe Norman Halsey? He was MD during the time Harvey was the cutter. Photos of Halsey:

That's an interesting point about relationships with tailors and shoemakers. I've heard from tailors about how customers will come in with very specific details and requests nowadays, often informed by things they've read online. Some will come in with photos they found on the internet and want such-and-such thing recreated. One customer wasn't satisfied with his pants and asked the tailor to walk behind him while he went around the block, and film him with his iPhone, so they could later review the footage together in the shop. He wanted to see how the trousers "swung." Thought that was hilarious, although I felt bad for the tailor. I think the internet has changed the market -- there are some people who still just go into these shops to buy clothes, but also a market of clothing enthusiasts, which comes with its own pros and cons.

I get the impression that bespoke tailoring shops and shoemakers in the 1970s through '90s were much more reliable. You could rely on a company's reputation. Everything I've seen made by the "bigger names" during that period looks fantastic. Also the early 2000s. But then five years ago, I went to some of these places to commission some things and was a bit disappointed in the outcomes. I don't know if something has changed in the last five or ten years. I've heard complaints from people working on SR that soaring rents are making it difficult to make a living. More and more companies have shifted to RTW. Supposedly some places are struggling to find skilled makers. I feel like I may have missed out on the heyday of some of these great companies.

A short story about Norman Halsey by Graydon Carter:

“The master of this domain was Mr. Norman Halsey. He was a man of uncommon good looks, and with his brushed-back silver hair and aquiline nose, he looked a bit like that British actor Ian Richardson. Mr. Halsey was also as beautifully dressed as any man you are going to find on this earth. From the head, his line followed down his waistcoat to a slim waist, long legs, and perfect, thin black-leather shoes. If I had to guess, I would say they were made by Cleverley. He often had a watch chain crossing from pocket to pocket on his waistcoat. A few years after we had gotten to know each other, I suggested that he call me Graydon rather than ‘Mr. Carter.’ ‘Of course, Mr. Carter,’ he replied. On occasion, I would try to get him to make something outside the mould, something a bit dramatic, to which he would say ‘A most daring idea, sir’ and the plan would be quietly dropped. During one fitting, when I felt I had put on a bit of weight, I asked Mr. Halsey if he could cut it so the extra pounds wouldn’t show. ‘We’re only tailors, sir,’ he replied politely, but firmly.”

 

[RSS]

Maybe Norman Halsey? He was MD during the time Harvey was the cutter. Photos of Halsey:

It was indeed.

I get the impression that bespoke tailoring shops and shoemakers in the 1970s through '90s were much more reliable. You could rely on a company's reputation. Everything I've seen made by the "bigger names" during that period looks fantastic. Also the early 2000s. But then five years ago, I went to some of these places to commission some things and was a bit disappointed in the outcomes. I don't know if something has changed in the last five or ten years. I've heard complaints from people working on SR that soaring rents are making it difficult to make a living. More and more companies have shifted to RTW. Supposedly some places are struggling to find skilled makers. I feel like I may have missed out on the heyday of some of these great companies.

I was talking to one of the better MD's on the row about 10 years back and threw out the name of a famous tailoring firm. He responded "Very sad. They have no talent remaining."

A short story about Norman Halsey by Graydon Carter:

I believe every word related. I can hear Mr. Halsey now.

Mr. Halsey never called me by Mr. ... only by my last name. It seemed very like high school to me ... a teacher speaking to a student ... but it never bothered me. Perhaps he did it because I was relatively young in those days. When I met him I was in my late 20's. I remember asking him to use my first name, but he continued to call me by my last name (never a Mr.). In some odd way it made me feel closer. Also, I once asked that they not add "esq." to my name. They NEVER stopped. Makes me laugh now.

I switched to Huntsman after Mr. Harvey's death. It was a big switch in style. I ended up wearing Huntsman for work and A&S in my personal life. But I digress. When Brian & Richard left, I soon moved over to Richard Anderson. But in the 00's I went back to A&S for a couple of things. I was stunned when Mr. Hitchcock offered to make a one button coat in a house tweed (brown windowpane on oatmeal ground) for me. I don't know if the "Old" Anderson & Sheppard would have done that. They certainly NEVER mentioned it. I was wearing that coat just this week.

I also recall being chastised when I went back for a fitting. Someone from a these pages had come in and told them I said it was okay to photo my in-progress clothing. Mr. Hitchcock did not like that ... said it could ruin them. I don't recall giving permission, but I did get a bit of a chewing out. I let them know I had given no such permission. One of them then suggested I stop frequenting public forums. After I took delivery I never went back.

__

Many professions and trades have changed over the years. I know my field (architecture) has. I'm so glad to have retired. I don't like it much these days.