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How many Santoni lines?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mussel, Jun 14, 2005.

  1. mussel

    mussel Senior member

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    The "fatte a mano" line I saw at their store are wonderful, beautiful finishing and shape, excellent craftmanship. I assume "fatte a mano" is the top of the line?

    But some Santonis I saw posted on eBay are god awful ugly and some I saw at department stores are ok, nothing special, kind of blah.

    So how many different levels of Santoni are there? And how about their construction?
     


  2. norcaltransplant

    norcaltransplant Senior member

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    Tough call, here's an abbreviated posted (from top-of-the-line to bottom): - Santoni "Signature" or "Select": I really need to get confirmation on this one. Almost a completely handmade shoe based on my quick observations. Quite a bit of detailing and nice finishing, close to or on par with Kiton and Lattanzi at about 2/3rd the price. - Santoni "Fatte a Mano," Tan Sock: Priced around $800-1200. Lots of handwork, usually goodyear welted. The uppers are made from nice calfskin while the anitquing ranges from non-existent to superlative. Much cheaper in Europe according to Roy. - Santoni "Fatte a Man," Orange Sock: Around $600-800 US, can be had on sale in Europe for $200-250. Mostly Blake constructed, nice uppers, more fashion forward styling. I rank these similarly to mid-range Mantellassi which go for about $500. The price difference in the US can be attributed to the wider distribution of Santoni, and their slightly better finishing. - Santoni "Goodyear" : Standard range Santonis, but constructed with a goodyear welt. These can be found at Nordstrom's--their top of the line shoe. - Santoni : Written in horizontal script across the sock liner. Exclusively blake construction, clean looking shoe. Decent uppers. A tad better than similarly priced offerings from companies like Ferragamo and Magli. - Santoni "Nuvola" : These maybe exclusive to the US, but Nuvola is Santonis comfort line. AKA Rubber soles. They feel nice, but definitely are a cheaper cousin to the mainline, and a removed family member from the start of this list. - * Santoni Moccasins/Loafers: Another provence of the US market. A soft, pliable loafer that retails for around $300. Comfortable, no arch support, and probably designed to be disposable after 2-3 yers use.
     


  3. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Great precis Norcal. Just a few minor additons:
    Santoni's Limited Editions: Outrageously priced, top of the 'line' shoes... mostly Blake. Priced so high becaue they use a lot of exotics and weird finishing... Naturlaut has seen more than I have probably.

    Santoni's Tan socked with serrated edge "fatte a mano" are mostly Norvogese, reverse welted, or Bentivegna.  Mostly hand made.

    Below that is the orange socked "Fatte a mano" which is mostly blake.
     


  4. von Rothbart

    von Rothbart Senior member

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    I was going to ask the same question. This is very helpful.

    I am curious why they'd use a lesser construction, Blake, instead of Goodyear in their most expensive line.
     


  5. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Santoni's Limited Editions: Outrageously priced, top of the 'line' shoes... mostly Blake.
    I am curious why they'd use a lesser construction, Blake, instead of Goodyear in their most expensive line.
    OH, some of them are norvogese... but most are blake lasted to get that extra special long snount.. [​IMG]
     


  6. von Rothbart

    von Rothbart Senior member

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    They can't use Goodyear to get that extra long snout?
     


  7. mussel

    mussel Senior member

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    How can I tell Fatte a Mano Tan sock from Orange sock? Without me telling you the price can you tell which of the following is Tan sock or Orange sock or just regular "Goodyear"? They are all Goodyear welt with "Fatte a Mano" inscribed in the insole: [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     


  8. jtw3036

    jtw3036 Well-Known Member

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    They are all Goodyear, and all Tan sock (The inside lining is tan)
     


  9. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Agreed, those are all 'tan' socked 'fatte a mano'. However, there is still a line above that, and the sock has serrated edges. Those are usually Novogese/Bentivegna constructed. Here is a 'orange' socked version (which are usually blake): [​IMG]
     


  10. jtw3036

    jtw3036 Well-Known Member

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    However, there is still a line above that, and the sock has serrated edges. Those are usually Novogese/Bentivegna constructed. What would current retail be on these? Santoni
     


  11. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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  12. von Rothbart

    von Rothbart Senior member

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    Since it's Goodyear welt, I'd say around $800. The Tan socked Fatte a Mano with Norvegese welt I saw at the Madison Ave. store retails $1200-1295. The above 3 shoes are beautiful. I especially love the middle one, wholecut with medallion. Are all three made from the same last?
     


  13. Kent Wang

    Kent Wang Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Quite remarkable how much this looks like woodgrain.
     


  14. jtw3036

    jtw3036 Well-Known Member

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    The Tan socked Fatte a Mano with Norvegese welt I saw at the Madison Ave. store retails $1200-1295.
     


  15. Urban Warrior

    Urban Warrior Senior member

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    Hard to tell from the photo but this pair of Fatte a Mano's I bought last year have the serrations JTW has posted about. I had never noticed them before, also tan socked. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] Any idea as to where they might fall in the Fatte a Mano line? I was told they were Bentivenga welted but I don't really know how to tell lol... Paid $249 for them back when Santoni had a "true" sample sale and not a sham... Santoni's salesman said they cost about $1,200 normally but I have to learn they are not known for being honest [​IMG] Interesting thread I might add...
     


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