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How long is too long in a suit jacket/blazer?

mdg137

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The recent post about a new jacket and length alteration got me thinking--

I am essentially a 38s, but built a little oddly-- at 5'5"-- ideally, a length of about 28 (bottom of collar to hem) would be about right for me, but most OTR come in at about 29, or 29.25 (ish).

29 comes a bit below my butt, and about to the tip of my thumb, rather than the first knuckle.

I generally have my suits altered to show around 1/2 inch of cuff, I favor substantial waist suppression, etc. My jackets end up very fitted, and I am fairly pleased-- however, when I consider having that extra inch or so shortened on the jacket, to my eyes it throws off the look and balance of the jacket.

Would you rather have the extra inch or inch and a half in length, or have a jacket that is visibly (to your own eye) out of balance?
 

Threadbearer

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Originally Posted by mdg137
Would you rather have the extra inch or inch and a half in length, or have a jacket that is visibly (to your own eye) out of balance?
Great question. I'm about to find out for myself, as I just took a couple of sport coats to my tailor to have them shortened. I'll let you know what I think when I get them back next week. I'm only having them taken up about half an inch, though; not an inch-and-a-half, as you're considering.
 

SK8

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I had a suit jacket shorten 3/4 of an inch and the end result was a jacket that was out of balance. The button stance was off as well as the pockets. I ended up giving the suit to the Goodwill. I would suggest trying to find a brand that makes a little shorter jacket. I have a 38R Caruso and the length is about 29.5, which is about an inch shorter than most 38R. I also have a RL-Blue Label blazer and it's pretty short compared to most.
 

RedLetterDay

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I think you should try to find a brand that is perhaps a little shorter like SK8 mentioned. At your height (similar for me, I'm 5'7"), having a jacket that is too long looks very awkward. At the same time though it isn't just a matter of shortening the jacket because like you mentioned, it typically throws off the balance.

If I had to choose though, I personally would rather have the jacket slightly shorter even if the balance is thrown off a little. Most people I think would be much more quick to notice the length being too long than the issue of balance.
 

Viktri

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Originally Posted by mdg137
The recent post about a new jacket and length alteration got me thinking--

I am essentially a 38s, but built a little oddly-- at 5'5"-- ideally, a length of about 28 (bottom of collar to hem) would be about right for me, but most OTR come in at about 29, or 29.25 (ish).

29 comes a bit below my butt, and about to the tip of my thumb, rather than the first knuckle.

I generally have my suits altered to show around 1/2 inch of cuff, I favor substantial waist suppression, etc. My jackets end up very fitted, and I am fairly pleased-- however, when I consider having that extra inch or so shortened on the jacket, to my eyes it throws off the look and balance of the jacket.

Would you rather have the extra inch or inch and a half in length, or have a jacket that is visibly (to your own eye) out of balance?


I like my suit jackets 27 inches starting below the collar, same height.
 

voxsartoria

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The length of a jacket body has no relationship to where you sleeve terminates except in the grossest sense. You could be an orangutan or a T-rex.

Ignoring certain contemporary designers who do short jackets on purpose, the length of your jacket is ideally established by what covers your ass but what also allows for an elegant looking buttoning point on the waist. That, in turn, is related to the proportions of your torso to your legs and where your natural waist falls. Except in fortunate cases, these parameters can only ideally be amalgamated by an expert bespoke tailor.

In RTW, you simply have to try on many different cuts until you get close...when you do, and if it is a style you like, you have found your brand (at least, until it changes its designs.)


- B
 

gnatty8

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I believe, for these reasons, the best choices for both the orangutan and the t-rex, would be bespoke.
 

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