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How long should overcoats be?

noobanker

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I just bought a single breasted, peak lapel Kiton overcoat that is fairly lightweight and casual (leather details on the collar, a zipper pocket on the exterior and two flap pockets, patch on the elbow, herringbone)

it’s a nice coat as one expects from Kiton but unfortunately it’s slightly above the knee.

how long should an overcoat be?
Is there any use for a casual coat that is above the knee?
 

dieworkwear

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It depends on the style.

From what you described, a little above the knee sounds like a good length for that style, but it's hard to say without seeing a photo of you in the coat.

Best way is to just put on the coat and see how you look. Think about the total look and don't focus on just length.
 

Ich_Dien

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The style you describe honestly sounds much more casual which most definitely should be above the knee...
 

noobanker

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It depends on the style.

From what you described, a little above the knee sounds like a good length for that style, but it's hard to say without seeing a photo of you in the coat.

Best way is to just put on the coat and see how you look. Think about the total look and don't focus on just length.
yeah I think it looks kind of awkward, sadly.
Could’ve been a great deal, but I’ll have to return
 

FlyingHorker

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Overcoat length isn't as closely of a set "rule" like suit jackets and SCs due to the closed quarters IMO.

I've a DB polo coat that hits just above my knee. It works, but isn't preferred for me. I'd like it to be a solid 6" longer and below knee.
 

JJ Katz

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It might be worth mentioning that, arguably as part of the long-lasting (but now gradually fading) trend for shorter/tighter tailored garments (shorter jackets, low-rise/high-water trousers, etc.) RTW coats in most styles have become significantly shorter, even relatively to the tendency in the 2nd half of the 20th C. for shorter overcoats (in any style).

Coats that used to end at the upper thigh like pea coats and barbours seems to end just below the crotch; lower-thigh coats like coverts and car coats now end at the upper thigh, etc.

One can, of course, still find more 'classically' styled ones but it's very possible to get a shot one which, among other things, obviously provides less warmth.

An example of a coat that seems to me like an over-long jacket, rather than a coat...

TS00.jpg
 

noobanker

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It might be worth mentioning that, arguably as part of the long-lasting (but now gradually fading) trend for shorter/tighter tailored garments (shorter jackets, low-rise/high-water trousers, etc.) RTW coats in most styles have become significantly shorter, even relatively to the tendency in the 2nd half of the 20th C. for shorter overcoats (in any style).

Coats that used to end at the upper thigh like pea coats and barbours seems to end just below the crotch; lower-thigh coats like coverts and car coats now end at the upper thigh, etc.

One can, of course, still find more 'classically' styled ones but it's very possible to get a shot one which, among other things, obviously provides less warmth.

An example of a coat that seems to me like an over-long jacket, rather than a coat...

View attachment 1482940
Yes, this is probably the length of the Kiton coat I got.

I will be returning.
 

Despos

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Different topcoat styles are more effective or better proportioned at different lengths. The one pictured was once tagged as a “car coat”.
If you make a trim fitting coat to mid calf length if may look odd.
Some clients like above the knee because it doesn’t get in the way while walking and moving around. Some like maximum length to protect trousers from bad weather or for extra insulation and warmth.
The length should make sense with the styling and cut of the coat. Proportions and balance
 
Last edited:

Nobilis Animus

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I don't really call something an overcoat unless it hits the knee or lower. The one mid-thigh coat I own that I'd still consider warm at that length is a shearling.

The shorter coats get in the way less and are easier to wear - the longer ones protect your clothing and are more dramatic with their drape and whooshing coattails. Choose wisely.
 

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